Hello everyone, I'm new to the classic car scene and need some help. I have wanted a 1966 Mustang for a while, but don't know where to start. I was told I have to buy one with a V8 engine, but is that really the case? I want to use this car a starting point to learn about and enjoy the ride; not necessarily driving on a track and racing it. I was looking at some fastbacks, but they are $20,000 more than a coupe. Bottom line is I want to buy my first Mustang, but need help with what the best choice would be for the first time around. Any insight would be great. One last factor is I'm starting with $10,000 as my limit.
Do a lot of searching. I just bought a 66 fastback for not that much above your $10,000 and it's in great shape. A little work and money and she'll be top. Coupes/notchbacks will be a lot cheaper than a fastback just b/c of they are more common. 67-69's are pretty easy to find especially and they are slightly safer with more padding and collapsable steering wheel.
Get the VIN from the seller and check it against data on the net to see what kind of engine/tranny combo and other stuff (warranty code too). Some combos are rare while others are not. A stang with a v8 will cost a little more than one with the inline 6 just b/c ppl want the v8. The 2 and 4 barrel 289 engines are very good engines with a lot of potential. With that amount you have in mind, you could find a very nice coupe to be your first project or even maybe some other trims. Look around and hit up ebay to see what these cars are going for.
PS: Maybe you'll find some "t-5's" since you're in Germany...
__________________
*1998 Ford Contour SVT* EH 2.5L Duratec v6
Stock as can be, just trying to reverse the damage the previous owner caused.
Makes, sense. Ok two part question. What would you say is the biggest difference in body types (1967 -69), and are any of the models known for better reliability than the others?
I have found a few Mustangs out here, but no T-5, they have all been brought in from the states... Plus the dollar to Euro rate is terrible!
Ok, I know this is a fish question, but what is the big deal with the fastback vs. the coupe? I know that the production ratio was different, but what else?
Ok, I know this is a fish question, but what is the big deal with the fastback vs. the coupe? I know that the production ratio was different, but what else?
Hi Still,
Welcome to AFM, you'll find most anything you need to know about Mustangs here (and then some).
Everyone has his/her preference when it comes to coupe vs fastback. The fastback is more desireable because, in my opinion, they're more sporty looking and have more of a muscle car look. I own both a coupe and a fastback and I like each one equally in it's own way. When I drive either one it draws attention and I have fun with both.
Wally got a steal on his fastback and you don't find many deals like that just down the street and you WON'T find one on Ebay. For those you have to sneak into your elderly neighbors' barn in the middle of the night and search for one. Anyone who knows Mustangs is NOT going to let his car "dance off the driveway" so to speak.
Also consider shipping charges if you plan to buy your car from the states. Shipping costs can be mucho expensivo so think about that when you look in your wallet to buy.
I picked up my GT coupe for $12.5 which is about the going rate but you can find a coupe cheaper if you look on Ebay. I see them all the time.
In any case keep looking and best of luck to you. You've definitely come to the right place for help and advice (and plenty of opinions too ) !
Thanks for the info, I have my pen and paper out while I learn from you guys.
I have family looking at a 1966 coupe for me now. Here are the specs:
1966 Ford : Mustang 1966 FORD MUSTANG.-
Miles: 62540
Body Type: Coupe
Transmission: Automatic
Engine: 6
Interior: Black
Warranty: No
Year: 1966
Title: Clear
VIN Number: 6f07t370521
Condition: Used
Exterior: Red
Fuel Type: Gasoline
Inspection: --
Options CD Player Vehicle Description 1966 FORD MUSTANG COUPE. Total engine rebuilt (3/07). 200 - 6 cylinder engine, new (e-tron) electronic ignition,rebuilt holley carburator,new starter, alternator,fuel pump,solenoid. wires & plugs,new belts, master cylinder,brakes and gas tank. Interior: Pony seats,new headliner,dash pad,new carpet, windshield, original ford steering wheel ,am-fm C.D. radio. All bulbs in dash replaced and all guages in dash work. Exterior: Painted (05/06) 2000 ford performance red,new front and rear bumpers with new brackets, new rocker panels,fender and hood emblems, new side mirror ,new floor pans,new hood and trunk rubber , new tail lights ,headlights and lenses,new tires and air shocks.This is a southern car,the body, frame and shock towers are solid.Previous seller told me this was the numbers matching motor to this car( never verified info ) on motor.Motor runs better than new. Equipment listing:200-1V engine,automatic transmission, drum brakes .
Welcome to AFM, you'll find most anything you need to know about Mustangs here (and then some).
