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954 views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  Grimbrand 
#1 ·
I am currently working on a 1968 mustang fastback. I am building a Shelby restomod and would like some feed back on suspension systems. I went to SEMA this year and saw quite a few different types. Any thoughts as to the best system.
Thanks,
Pat
 
#2 ·
Are you trying to make a modern car with a vintage skin ? If so, the coilover suspensions sold by https://www.streetortrack.com
will be your best bet for quality and superior customer service. Ask for Shawn.

If you are trying to maintain some of the vintage aspects of the car, while keeping yet improving on the original designs, then go to
Vintage Mustang Suspension and Steering Friction Free Roller Bearing Performance - Opentracker Racing Products. Again, there will no finer quality and customer service. Ask for John.

Z
 
#3 ·
For a car that's not going to be raced, the stock suspension up front really isn't bad, once you put in a stiffer swaybar, do the Shelby drop, get some Bilsteins (or KYB on a budget), and put in some roller perches. (along with replacing worn out rubber bits like the donuts, etc.) Because it has some deflection when really abused, it won't be quite as precise as the all-out racing hardware, but it does fairly well and will still deliver a smooth ride without transmitting every tiny pebble and crack in the road to your body.
 
#4 ·
Having road-raced the ponycars (mustang specific) in the late 70's in SoCal, I can suggest this.......IMHOI preferred the oem style suspension to the Mustang II conversions....much morestable, responsive & consistant.....and remember, the steering systems there is a slight different in thealignment specs for a street use versus track use car, but the street specs(which for the 60's cars are is the same as for the 70's mustangs- which hadradial tires- otherwise the spec's are for bias ply and I guarantee you that ifthe alignment specs are for 1965, that will cause a handling issue withradials.


Now just another IMHO....thesecars because of their basic core design are better muscled through a cornerthan driven.......let me explain a little better- hopefully.....with my unclesporsche, he had to drive the car through the corner because of the light frontend....he could very/more easily slide if he throttled it through where withthe mustang, the lighter rear end was the issue.....as long as we/I kept therear aligned within 6" of the front through the corner, while the tires& rear end was "barking" a tad, when exiting the turn, just pastthe apex of the corner, full throttle (rolled on), traction/stablity was nevera issue....and 300+ hp & 350+ lbs torque at 70+ mph in a corner can makefor a lot of tire/chassis "barking"!

With todays tire/suspension technology, you can definitely make the stangsdrive more like a porsche...but, just need toremember the basics......and controlling weight transfer & getting the besttraction within the tires (road) contact patch is always what is the goal inroad racing (and general handling). I would keep the oem suspension, do the Shelby drop, shocks as suggested, just add frontsway bar (leave the rear off for now until you evaluate the outcome) - I wouldgo with the largest diameter bar you can find....to off-set weight, I wouldlook for a hollow tube/bar (yes a little pricey but excellent)...then have thealigment spec's verified...evaluate 1 step at a time. You also have to remember, these same systems (including the steering box) were installed on everything from cop cars to dump trucks to the cobra race cars...... what the difference is IMHO, is it the drivers preference that they have to learn how to drive with these systems or are they desiring that the these systems drive the way they are now (new gen) use to?...to me, that is the real question.


This is an excellent assessmentof oem vs aftermarket suspension for the mustang…


01-20-2013, 03:19 PM by dav65mus
Expecting Too Much From Suspension?? - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums



This is also a more recentdiscussion started as a rant by a suspension engineer.


The amazing power of marketing !, and gullibilty - Vintage Mustang Forums


I hope this helps.......


 
#5 ·
Having road-raced the ponycars (mustang specific) in the late 70's in SoCal, I can suggest this.......IMHOI preferred the oem style suspension to the Mustang II conversions....much morestable, responsive & consistant.....and remember, the steering systems there is a slight different in thealignment specs for a street use versus track use car, but the street specs(which for the 60's cars are is the same as for the 70's mustangs- which hadradial tires- otherwise the spec's are for bias ply and I guarantee you that ifthe alignment specs are for 1965, that will cause a handling issue with radials.

