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1965 mustang front windshield install

7K views 13 replies 8 participants last post by  Ivy66GT 
#1 ·
I am getting to the point of needing to install my front windshield. A long time ago when I was looking into this I read a bunch of articles that some said to install it dry with no sealer, while others said to apply sealer to the metal seam and install it that way.

So, which is the better way to do this, and if you are supposed to use the sealer how do you go about doing this without making a huge mess when rope pulling the gasket to the inside of the car?

The other option is to find a reputable glass shop to do it, but I've heard stories of it leaking if it's not a classic shop and they don't really know what they are doing.

Thoughts?
 
#3 ·
I've always done my own on Mustangs and never had one leak. I just use the "rope trick" along with a helper and and occasional bit of dish soap to help the rubber move easier.
Randy
 
#5 ·
Ok so if I choose to tackle this myself, what exactly should I do? Place the rubber gasket around the glass, then how would I go around the gasket with the sealer? Do the bottom then set it in the frame, then do the other three sides and lay it down in place? I understand pulling the rope from the inside to pop the gasket over the metal lip but what am I doing with the dish soap? Also how do I incorporate the little clips for the trim?
 
#6 ·
There are lotsa video's on YouTube about windshield R&R. One is Chris Ingrassia's channel. Then there is "Mustang Medic" & "Mustangs to Fear" They show you how to install glass.


Ken :smile:
 
#7 ·
Put the trim clips on first.
Put your gasket on, it should be tight.
Shoot the sealer into the inside lip, you will see if you have the gasket.
Insert your rope into the inside lip.
Put windshield in place and work the rope. The dish soap is to put on the gasket in places where it's hard to pull the rope out.
Cj pony parts has a decent vid too.
 
#9 ·
Ok. Thanks for the tips so far. I'll try to watch some of those videos but it looks like yes I should be using the sealer rather than doing it dry. Right now I've been installing everything that is going to go around the opening so I can see how everything is going to fit together.
 
#12 ·
I recently did both front and back windshields on my 65 coupe. I watched a bunch of videos too and used strip caulk in the winshield/frame groove of the gasket, before doing the "rope" trick (I actually used 12 g wire).

I also masked off the paint with 2 inch painter's tape before using the sealant to protect the paint. And the tape also allowed me to mark where the clips were located.

Be sure to use the 3M bedding and glazing compound. You'll need 2 tubes per windshield. I sealed both the windshield-to-gasket, and then the gasket-to-frame and used plenty of that stuff. It's super messy, sticky and a pain to clean up - but it's the correct stuff for the job. No leaks. :grin:
 
#13 ·
I recently did both front and back windshields on my 65 coupe. I watched a bunch of videos too and used strip caulk in the winshield/frame groove of the gasket, before doing the "rope" trick (I actually used 12 g wire).

I also masked off the paint with 2 inch painter's tape before using the sealant to protect the paint. And the tape also allowed me to mark where the clips were located. If I were doing it again, I'd also tape the windshield as it would make cleanup easier.

Be sure to use the 3M bedding and glazing compound. You'll need 2 tubes per windshield. I sealed both the windshield-to-gasket, and then the gasket-to-frame and used plenty of that stuff. It's super messy, sticky and a pain to clean up - but it's the correct stuff for the job. No leaks. :grin:
 
#14 ·
Be sure to use the 3M bedding and glazing compound...It's super messy, sticky and a pain to clean up - but it's the correct stuff for the job. No leaks.
I used to think the same thing but that was with original W/S gaskets. Using the repro ones I have failed miserably, more than once, even with 2 tubes per window. I thought it was OK until we got it back east in really intense rain and then both front and rear leaked like a sieve.

The problem is the more narrow W/S (mine were Daniel Carpenter) seals to the glass OK but allows leaks in the corners where the rubber does not mate well with the metal lip. With a full tube of silicone caulk for each window we sealed the outer edge and another trip to the midwest a couple of weeks ago proved it to now be leak-free. Its not as simple as Ford describes it when using a repro W/S. Check the fit in those corners.
 
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