Everyone has his/her preference when it comes to coupe vs fastback. The fastback is more desireable because, in my opinion, they're more sporty looking and have more of a muscle car look. I own both a coupe and a fastback and I like each one equally in it's own way. When I drive either one it draws attention and I have fun with both.
Wally got a steal on his fastback and you don't find many deals like that just down the street and you WON'T find one on Ebay. For those you have to sneak into your elderly neighbors' barn in the middle of the night and search for one. Anyone who knows Mustangs is NOT going to let his car "dance off the driveway" so to speak.
Also consider shipping charges if you plan to buy your car from the states. Shipping costs can be mucho expensivo so think about that when you look in your wallet to buy.
I picked up my GT coupe for $12.5 which is about the going rate but you can find a coupe cheaper if you look on Ebay. I see them all the time.
In any case keep looking and best of luck to you. You've definitely come to the right place for help and advice (and plenty of opinions too ) !
Very true. I'll find out for sure how good of a buy mine was next week. Anyways, both the coupes and fastbacks are awesome cars. I was going to go after a decent coupe until I found this fastback. Whatever you do, try to find a car with a very good frame and panels, bodywork is expensive. The one you have there looks good, but I would go and look it over with a fine-toothed comb first. It's hard to find an inline 6 that someone has put that much work into. I've usually seen people convert them to eights (one of these days, it's going to be hard to find an original inline 6). Test drive it and see if it is good for you. Don't jump on one car right away, research it and its options. A friend told me "there is always another car." Good luck, man.
__________________
*1998 Ford Contour SVT* EH 2.5L Duratec v6
Stock as can be, just trying to reverse the damage the previous owner caused.
I hate to play the devil's advocate here but it sounds like the guy with the inline 6 wants to get more than the money he's put into it. You can find a V8 for $10.5 unless you're okay with an inline 6. For his asking price the frame rails better be perfect as well as the cowl, rockers, interior etc..Also......where is the car located? Salt on roads kill cars.
Thanks for the info, I have my pen and paper out while I learn from you guys.
I have family looking at a 1966 coupe for me now.
Seems to be a real nice car. I would still like to see undercarridge pics though. If all that work that has been listed was put into the car then it's a very good starting point. I would also like to see some trunk pics showing down into the trunk drop offs. This is where the rear quarters start to rust first and will show problems or repairs (if any). The cowl is another area to check out. The cowl is an involved and costly repair and if rusted will allow water onto the front floor.
Nothing wrong with the 6 either, and that's all some people want/need. If you definitely want a V8 then I'd wait until one comes up though. It could get pricey to swap everything V8 related into it correctly. Due to lack of demand to V8s, the 6s don't command higher prices so they are cheaper to get into. If the 6 is what you want then I wouldn't pull the trigger yet on this one, but I would keep it in mind and look at it more closely (or have someone do it for you) and look around for a few others to compare to.
Personally I would get rid of those tires though. I think whitewalls or even raised white lettered tires would look better on there. The blackwalls with those hubcaps are just too plain for my taste. Like I said, it's my personal opinion, do what you want with the wheels and tires.
__________________
1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project
Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
Thanks for the input. I got an offer from my brother's long time friend who is a collector and mechanic to build a car from ground up for me. After talking it over, I was told I could get the car how I like it (66/midnight blue/pony interior/V8/Fastback) and they will have it ready by August. It’s legit, but I feel cheated because I kind of wanted the first car to be a little imperfect (just so I could work on it and learn). I’m sure I sound ridiculous for saying that, especially being out here in Europe where the parts will have to be mailed to me. Anyway, thanks for the help everyone.
Thanks for the input. I got an offer from my brother's long time friend who is a collector and mechanic to build a car from ground up for me. After talking it over, I was told I could get the car how I like it (66/midnight blue/pony interior/V8/Fastback) and they will have it ready by August. It’s legit, but I feel cheated because I kind of wanted the first car to be a little imperfect (just so I could work on it and learn). I’m sure I sound ridiculous for saying that, especially being out here in Europe where the parts will have to be mailed to me. Anyway, thanks for the help everyone.
Buddy, if you feel cheated, don't do it. Don't just settle. It's a big investment. I think if you find one and restore it yourself, the payoff will be much bigger in the long run. DO NOT SETTLE.
__________________
*1998 Ford Contour SVT* EH 2.5L Duratec v6
Stock as can be, just trying to reverse the damage the previous owner caused.
Advice on purchasing a classic 
Plus the dollar to Euro rate is terrible!
) !
