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Old 09-13-2007   #1 (permalink)
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Default Home Brew ANTI-THEFT & fuel shut offs: anyone wanna share their ideas?

Folks,

For a long time I have envisioned a fuel shut off valve hidden somewhere in the trunk of my Mustang. I could shut off the valve, and the car could be started and driven, but they wouldn't get far.

Can't put it inside the car, don't want to run the risk of fuel spillage anywhere.

Can't do a relay shut off, as I have a mechanical fuel pump, and no desire to go electric.

I've scoured the net, but can't seem to find what I'm looking for:

A fuel shut off valve that is operated by a solenoid!

I have thought about a concoction of fuel shut off coupled with a power door lock motor. Any suggestions?

They say the best anti-theft devices are the ones brewed at home.

Michael
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1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. Dynomax cat-back, K&N, the usual crap. Welded in subframes, welded in reinforcement plates (Ford riveted them in. Go Ford! )New engine and transmission. Date coded radiator hoses. Second owner of "Katie".
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Old 09-13-2007   #2 (permalink)
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I just take a component with me required for the car to run when I park it

Although there are quite a few things to take from an EFI car compared to a carbed car I did have an 82 Riviera however, that had a hidden magnetic switch needed a magnet held to it to start the car.
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Old 09-13-2007   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MizzouMike76 View Post
Folks,

They say the best anti-theft devices are the ones brewed at home.

Michael

theres a good quote. i think *Flamethrowers*
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Old 09-13-2007   #4 (permalink)
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Hello. The only drawback to a fuel shut-off switch would be that you would have to choose between either A) running the fuel line up into the passenger compartment and install the switch there, which could be a big problem if you're involved in an accident, or B) showing the whole world where the switch is when you get out of the car and shut it off. That's why most folks opt for an electrical kill switch inside the car. There is an astounding number of simple and effective ways to run a chameleon switch that shuts of power to the coil when the ignition switch is in the on position. If you just disable the start circuit, the car can still be hot-wired and driven off, but if the car won't supply power to the coil, the car isn't going anywhere. Hope that helps.
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Old 09-14-2007   #5 (permalink)
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I picked up a little key fab deal. Was pretty cheap and works great. A slick install under the steering wheel and its hidden away.

Nate
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Old 09-14-2007   #6 (permalink)
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That's just it........


I can hotwire an old car with a pair of pliers and a lamp cord.

But without fuel, you ain't goin' nowheres.

Veronica, I don't like the idea of the fuel line in the passenger cabin either. I was thinking perhaps the trunk?

Or, does anyone know a good way to lock down the hood without those ugly locks that go thru the hood?
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1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. All original drivetrain. Factory center console and power top. Dual res. MC and power brake upgrade. Rust bucket brought back to life, I am the 2nd owner of "Lucy".

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. Dynomax cat-back, K&N, the usual crap. Welded in subframes, welded in reinforcement plates (Ford riveted them in. Go Ford! )New engine and transmission. Date coded radiator hoses. Second owner of "Katie".
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Old 09-14-2007   #7 (permalink)
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I think I found what you were wanting, an electrically activated shutoff valve for the fuel line.

Fuel Line Valves

This is a model A website, apparently lots of people upgrade their old Model A cars with these valves because the fuel is gravity fed to the carb, so this is an easy way to make sure nothing leaks down when the car is not being driven. They sell them in 6 volt and 12 volt applications, Check item A 9189 FV12, its $50.
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Old 09-14-2007   #8 (permalink)
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That would be PIMP!

I wonder if it is 5/16" or 1/4" diameter? 5/16" diameter is stock for the 66 Mustang fuel line, but something tells me it might be smaller. I'm thinking I could hide this valve just inside the wheel well. Pop the hood: can't see it. Hotwire the car, it is so close to the fuel pump it won't get very far. Maybe fab up a cover to protect and further conceal it.

Thanks for the link!

Michael
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1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. All original drivetrain. Factory center console and power top. Dual res. MC and power brake upgrade. Rust bucket brought back to life, I am the 2nd owner of "Lucy".

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. Dynomax cat-back, K&N, the usual crap. Welded in subframes, welded in reinforcement plates (Ford riveted them in. Go Ford! )New engine and transmission. Date coded radiator hoses. Second owner of "Katie".
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Old 09-14-2007   #9 (permalink)
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I set up two kill switches in my 69, one for ignition and one for fuel. I'm running an electric pump on my car and just kill it with a switch even though i know you don't want to run an electric pump. Your right though, the car diesn't get far without fuel, i've forgotton to turn it back on a few times. With the MSD ignitions, they include a wire out of the control box that you just have to run to a switch and then ground, shut's down your ignition system.
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Old 09-15-2007   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MizzouMike76 View Post
That's just it........


