I have a 73 mach 1 that had an old 400M and a c6 tranny(yeah, I know that wasn't original). The 400 took a dump and now I'm trying to figure out the best engine that I can mate the c6 to? Should I go with the original 351 cleveland? I'd like to get around 500hp while keeping the weight down as to not degrade the handling too much. Anyone have any ideas. Can I even put 500+ HP to a C6?
Yes, you can run 500 hp through a C6 but you better beef it up first with better bands, clutches, steels, drums, and seals. And making 500+ hp takes some doing. You have options on how to make it, a Cleveland will be good to start with but just because it's a Cleveland doesn't mean it's better.
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I'd love to get the cleveland engine back in this, but is there any chance I can find original or aftermarket Boss style heads? I'd have to say that I'm a big fan of the HEMI concept. Will the 429/460 block mate with the c6?
I'd love to get the cleveland engine back in this, but is there any chance I can find original or aftermarket Boss style heads? I'd have to say that I'm a big fan of the HEMI concept. Will the 429/460 block mate with the c6?
It should fit the c6 unless they used 2 different ones i know it was used on the cleveland and big blocks is why im not sure.Boss heads good luck on that used your looking 8 grand bare theres a company c and c them out of alum 10k for a set.
Whatever motor you put back you should take note that is came from a automatic to begin with and not manual . Reason is the two differ from balance to the crank shaft . You place a mannual motor behind auto you will notice a shimmy or vibration in the motor , thats reason . The problem will only get worse until something breaks . As for win motor it came with 290 hp and clev came 300 . Want cheep power for ya bucks find a 302 mex block . Came out of 70 era trucks . They are at swap meets alot for 200 to 400 dollars. Need one greasy never been bored to start . Hipo caps and good nickel block cheep , you can bore that puppy to a 347 easy . Find a set of 4-v cleavland heads and have them fixed like the boss 302 heads , close up water intakes . At swap meet you can find a cobra 302 intake . A machine shop will have to match the block , heads and intake together . They then will only be matched to each other not to be used on any other motor but out come is a screeming rpm small block not manys regular street cars can touch . That would be raw power , I hate shot of nitro for it is unpridictable in same run et times . But add a 100 hp shot if not worried about that et differ . Juice will cut the life of a motor down and no need for it anyway if the motor is built for speed . Juice only helps a slow low compression motor anyway . Want cheeper then find any motor and add juice shot , run it till she blows , find another . 4 speeds are best if you can shift good . Some say 4 speeds the et time differs or one can miss a gear . Thats cause one does not know how to drive a 4 speed , they stay with a automatic , easier but no fun to me . My speed shop says automatics are for grannys and cripples and those who cannot shift , just a thought ...I know that motor will screem cause I have one just like that I donot use any more but still a screeming motor . Man I wish old mustang owners were close for a buddy so I could help , I like old ford power plants
Whatever motor you put back you should take note that is came from a automatic to begin with and not manual . Reason is the two differ from balance to the crank shaft . You place a mannual motor behind auto you will notice a shimmy or vibration in the motor , thats reason . The problem will only get worse until something breaks . As for win motor it came with 290 hp and clev came 300 . Want cheep power for ya bucks find a 302 mex block . Came out of 70 era trucks . They are at swap meets alot for 200 to 400 dollars. Need one greasy never been bored to start . Hipo caps and good nickel block cheep , you can bore that puppy to a 347 easy . Find a set of 4-v cleavland heads and have them fixed like the boss 302 heads , close up water intakes . At swap meet you can find a cobra 302 intake . A machine shop will have to match the block , heads and intake together . They then will only be matched to each other not to be used on any other motor but out come is a screeming rpm small block not manys regular street cars can touch . That would be raw power , I hate shot of nitro for it is unpridictable in same run et times . But add a 100 hp shot if not worried about that et differ . Juice will cut the life of a motor down and no need for it anyway if the motor is built for speed . Juice only helps a slow low compression motor anyway . Want cheeper then find any motor and add juice shot , run it till she blows , find another . 4 speeds are best if you can shift good . Some say 4 speeds the et time differs or one can miss a gear . Thats cause one does not know how to drive a 4 speed , they stay with a automatic , easier but no fun to me . My speed shop says automatics are for grannys and cripples and those who cannot shift , just a thought ...I know that motor will screem cause I have one just like that I donot use any more but still a screeming motor . Man I wish old mustang owners were close for a buddy so I could help , I like old ford power plants
Jeez go back to 1980 and your mopars. Ain't a whole lot of truth in most of that, cranks are the same for auto and manual, and the 351C head swap is dumb in 2007 when you can buy a set of heads that will support a 500hp+ SBF for $1100 and bolt them on. Now if you were talking about a set of CHI aluminum 2V heads and one of the new Edelbrock intakes, I'd agree.
