1966- starting issue - no spark - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019 Thread Starter
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Unhappy 1966- starting issue - no spark

good morning - I was hoping someone could help me with a direction on what to try next... I have a 1966 200cc 6 cyl mustang... in the last 8 months (5 of which was winter storage) I have replaced 2 coils, 3 condensers and 1 router....
the Distributor cap / wires and plugs are new... battery is new - but there is no spark and the car will not start...turns over jsut fine.... Omes meter used and tested coil and condensers before installing - but after trying to start and using timing light to verify spark - something is shorting out somewhere - and coil or condenser is no longer registering on omes meter...
grounding wire from coil to condenser has been replaced..

thank you for any suggestions!!!

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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A small thing is the points. when change out the condenser, did you close up the point gap? a small gap will give a feathery or small spark. double check the point gap first.
If your getting any spark at all i'd say the wiring is correct.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019 Thread Starter
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Thank you - yes, the points were looked at and measured - and they were correct... maybe they are worn..??? I have purchased new points today and will install those...
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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Do you have fuel going to the Carby?
Next time you try to start it, pour a little fuel down the carby and see if it fires up. If it does then you have a blocked fuel filter or the pump is bad.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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I'd go back to step one of the basics. Is there 12v. to the coil with the key on-engine off? With the cap off, turn the engine by hand to open the points. Is there 12v at the moveable point arm with the key on-engine off? These steps will verify that your ignition circuit is complete from switch to points. You can pull the coil wire from the cap, hold it about 1/4 inch from the block and have a helper crank the engine. You should a spark. You didn't say if the engine was running after you changed out the cap and wires. If you accidentally mis-wired the cap, it would appear as if you had no spark because you wouldn't get spark at #1 plug when you should.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis98146 View Post
I'd go back to step one of the basics. Is there 12v. to the coil with the key on-engine off? With the cap off, turn the engine by hand to open the points. Is there 12v at the moveable point arm with the key on-engine off? These steps will verify that your ignition circuit is complete from switch to points. You can pull the coil wire from the cap, hold it about 1/4 inch from the block and have a helper crank the engine. You should a spark. You didn't say if the engine was running after you changed out the cap and wires. If you accidentally mis-wired the cap, it would appear as if you had no spark because you wouldn't get spark at #1 plug when you should.
All good points made (no pun), but.....there will not be 12V present at the coil with key on, points closed, because of the Ignition Resistor which on those models is built into the feed wire from the ignition switch to the coil. The resistance drops about 3-4 volts, leaving ~ 8 at the coil. If the resistance wire increases in resistance, less voltage will be present at the coil, resulting in a weak spark.

The fender-mounted starter solenoid has 4 terminals; one of those feeds the full 12V to the coil only during cranking, to get maximum spark for starting. This bypasses the Ignition Resistance effectively as it is actually in parallel with it. Once cranking ceases, the entire coil current is carried by the wire from the ign. switch.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019
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That's electrically correct (if you are using a voltmeter) but not too noticeable if you're using a test light. Better yet. Disconnect the + wire from the coil and the "start" wire (I believe green or black with a red stripe) from the starter solenoid. Connect a jumper wire from the + battery terminal to the + post on the coil then connect another jumper wire to the + battery terminal and touch it to the "start" terminal on the solenoid. Your engine should crank and you should have spark to the plugs if my previous tests showed power via a test light. After sitting for months, you may have lost some compression due to dry cylinder walls and need all the spark you can get. Again, if it was running before being stored, it should run now.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019
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Well my dad and grand dad both mechanics one a Doctor of motors the other and auto engineer, both often said the same thing "IF IT RAN WHEN IT CAME IN, AND DOESNT RUN NOW, UNDO EVERYTHING YOU DID."
Basically from your first post i'm assuming it ran before storage and you preformed a "tune up" while it was sitting. As suggested above go back to the basics and start over. Stater solenoid 4 teriminals starting closest to the battery large red wire from battery, next small post is a 90" connector to a pink wire, next small terminal is a 90' connector to a brown wire, last large terminal is a thicker red or black cable ( i've seen both) to the starter. On the coil two smaller terminals marked with either + and - or batt and dist. The + or batt terminal is the one in the 3 wire harness from the firewall, the other goes into the dist. You should have good voltage at the Batt wire with the key on and no volts with the key off. The batt wire is a reduced voltage as mentioned above it should be between 8 and 12 volts, not over the as the resistor is in the wire harness under the dash. Next pull the dist cap and rotor and the coil wire and have a freind or a remote starter switch (available at most auto stores) and turn the engine over and watch the points are they opening and closing with each lobe of the cam? Do you see a spark at each opening of the points? reassemble and don't forget the rotor, many of us have stories of chasing a no start condition with the rotor sitting on the air cleaner?
next add the cap back and insert the coil lead, pull the number one plug wire from the plug end and hold the terminal about 1/4" from a good ground and again have someone turn the engine over is there a nice fat spark? next check the firing order and make sure the initial timing is correct.

Good luck

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myboyharley View Post
good morning - I was hoping someone could help me with a direction on what to try next... I have a 1966 200cc 6 cyl mustang... in the last 8 months (5 of which was winter storage) I have replaced 2 coils, 3 condensers and 1 router....
the Distributor cap / wires and plugs are new... battery is new - but there is no spark and the car will not start...turns over jsut fine.... Omes meter used and tested coil and condensers before installing - but after trying to start and using timing light to verify spark - something is shorting out somewhere - and coil or condenser is no longer registering on omes meter...
grounding wire from coil to condenser has been replaced..

thank you for any suggestions!!!
Check for voltage at the coil- should be 12 volts at start and something less at key on. Verify engine ground to the frame and battery negative.

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If you have voltage at the coil+ terminal in both run and start key positions, check your point gap. It is not unheard of to get a bad condenser out of the box.
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So it turns over fine but it will not fire and start? Are you sure the problem is no spark?
Might I suggest you check how you placed the new plug wires into the distributor cap. Make sure the ends make contact with the metal at the BOTTOM of the hole you slip the end in. If those are not making contact that will keep it from running. Often out of the box you need to lengthen those plug wires to hit the metal at the bottom. I know this sounds pretty basic but.... check it. One other thing you might check is in the distributor cap at the very top where the points have a piece of metal that makes contact with a piece of graphite. I have had that break off in the cap. Your car won't start. Put the old cap back on and see if that let's it start. Yeah your Dad is probably right about putting everything back the way it was. I have done the very same thing myself and ended up with similar results. It was always some rookie mistake. Check everything you installed to make sure all is well.
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