1966 Mustang Lights - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-09-2017 Thread Starter
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1966 Mustang Lights

I just bought a 66 289 mustang. After driving a few minutes at night all the lights will go out for about 30 seconds and then come back on. Any ideas?


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-09-2017
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Headlight switch.................. replace it


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Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-09-2017
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LOL And don?t drive at night until you do!
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-09-2017
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Your 66 does not have a headlight fuse. It has a C.B. ( circuit breaker) You may have a short in circuit causing CB to overheat and trip. Also could be loose ground connection. Or as stated above, it may have a short in the switch. Trace it down and get it fixed. This happens a lot of the time if one has replaced headlights with Halogen type. The Circuit breaker is located in the light switch housing itself. Many people also change the dimmer switch at the same time. Hope this helps. Joe
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017
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If it continues after you replace the switch, as K4Joe says, you may have Halogen or similar headlights that are drawing too much current for the switch to handle. You'll need to install a relay so that the contacts of the relay carry the heavy current of the lights.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017 Thread Starter
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Awesome. Thanks

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-10-2017
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Halogen bulbs do NOT draw more current unless you have some illegal ones added. A halogen bulb is brighter since it operates at a higher temperature; it does not draw more electrical power. The FoMoCo halogens sold by SD are even LESS wattage than an original type one from NAPA. I have European halogen headlights in a '66 Coupe, no relays, all stock wiring including an original headlight switch; everything works fine.


The cycling is due to your headlight switch. It may, or may not, be due to a bad switch but a switch is an easy change to make. Some of them were known to have problems even when nearly new. My wife nearly got a ticket in the 60s for flashing her headlights at a police car; except she wasn't doing it, her dad's Ford was doing it by itself. Most of the switches, like the one in our Mustang today, work for 50+ years without a problem.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017
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I stand corrected, Ivy66GT. But now I'm wondering what kind of lights the headlight relay kits are for. I doubt they are for LED, since they should draw even less power.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-11-2017
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The relay kits are a good idea for ANY type of light. Some lights have to have them, such as headlights with more current draw than the stock wiring was designed for. But most can benefit from a headlight circuit relay installation because most cars have part, or all, of their original wiring.. current passes poorly thru this old wiring due to increases resistance. The HL relay kit solves ALL that, plus it keeps the main current out of the HL switch, another source of issues when they get old, or when some aftermarket lights are installed requiring more wattage to pass thru the switch.

Z

PS. this is why your lights are brighter when a relay kit is installed, i.e. More current is getting to the bulb itself instead of being absorbed by the wiring of high resistance.


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& a few '66 GT350's (1970-2012)

Last edited by zray; 10-11-2017 at 11:27 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Reeves View Post
But now I'm wondering what kind of lights the headlight relay kits are for.
The kits work best for the seller. Unless you have a wiring problem most cars don't need them. A 60W headlight (max legal size) draws a little under 5 amps; about the same as an ignition coil. How many cars do you know about with a relay for a factory ignition coil?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivy66GT View Post
The kits work best for the seller. Unless you have a wiring problem most cars don't need them. A 60W headlight (max legal size) draws a little under 5 amps; about the same as an ignition coil. How many cars do you know about with a relay for a factory ignition coil?
With all respect, Ivy66GT, this is one of those rare times we disagree. Ahhh, but most 50 year old cars do indeed have a wiring problem. It's 50 year old wiring and its 50 year old connectors that don't pass current efficiently anymore. Put a headlight relay in 100 classic Mustangs, and 90+ of those Mustangs will now have brighter lights.

A new reproduction under dash wiring harness is about $600. A new relay kit is usually under $100. Which one will most owners buy first ?

Z


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& a few '66 GT350's (1970-2012)
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That is the Band-Aid approach which is not 'restoration'. Restoration is a car that works as it did from the factory.

I own cars up to 80 years old. I also drive them cross country; 3k miles in our '39 last June. Copper does not go bad unless it is broken or corroded. Insulation is more likely to be bad. For either, if the wiring is bad, replace it. None of my cars use relays for the headlights or much of anything. A car without add-ons is simpler to maintain and likely to work as intended longer than one with 'fixes' applied for problems that don't exist. Parts not installed will never fail.

Also, the relays you buy today are pretty awful compared to even 10 years ago. The good brands were all replaced by $3 parts that work poorly. Avoid the problem, don't use any of them when copper wire works better.
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Daniel Stern lighting has the bast quality relays.

Regards,

Z


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& a few '66 GT350's (1970-2012)
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Stern is a good site. No disagreement there. However, the best relay today is still not as good as they used to be.
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