New Radiator for my '66 289 questions - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019 Thread Starter
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New Radiator for my '66 289 questions

I got a kit from Summit that includes a three row AL radiator, shroud and fan. See the attached photos for how I think things should be put together; just checking to be sure it is correct. The mounting holes in the shroud match those on the back of the radiator (the side facing the engine).

If this is right, I will obviously have to drill four holes in the shroud to mount the fan. I'm thinking it would make more sense to mount the fan to the shroud with bolts rather than to the radiator using the little plastic strips that stick through the radiator as indicated in the fan instructions.

And lastly, the meager fan instructions say nothing about the polarity of the hookup wires. I'm guessing blue is positive and black is ground.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019
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Charles, the 1st thing that I see is their IS NO ANODE!!!! Get on and install in the overflow reservoir (assuming you have one). JC whitney use to sell the zinc ones (which work well with al for about $15) but magnesium is excellent as well.... should be able to get one at a boat supply shop.... the combo of AL with the cast iron will really chew up the h20 impellors and radiator internals quickly.....


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019
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I would add fan shroud flaps to the corners. Blue is probably positive but double check once its hooked up for proper rotation. If its running backwards swap the 2 wire connections. I would use rivet nuts on the shroud to mount the fan so it can be removed without removing the shroud.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beechkid View Post
Charles, the 1st thing that I see is their IS NO ANODE!!!! Get on and install in the overflow reservoir (assuming you have one). JC whitney use to sell the zinc ones (which work well with al for about $15) but magnesium is excellent as well.... should be able to get one at a boat supply shop.... the combo of AL with the cast iron will really chew up the h20 impellors and radiator internals quickly.....
Good point. Looks like this one might work:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060/overview/

I do have an overflow reservoir, and can probably fit it there. Thanks.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 07redstang View Post
I would add fan shroud flaps to the corners. Blue is probably positive but double check once its hooked up for proper rotation. If its running backwards swap the 2 wire connections. I would use rivet nuts on the shroud to mount the fan so it can be removed without removing the shroud.
This probably doesn't matter, but it looks like the shroud in your photo fits over the fan. Mine does not; the hole in the shroud isn't big enough.

Doubt I have room for flaps. The only ones I found were for 11" fans (mine is 16"), and are way too big for my shroud corners.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-21-2019
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It doesn't matter about the fan mounting, I was suggesting the flaps to help in the corners to help airflow. You can make or buy them in different sizes.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019 Thread Starter
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Well, this project hit a bit of a roadblock when I was finally able to try to install the radiator-fan combo yesterday. The fan overlaps the water pump by at least 2 inches. I measured things early on to be sure it would fit, but obviously screwed up. Summit Racing's web site query says it will fit my '66 289.

I've informed them of the problem and will be returning the fan. And I posted the problem as a review on that page. I've ordered a much thinner one in the hope that it will fit the shroud that came with the kit and will clear the water pump.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2019
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Hi guys,


In a similar situation, replacing a radiator and water pump. It looks like there's an aluminum transition piece behind the water pump and mounted to the front of the block. If there's aluminum in there with the cast iron block and pump shouldn't an anode be standard for the cooling system? If so, where would I find it or am I misreading that piece behind the water pump?


Thanks!
Bart

1968 Convertible, 289/auto
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2020 Thread Starter
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You are talking about the timing chain cover. Not sure what it's made of, but don't think it is aluminum. I just had mine off, the original that came on my '66 289. No corrosion issues I am aware of. Looks like it's a casting to me, and could be some kind of zinc based metal.
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Quote:
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You are talking about the timing chain cover. Not sure what it's made of, but don't think it is aluminum. I just had mine off, the original that came on my '66 289. No corrosion issues I am aware of. Looks like it's a casting to me, and could be some kind of zinc based metal.



ok, thanks.


is it necessary to fill the trans cooler with fluid before installing the new radiator or will the fluid purge the air itself when the car is run for the first time?

edit: just checked my Ford Service Manual, there's no mention of filling the trans oil cooler prior to reconnecting the trans cooling lines. i forget how helpful that manual can be! lol

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Not necessary to fill the trans cooler, fluid will pump through it on its own.

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While filling the converter is not necessary, make sure you put a dab of ATF on the mating surfaces so the seals are lubricated. You don't want that spinning dry! It's a good idea to put 4 quarts in first, then start the car, and add a quart at a time, checking the dipstick as you go. That'll help cut down on foaming and overflow, because if you dump it all in at once, your case will be way overfull and the converter will still be empty.

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I had same clearance problem, but solved

Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles Reeves View Post
Well, this project hit a bit of a roadblock when I was finally able to try to install the radiator-fan combo yesterday. The fan overlaps the water pump by at least 2 inches. I measured things early on to be sure it would fit, but obviously screwed up. Summit Racing's web site query says it will fit my '66 289.

I've informed them of the problem and will be returning the fan. And I posted the problem as a review on that page. I've ordered a much thinner one in the hope that it will fit the shroud that came with the kit and will clear the water pump.
Charles,
I have a 4-core Champion radiator in my 1966 vert -- stock radiator opening, stock radiator height and width, no mods to the bodywork. (I have a 302ci with the 289 layout (input and output of the radiator are both on the passenger side) Since I was installing AC in my car, I wanted an electric fan with shroud.

SYNOPSIS - keep the 3- or even 4-core radiator and just get a thinner fan (it was unclear what you ordered that was thinner -- rad or fan -- don't trade in for a thinner radiator).

Here is my post on VMF with discussion (https://www.vintage-mustang.com/thre...#post-10275657 )

DETAILS
I got a fan/shroud from Radiators-4-less, but I ran into the same clearance problem you are having -- end of the water pump shaft conflicted with the nose of the elctric fan. In my case, it was about 5/8" overlap.
So I kept the shroud and sent the fan back to the company, and I bought a thinner fan (about 2.5").

They make electric fans that are only 2" thick (SPAL makes one, but heck, there are MANY thin fan makers -- and probably most end up coming from China anyway, just re-packaged.
I also cut off about 5/16" from the water pump shaft using a grinder - cuts easily -- paint the cut off end of the shaft to prevent rust.

I now have about 1/4" clearance between the water pump and the fan, which is pretty common (several responses from VMF indicate that even 1/8" is common).
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-07-2020 Thread Starter
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I got a thinner fan, which looks like it will just barely clear the water pump shaft, and still allow the fan to be mounted on the 1/2" thick shroud that came with the 3-row radiator and previous fan.
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Quote:
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I got a thinner fan, which looks like it will just barely clear the water pump shaft, and still allow the fan to be mounted on the 1/2" thick shroud that came with the 3-row radiator and previous fan.
yep. Grinding off the nose of the water pump shaft also is common -- leave just enough shaft to support the pulley.

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