Oil recommendation - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016 Thread Starter
J66
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Oil recommendation

I realize there is a lot of oil discussion on our site, but still wanted to throw this out. I have a 302 with GT40P heads.
The guy at autozone suggested that I use 10w-30 synthetic blend.
I have not used either 10w-30 or a synth blend before.


What are your thoughts on his suggestion?
thank you for talking more oil options!


1969 Coupe
302, GT40P heads.
Edelbrock Performer - 600 CFM
Edelbrock Performer intake
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016
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10W-30 was one of the recommended oils in the 1966 Owner's Manual. Synthetic is just a higher performance version of the 'normal' oil. 10W-40 or even 0W-40 would be a more modern version but such oils were not possible in the mid-60s.

The advantage of synthetics is generally a longer change interval. If you change oil on a 3-4k mile interval its somewhat overkill.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016 Thread Starter
J66
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sounds good. thanks for the comments.

1969 Coupe
302, GT40P heads.
Edelbrock Performer - 600 CFM
Edelbrock Performer intake
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016
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I use Mobil 1 15w-50 full synthetic oil. Been using it for the last 17 years in numerous Mustangs, Shelbys, Big Block Gaxaxies, vintage Thunderbirds, various British vintage sports cars including Jaguar E type, Triumph TR3 & TR6, MGA, etc. at least 250,000 cumitiive miles. There is no question that a quality full synthetic oil will reduce wear, to the point you can't even measure wear after 80,000 very hard miles on my last Shelby GT350. A fantastic oil for vintage engines. It has plenty of zinc (zddp) that vintage engines require ( 1300/1200 .ppm).

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& a few '66 GT350's (1970-2012)
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016
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Assuming old school 302........5-30 or 0-30.......this will allow the oil to get to the bearings a little faster (although I do agree with Ivy that that's what the books called for years ago)..... if you live in hot climates where the temp is 100+, then 0-40 or 05-40.


With regards to




With regards to syn vs non-syn oils, today, all oils are are considered synthetic. While I am not promoting this company nor their products, they have an excellent, detailed description as to how & why all oils today are considered “Synthetic” http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm and was confirmed through legal proceedings http://www.scribd.com/doc/217558103/Motor-Oil-s-Day-in-Court. Mfgs such as castrol, are actually using a oil base that is not by previous industry standards to be even considered a "synthetic", was sued (By Exxon/Mobile IIRR) and they won in court because they were able to demonstrate with additives they were essentially delivering a syn product. When looking at all the refineries in the US (2014), the only one really capable of supporting 100% synthetic oil manufacturing is Chevron/Phillips refinery in Texas…and it is not promoted as a synthetic oil.


I also was taught when I was just a little lad, and this was written by a automotive lubrication engineer....


“Additives are blended at the proper rate, heat and in the proper proportions by the manufactures of their particular product. Crude supplies are not all the same quality and the additives have to be adjusted for the quality of the base stock being used by each particular company, per batch. Dumping your own personal stuff will more than likely be way inferior to what the oil manufacturer uses. The chemicals will normally differ from the manufacturers blend, and can cancel each other out to the point where there will be no anti-wear properties left in the product. (This is one reason it's not wise to mix oils from different manufacturers together). Changing the oil from say Mobil to Shell and then to Pennzoil will have a negative effect on your engine from conflicting chemicals. Buy an oil that you may like and STICK TO THAT COMPANY'S product.”


“What you may get away with when using Shell may cause instant havoc with Valvoline. The major oil companies work closely with the auto manufacturers so that bearing material, seal material, roller bearings, ball bearings, and all other moving parts are not adversely affected by the oil products"



Read more: Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible : Additives

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
Assuming old school 302........5-30 or 0-30.......this will allow the oil to get to the bearings a little faster......"

No matter how many times this is repeated, it doesn't become more true. Every automotive engine has a positive displacement oil pump. It will pump and move the same amount of oil per revolution of the oil pump regardless of the viscosity of the oil. The oil will reach the bearings, or anywhere else in the engine at exactly the same moment whether it is 0w-20 or 20w-50.

The viscosity WILL however affect the pressure of the oil somewhat, but less than you would think.

Z


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'65 K code Mustang
& a few '66 GT350's (1970-2012)
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016
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Every car maker has forever suggested thinner oil for cold weather. Sure, the pump will probably put out the same volume provided its not so cold that it cavitates from too thick oil. However, what leaves the pump gears can and will create such a pressure drop in the lines that the pressure regulation valve will open and dump most of the oil back into the crankcase and not deliver much of anything to the bearings. So, no, I would disagree and say that the same oil volume does NOT get to the bearings when cold. None may get there for a few seconds depending upon how much has drained out of the lines. It may leave the pump but it won't get to the bearings quickly.

Every factory recommends a thinner oil for cold weather for that very reason.

The pressure difference you see on your gauge cold vs hot is the pressure it takes to open the regulation valve farther to dump more oil when cold and not from the same oil volume being delivered. Without that valve in the system the pressure difference would be huge from cold to hot. The viscosity of a 10W-40 changes less than most with temperature but between 0 and 100F its viscosity changes by a factor of 25x; go to boiling 212F and the change is over 130x.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016
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Nicely put, but still fiction.

You don't see the pressure relief valve opening that often on SBF and BBF engines. The stock setting for the pressure relief valve on the 428/427 engines is 105 psi. It will open if you redline a cold engine with heavy oil, but who does that ? ?


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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-12-2016
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you could talk about oil for ever , 10w- 30 add zinc, (if needed),,, oh happy day,,, its worked for me for 42 years,
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seph10 View Post
you could talk about oil for ever , 10w- 30 add zinc, (if needed),,, oh happy day,,, its worked for me for 42 years,
I agree.. each application will have different parameters. I am using a 52 year old motor . While it's been "warmed" over it is still a motor using some parts well over 50 years old when synthetic was not used. I change my oil once a year . Usually after less than 2500 miles and never synthetic. Doesn't seem to be broke so not going to fix it. No oil leaks currently which can crop up using synthetic. Not racing the car so dino oil for me ...in this application. I do use synthetic in my daily driver however.
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