Leaf Spring and Disc Brake Conversion for rear end of 67 mustang
Hi, I am new to the forum and new to mustangs, but I have recently taken on a project for a friend. It is a 67 Mustang coupe, with a 65 289 motor in it.
I have 3 questions, what the best rear end to drop i is with disc brakes
where to get a set of new leaf springs
and how to best convert/replace the power steering system that is variable with a true power steering system.
Other than that, are there wiring harnesses readily available for these cars, or do I need to fabricate it, as the old one is fairly brittle..
Thank you very much and I Appreciate your time and expertise.
Leaf springs theres a lot of mustang part houses online heres a huge list of places Where to find mustang parts...Try here as long as you have a 8 inch rear end theres no need for a new one disc brake kits are every where for them like this Ultrastang - Order .On the power steering a rack and pinion is the only true power set up i know of.
1. The stock 8" rear is plenty strong enough for a small block. No need to waste money on that. Just have it rebuilt with a worm gear or LSD.
Like he said, disc brake kits are everywhere. Get a complete front and rear kit with matching MC. Then it will all be well balanced and work well together.
However, keep in mind that drum brakes really do work well for normal street driving. Not good for a road course or autocross, but plenty good enough for the drag strip and the street.
2. I bought most of the parts for my '66 from Mustangs Plus. I also installed sub frame connecters and Shelby style under rider traction bars. Surprisingly enough, that made a huge differance in handeling. With my mild 302/C4 combo, I didn't think it would.
3. If you're going for original, you can buy the complete PS syetme from Mustangs Plus and a few other suppliers. PS pum, power valve, slave cylinder, etc. But it's a heavy cumbersome system that doesn't work all that well. And it's expensive. I don't recommend it.
OTOH, there are a couple of companies who sell a bolt in power or manual R&P system. Flaming River is one. That's your best bet.
To me front disc are a must rears are only needed if you have a big truck or do a lot of racing where they could get used.Front disc and truck rear drums where good enough for a Shelby mustang you'll be fine.Cheapest things to make a early mustang handle better are a export brace and monte carlo bar.
I've done most of the basic handling mods save for a shelby drop, subframe connectors, and traction bars; and my Mustang handles great. Responds pretty well, flat through the corners, all that good stuff. Front discs and rear drums are just fine. Use 'em for street all the time, stops fast enough to drain my carb and kill the motor. Hopefully swapping to a Holley from the Edelbrock will fix that.
I need to disagree with the above regarding big trucks needing rear disk. My dually has front disk/rear drum. Also, all of the big rigs have drums all around, but they are air brakes.
To me, the only downside to rear drums are the adjustments that are necessary to keep them braking at their fullest potential.
HTH
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1965 289 3 spd Rustang
2001 Dodge Cummins Dually
quote from the Greek
"I haven't had my engine on a dyno, but it's probably around 300HP at the crank or maybe a little more. I don't really know for sure, but if it was World War II, you could say that I've sunk the Japanese Fleet in my neighborhood. Remember Pearl Harbor!"
Actually, I have seen disc brakes being tested on semis. I toured the Kenworth/Peterbilt test facility two months ago, and I saw disc brakes. Disc brakes have the advantages of being lighter, less prone to failiure, dry much more easily after driving through water, and fade much less. However, drums take much less pressure to activate due to the size of the friction area, I believe.
A big truck needs big brakes to stop a lot of weight thats all.Semis run drums since disc that would stop it would be pricey and have to be replaced a lot. And semi drums have more braking surface then a normal car rotor.Another thing a semi has air brakes they have more pressure then a normal hydraulic brakes but like paul said semis are switch to disc slowly.My 83 chevy 1ton i have a 3 car 5th wheel trailer i have had it loaded with cars since i changed the brakes from front disc and rear drums to wilwood 4 piston front 2 rear 14 inch rotors it stops about 70 yards shorter.
I agree with the benefits of rear disk. I would prefer to have them on my dually. However, the Dodge brake system sucks, I've changed my rear cylinders to Chevy one ton cylinders as the bore is about 1/4" larger than the Dodge ones (helped a lot). I've also changed my front disks to PowerSlot rotors, keeping the stock calipers, that helped also.
Sorry about getting off subject. I was just trying to add another opinion.
On subject, I've thought about changing the system on my 65 to all disk, but have decided to go disk/drum.
hth
__________________
1965 289 3 spd Rustang
2001 Dodge Cummins Dually
quote from the Greek
"I haven't had my engine on a dyno, but it's probably around 300HP at the crank or maybe a little more. I don't really know for sure, but if it was World War II, you could say that I've sunk the Japanese Fleet in my neighborhood. Remember Pearl Harbor!"
Leaf Spring and Disc Brake Conversion for rear end of 67 mustang 
