Leaking driveshaft yoke - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Leaking driveshaft yoke

It's been leaking for a while now but i've been ignoring it. I feel its time to get under vehicle and fix it. How do i fix it? just buy a new yoke or is there more to it? thanks




J

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1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
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Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Tail housing seal

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Tail housing seal

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I'll look into that as well but I feel this is yoke related. The yoke is sticking out to much and I dont like it at all. Looks like when I replaced my leaf springs driveshaft slid out alot. I'll probably have to get me a longer driveshaft now..



J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Just change the seal mate, easy to do.
The yoke looks a tad long but it should be so it slides in and out with rear suspension movement, plus if you had the car jacked up it would come out a bit as well.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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One thing I'd do is slip it out and look for 'wear rings' or pitting, when you're replacing the rear seal. If it's just a little bit worn, you can probably clean it up and polish it without any trouble. Also, just wiggle it all around and see if there's any slop or wobble to it. The thing should be free to move in and out a little as the rear axle goes through its travel, but it most definitely should have no play when it comes to rotation. Just horizontal with the shaft. If it's shiny smooth, and doesn't wiggle, you are probably fine. You're also right that it should not stick out 'a lot' because without enough of the shaft engaged, it will develop problems, and very likely warp the driveshaft while it's at it. IIRC the shop manual does list how much free play it's supposed to have, which will help you figure out if it's too far out.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by JustAnotherRuki View Post
I'll look into that as well but I feel this is yoke related. The yoke is sticking out to much and I dont like it at all. Looks like when I replaced my leaf springs driveshaft slid out alot. I'll probably have to get me a longer driveshaft now..



J
The first thing I thought when I saw that picture was that the yoke shaft was about to fall out. There should be about 1" or so back from where it bottoms out on the output spline of the transmission. And the shaft should be clean and polished, protected with a thin layer of tranny fluid to keep it from rusting.

This happened to me recently when I did a transmission swap to an AOD; the original driveshaft was too short. It was engaged in the spline but not enough, and would vibrate at speed. Then of course the shaft seal started to leak as yours is. The red color in your photo is transmission fluid which is being blown back onto the U-joint.

I ended up getting my driveshaft rebuilt to the correct length. A local shop did it and it wasn't nearly as expensive as I thought- under $250 to "re-pipe" it, continuous welds onto my original yokes, straighten, paint and balance.

But before you do anything, check your earlier work on the springs- did someone screw that up and now causing this problem?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, if i get home early today I'll jack it up and look for any play. The leak has been ongoing for a long time now even before replacing leaf springs the yoke was dripping fluid. I dont really think the differential moved backwards a lot but there is a slight chance there was movement given the old springs where pretty much done and the new ones corrected a nasty lean the vehicle had to one side. I do know this, I drive the car hard at times if the yoke was ready to pop out it would've happened by now, I'm very, very happy it hasn't happened yet.. right now I feel like driving like grandma. There is a drivetrain shop close to work I'll drop by this week.



J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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i measured the driveshaft while i was under the car and it came up to 49 1/2". yadkin, when i ease up on the gas pedal and rpms drop i feel something weird coming from under there and i can't really explain it. If i was to describe it i would have to say is like a "thud" but then i soon as i gas it and rpms go back up spins perfect. This only happens at higher speeds 50+ mph. I don't really feel any weird vibration coming from the shaft. check out my video please. Thanks again fellows







J


1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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That seems awful sloppy

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnotherRuki View Post
i measured the driveshaft while i was under the car and it came up to 49 1/2". yadkin, when i ease up on the gas pedal and rpms drop i feel something weird coming from under there and i can't really explain it. If i was to describe it i would have to say is like a "thud" but then i soon as i gas it and rpms go back up spins perfect. This only happens at higher speeds 50+ mph. I don't really feel any weird vibration coming from the shaft. check out my video please. Thanks again fellows







J
Looking at the video I can see where it use to sit, you are definitely out too far, like mentioned before check the work that was done with the leaf springs since this occured after the replacement of the springs


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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnotherRuki View Post
i measured the driveshaft while i was under the car and it came up to 49 1/2". yadkin, when i ease up on the gas pedal and rpms drop i feel something weird coming from under there and i can't really explain it. If i was to describe it i would have to say is like a "thud" but then i soon as i gas it and rpms go back up spins perfect. This only happens at higher speeds 50+ mph. I don't really feel any weird vibration coming from the shaft. check out my video please. Thanks again fellows





J
There is a lot of play in that assembly. It's the likely source of the noise and definitely the cause of the leak. You should measure the wheelbase, both sides, and compare it to the factory specs. If the spring work moved the rear axle back that far, that should be fixed before you lengthen the drive shaft. Chances are someone used the wrong springs.

Once you get this figured out you'll also need to polish the front end of the shaft where it goes into the seal. Take a sheet of 600 grit sandpaper, cut it into 1-1/2" wide strips and use them in a pull-pull configuration to clean all that up. OK to leave a slight "grain" to the surface along the shaft rotation.
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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After bugging me all day i finally brought the driveshaft down, the driveshaft came out with little effort but before taking the whole thing out i tried pushing it in and it went in another inch or so. Tomorrow on my way to work i'll drop by the a shop a buddy of mine recommended me. Wheelbase measurement is a genius idea, Thanks again Yadkin!




J
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1965 Mustang Resto-Modded with a classic charm
347 ci stroker 10:1 CR ( street warrior engine with a very mild custom ROLLER cam for torque) Weiand Stealth intake ported to AFR 185 cc ,CompCams GOLD 1.6 Roller rockers ,Wiseco ProSreet Forged Pistons,Manton custom pushrods, Hedman ceramic shorties
AOD stage 1( good up to 450 HP)
Rear End 3.80 gears, Monkey Grip Trac Lock posi unit
Tires 15" all around 225's in the back
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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That is so little engagement you are lucky the driveshaft doesn't fall out of the transmission when you go over a bump in the road. The less shaft engagement you have the sloppier the fit on the splines will be. Any slop in the fit deforms the circular rubber seal which causes an oil leak.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustAnotherRuki View Post
After bugging me all day i finally brought the driveshaft down, the driveshaft came out with little effort but before taking the whole thing out i tried pushing it in and it went in another inch or so. Tomorrow on my way to work i'll drop by the a shop a buddy of mine recommended me. Wheelbase measurement is a genius idea, Thanks again Yadkin!




J
You can see the old position in the second photo especially. The shaft looks to be about 4" long, you have 1.5" engagement and you should have 3", or about 1" exposed.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yadkin View Post
You can see the old position in the second photo especially. The shaft looks to be about 4" long, you have 1.5" engagement and you should have 3", or about 1" exposed.
^^^^ this, quit trying to rationalize around this fact. Go get a new driveshaft made.


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