Now just another IMHO....thesecars because of their basic core design are better muscled through a cornerthan driven.......let me explain a little better- hopefully.....with my unclesporsche, he had to drive the car through the corner because of the light frontend....he could very/more easily slide if he throttled it through where withthe mustang, the lighter rear end was the issue.....as long as we/I kept therear aligned within 6" of the front through the corner, while the tires& rear end was "barking" a tad, when exiting the turn, just pastthe apex of the corner, full throttle (rolled on), traction/stablity was nevera issue....and 300+ hp & 350+ lbs torque at 70+ mph in a corner can makefor a lot of tire/chassis "barking"!

With todays tire/suspension technology, you can definitely make the stangsdrive more like a porsche...but, just need toremember the basics......and controlling weight transfer & getting the besttraction within the tires (road) contact patch is always what is the goal inroad racing (and general handling). I would keep the oem suspension, do the Shelby drop, shocks as suggested, just add frontsway bar (leave the rear off for now until you evaluate the outcome) - I wouldgo with the largest diameter bar you can find....to off-set weight, I wouldlook for a hollow tube/bar (yes a little pricey but excellent)...then have thealigment spec's verified...evaluate 1 step at a time. You also have to remember, these same systems (including the steering box) were installed on everything from cop cars to dump trucks to the cobra race cars...... what the difference is IMHO, is it the drivers preference that they have to learn how to drive with these systems or are they desiring that the these systems drive the way they are now (new gen) use to?...to me, that is the real question.


This is an excellent assessmentof oem vs aftermarket suspension for the mustang…


01-20-2013, 03:19 PM by dav65mus
Expecting Too Much From Suspension?? - Page 2 - Vintage Mustang Forums



This is also a more recentdiscussion started as a rant by a suspension engineer.


The amazing power of marketing !, and gullibilty - Vintage Mustang Forums


I hope this helps.......
 
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#6 ·
I will admit, the stock power steering setup doesn't leave much feel. But the actual worm and sector setup isn't bad at all, if you just have the sloppy worn-out bits all fixed, and adjust the steering box if it's loose. A lot of guys are starting to run electric power steering on the column now, and that's even speed-variable usually. It's always in the parking lots that you really need that extra bit of help, not out on the open road.

Also, Beechkid's definitely right about the rear swaybar. Front swaybars will help you corner a lot flatter, and reduces understeer - up to a point. If you have a very stiff front swaybar, it can actually increase understeer, at which point a rear swaybar can come in handy by transferring some of the cornering to the rear tires, reducing understeer. For street use, I really like the 1" kit. It lets the car handle well, without being too hairy in the corners. If you get rowdy more often than I do, Beechkid's stiffer 'hollow' swaybar up front would let you control the understeer by inducing throttle oversteer.

Or, like he said,
as long as we/I kept therear aligned within 6" of the front through the corner, while the tires& rear end was "barking" a tad, when exiting the turn, just pastthe apex of the corner, full throttle (rolled on), traction/stablity was nevera issue
Another thing I should mention: I've never found anyone that doesn't actually use their Mustang/Cougar as a race car who liked the full polyurethane kits. They not only 'squeak', usually, but they will rattle your fillings loose over tiny imperfections in the road. Most of the adjustable front strut rods with heim joints, etc. do the same. The original rubber bushings (donuts) there soak up a surprising amount of jolts from the road. If you spend more time on the highway than the track, best consider such changes very carefully!

Also: With a smallblock, the stock springs are actually pretty good for a road or mild track car. If you want it a little more aggressive, the progressive 600 lb springs are a good replacement. Big blocks need a bit more spring, and probably more swaybar too - but I've never owned a big block, so if that's what you've got, you'll have to find out what works from someone else around here!
 
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