I can hotwire an old car with a pair of pliers and a lamp cord.

But without fuel, you ain't goin' nowheres.

Veronica, I don't like the idea of the fuel line in the passenger cabin either. I was thinking perhaps the trunk?

Or, does anyone know a good way to lock down the hood without those ugly locks that go thru the hood?
Hi again. You wouldn't be able to hot-wire my car with a pair of pliers and a lampcord. I'm a firm believer in fail-safe systems and layers of security. I won't just put what I have now out there on the internet, but the last system must have been pretty effective, since I still have the car and I leave it in parking lots all of the time, and it's a convertible, so I don't even lock the doors. I had three dummy toggle switches that where hidden in different places, but not very well, so that they could easily be found, one of the real kill switches was the cigarette lighter. It looked just like the lighter, down to the ' lighter' script, but was actually a single speed wiper switch that I converted to an on/off kill switch for the resistor wire that supplies power to the coil. I also 'fixed' the neutral safety switch so that the car wouldn't start in park, It had to be in neutral. And, of course, the ' Caution! Venomous Reptiles In Transit' sign.
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Old 09-15-2007   #11 (permalink)
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Ah,

Dummy kill switches! And I thought I was the only one so clever. I love the lighter mod, that's just sneaky
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1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. All original drivetrain. Factory center console and power top. Dual res. MC and power brake upgrade. Rust bucket brought back to life, I am the 2nd owner of "Lucy".

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. Dynomax cat-back, K&N, the usual crap. Welded in subframes, welded in reinforcement plates (Ford riveted them in. Go Ford! )New engine and transmission. Date coded radiator hoses. Second owner of "Katie".
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Old 09-15-2007   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MizzouMike76 View Post
Ah,

Dummy kill switches! And I thought I was the only one so clever. I love the lighter mod, that's just sneaky
Hi again. I've got a million of them.The thing to remember is that, for the thief, the clock is ticking. He won't sit there for twenty minutes trying to figure out how to get the car started. And the advantage to a 40+ year old car is that it's always in the back of the thief's mind that maybe this P.O.S. just won't start.
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Old 09-17-2007   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veronica View Post
Hi again. You wouldn't be able to hot-wire my car with a pair of pliers and a lampcord. I'm a firm believer in fail-safe systems and layers of security. I won't just put what I have now out there on the internet, but the last system must have been pretty effective, since I still have the car and I leave it in parking lots all of the time, and it's a convertible, so I don't even lock the doors. I had three dummy toggle switches that where hidden in different places, but not very well, so that they could easily be found, one of the real kill switches was the cigarette lighter. It looked just like the lighter, down to the ' lighter' script, but was actually a single speed wiper switch that I converted to an on/off kill switch for the resistor wire that supplies power to the coil. I also 'fixed' the neutral safety switch so that the car wouldn't start in park, It had to be in neutral. And, of course, the ' Caution! Venomous Reptiles In Transit' sign.
Hey Veronica (long time no see!!)

I could jumper the coil from battery with lamp cord and then bump the end at the solenoid using a screwdriver and the car would fire right up, unless there was a fuel shutoff hidden away somewhere..
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66 Coupe - (father-daughter project). Tangier Orange, 302 with AOD, 17 inch Bullit wheels.
69 F-100 - 351c. Emerald Green Metallic paint. Still "in progress".
68 Barracuda - Rusted out project. 318 in the frame rails for now. Maybe a 360 in the future.
00 Mustang - (son's car) V6, 18 inch Saleen wheels.
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Old 09-17-2007   #14 (permalink)
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Hey Veronica (long time no see!!)

I could jumper the coil from battery with lamp cord and then bump the end at the solenoid using a screwdriver and the car would fire right up, unless there was a fuel shutoff hidden away somewhere..
Hi John. How have you been ? Even if you came with your lamp cord already having alligator clips on the ends or some other way of attaching it, and the straight connection from the battery didn't fry the coil, which it probably would, the pertronix unit in my distributor would die on the spot, if it didn't explode. They're real sensitive like that. That's why the good thieves have a special tool for busting ignition switch key cylinders.
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Old 09-18-2007   #15 (permalink)
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Veronica,

You're right about stalling the theif. The longer they spend monkeying around, the less likely they are to follow through with the theft.

I think I will start with one of those silly brake lock Club type deals, and go from there.

Thanks for the input
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1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. All original drivetrain. Factory center console and power top. Dual res. MC and power brake upgrade. Rust bucket brought back to life, I am the 2nd owner of "Lucy".

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. Dynomax cat-back, K&N, the usual crap. Welded in subframes, welded in reinforcement plates (Ford riveted them in. Go Ford! )New engine and transmission. Date coded radiator hoses. Second owner of "Katie".
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