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66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
Lol , well he said a cheep build motor , so I did one with a mex block and it will stand I think beside the new costly version of the high cost motors . As for crank balance I run a fe big block in all my cars now and I will never put the money into one with out being balanced . Very little option to money as to life of motor . You take a automatic balanced motor and put it behind a 4 speed or vise versa , Turn it high rpms and it soon will vibrate and come apart . Not talking 5000 rpms or under , We twist a 427 10,000 , now way it can live unbalanced I beleive . Place a cup of drink on a fine tunned motor intake unbalanced and one that is as see the differ of drink trimble in the cup , turn rpms up and then watch it . Take a 428 , there are 3 difer kinds of 428 motors all balanced different that fly wheels changed from auto to manual is a nono . I am ol school big block man , I donot know much about this new stuff as much , know one thing it can hurt ya pockets buying parts . I am just rambling on but as for heads , edelbrock sucks big time unless you spend the farm on porting them . A set of blue thunder heads right out of the box will out proform the bock heads after they have been machined for half the money . Talking about heads my 427 heads does not have the rocker shafts , a roller nothing new or old . Home made from a block of alum at speed shop just approved for nhra for the fe motor . When I bought a 66 390 fairlane it had a edelbrock intake on it , took it off . The port holes didnot match the port holes in the heads slowing it down . Put back the gt intake went alot faster . Port holes in edelbrock were too small stopping flow , I now use it on my boat ,(anchor)Love talking ford motors but now I build homes for a living and not that great on building others motors , mine I do ok with speed shop help .
I have swaped many trannys in fords never had a vibrate problem if there is one your motor mounts are toast.Yes Cleveland head swap is pointless now you can buy better after market.Only stock ford heads worth buying are the super cobra jet.The edelbrock heads are junk the gt40 ones are better.
Ok lets get back to his question . He said a cheep 500 hp plus motor if there is one I would like to buy it . I was talking racing motors not my wifes car tranny swap . I donot know what you guys are turning your motors but ride in ours and at 10,000 I think it holds together pretty good . I donot have motor supports in any of my cars , 4 stands that holds the motor up like a tunnelwedge intake has . That way I can get to all header bolts and so forth easy fast , shock towers moved , more room . We have a flow machine testing heads and found closing up the port holes half way , drilling out inside to allow gas build up , then a new kind of cam with a deep curve cut into the lobes allowing to fire twice putting new concept to head power . We do our own heads cause the class we run in h and d superstock one has to run ol school what it came with . So we test flow to gain more power and doing right well with old heads compaired to the store bought heads in iron or aluim . As for the new stuff Jack Roushs new 427 if you check had very bad smoking and loss of hp in his new motors . Speed shop got a call for his motor builders are lost . The new motor came into the shop , tested it and found the lifter galleys has soft metal and was rimming holes out . For the money I donot know about the lasting life of new race motors compaired to old . Like to talk to yall though , I can learn alot . Kids finally grew up and after 25 years I can go back to racing my pockets gave up on long ago . I just saw a 705 motor in a mustang in a eighth of a mile break into the high 3s . Everything is home made aluim , block , heads everything . That will suck ya out of the stands .
1973 Mustang Mach 1 engine and tranny combos 
