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Old 01-10-2008   #1 (permalink)
dougflint is offline Rookie


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johnston   Iowa
Smile Installing 5.0 carb engine and T5 tranny in 1968 Mustang coupe

Thinking of purchasing a 91 302 Roller Short Block for $300. It's bored .030 to make it a 306 with 9.5:1 compression. It has new pistons, double roller chain connected to a e303 roller cam with hydraulic lifters. If I purchase I plan on installing Edelbrock Performer Heads, Dual Plane Intake and Carb along with headers.

I will be dropping it into a 68 coupe and installing a t5 transmission.

My first question is: What do I need to finish the engine. is the 91 302 block similar to the vintage blocks and what direction do I need to take to

1. Does the oil pan need changed out from the newer to the older (plug the oil hole)
2. What motor mounts work?
3. What Timing Chain Cover?
4. What water pump?
5. What Pulleys (No AC)
6. What starter, alternator, distributor
7. What Fuel Pump?

My second question is the T5 transmission
1. What flywheel, clutch kit, and bellhousing is needed.
2. The 68 originally came with a 289 2v 3-speed 8" rear. Will the original clutch setup work? (Equalizer bar, fork etc.)
3. What is needed for the driveshaft?

Hopefully someone can give me the steps to take to convert this engine and tranny for my 68 stang.
Thanks
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Old 01-10-2008   #2 (permalink)
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I am doing a similiar with a 95HO in a 66 fb. Mine is a rear sump oil pickup. Motor mounts should be 68. The front of the motor, get 68 timing cover, water pump and pulleys. If you use mechanical fuel pump, you will need to install the drive cam on the camshaft. Basically, build it like a 68. Change the gear on the distributor for the roller cam. I don't know about the bellhousing and flywheel, I had to get one for the later motor. I am using a cable clutch setup from CPC. I have't got to the driveshaft yet, so I don't know.
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Old 01-11-2008   #3 (permalink)
dougflint is offline Rookie


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johnston   Iowa
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Thanks that helps.

The 91 also is a rear oil sump, so can I just keep this one? Since the vintage pans are front sump will this be an issue for install? I recently read that the oil dipstick hole for rear sumps be pugged with a freeze plug. Since the vintage 68 302 cover chain comes with a front side dipstick. Your thoughts on this.
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Old 01-11-2008   #4 (permalink)
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I am using the rear sump to clear my rack and pinion. You will have to change your pickup tube to use the front sump. If the freeze plug is tight, I don't see why not. There is not any real pressure there.
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Black 66 fastback -351w 4bl RHS heads Weiand Stealth intake MSD 6AL FMS headers disc brakes T-5 9" 4.11 limited slip coil over-rack & pinion 10 spoke 17's
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Old 01-12-2008   #5 (permalink)
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I've got a 94 5.0 in my 67 and I,m using a carb set up. A small freeze plug is included in the package when you buy a new old style timing cover, at least mine did, it came from National Parts Depot. You will need to get a fuel pump drive eccentric to mount on the camshaft, as previously mentioned. There are two types a one piece and a two piece. Either one will work, but I prefer the one piece. The dowel pin that is located at the end of the camshaft must engage the eccentric or else it will spin and cause the sprocket bolt to back off. Make sure that it's long enough. The original 5.0 dowel isn't because it didn't have an eccentric to drive. I'm using an electric fuel pump, but included the provision for the mechanical pump while I was changing timing covers, in case I change my mind. In addition:

1. You need a front sump oil pan.
2. Front sump timing cover.
3. A pulley for the 4 bolt 50 oz harmonic balancer. (1970 & up pulleys have 4 bolts)
4. 50 oz balance flywheel
5. Thermactor plugs for the open ports at the rear of the cyl. heads (use tapered end, female Allen head set screws for plugs, 5/8"x11)
6. Standard rotation water pump, stock cast iron or aftermarket aluminum. The pump with the inlet on the passenger side, (pre 1970), should be used to clear the timing pointer on the timing cover.
7.Front sump oil pump pick up.
8. Distributor with a vacuum advance (preferably one with the large dist cap, if using a stock unit) I can't remember the year that works, but I think someone will come up with it. I'm using a Mallory myself.
9. Steel dist drive gear, for use with roller cam.
10. Timing tape for harmonic balancer( balancer has to be remarked to correspond with the different location of the timing pointer on the old style cover.
11. Bracket for clutch equilizer. The threaded bolt hole for the equalizer is no longer there. ( there are several aftermarket sources for the bracket )
12. A late model starter for manual trans. (It's smaller and lighter in weight.) The OE Ford starter for the Mustang 5.0 w/man trans is fine.
13.If you go to an electric fuel pump, remember that most of them make noise and you have to cap off the mechanical pump mount on the timing cover. If you go mechanical, any pump for a small block Ford will work.
14. The 8 inch rear end will be at its limit around 300 HP (Engine) adjust accordingly.
15. 1968 motor mounts work

As for the T5 install I'm sure someone will have some info, but the trans crossmember, I believe, needs to be changed.
I hope this info helps. I had to find out alot about this 5.0 swap stuff on my own, as I installed mine several years ago when people had just started putting the late model engines in vintage Mustangs. Good info was hard to come by. Good luck.
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