Well my dad and grand dad both mechanics one a Doctor of motors the other and auto engineer, both often said the same thing "IF IT RAN WHEN IT CAME IN, AND DOESNT RUN NOW, UNDO EVERYTHING YOU DID."
Basically from your first post i'm assuming it ran before storage and you preformed a "tune up" while it was sitting. As suggested above go back to the basics and start over. Stater solenoid 4 teriminals starting closest to the battery large red wire from battery, next small post is a 90" connector to a pink wire, next small terminal is a 90' connector to a brown wire, last large terminal is a thicker red or black cable ( i've seen both) to the starter. On the coil two smaller terminals marked with either + and - or batt and dist. The + or batt terminal is the one in the 3 wire harness from the firewall, the other goes into the dist. You should have good voltage at the Batt wire with the key on and no volts with the key off. The batt wire is a reduced voltage as mentioned above it should be between 8 and 12 volts, not over the as the resistor is in the wire harness under the dash. Next pull the dist cap and rotor and the coil wire and have a freind or a remote starter switch (available at most auto stores) and turn the engine over and watch the points are they opening and closing with each lobe of the cam? Do you see a spark at each opening of the points? reassemble and don't forget the rotor, many of us have stories of chasing a no start condition with the rotor sitting on the air cleaner?
next add the cap back and insert the coil lead, pull the number one plug wire from the plug end and hold the terminal about 1/4" from a good ground and again have someone turn the engine over is there a nice fat spark? next check the firing order and make sure the initial timing is correct.
I'D RATHER GO SLOW THAN NOT GO AT ALL