Need Help! How do I adjust my clutch? - Ford Mustang Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 02-15-2003 Thread Starter
68gtfastback's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1
how do i adjust my clutch

I just had a new clutch assembly installed in my 68 mustang. The pedal comes almost all the way up before the clutch releases and I feel that this is not adjusted properly. I would like to adjust it myself, anyone out there can give me a walk thru on this procedure??


68gtfastback is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-09-2003
jahardy-66's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2003
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 94
Okay, since nobody else has taken a crack at this one I'll give it a try. The way this works on my '66 is as follows, and should be very similar to what you see on your 68. Looking from the drivers side fender down towards the bellhousing, you should be able to see the shift fork which holds the throwout bearing poking out of the bellhousing. Just in front of this is a threaded rod that goes into a six sided, pointed adjusting "nut". The pointed end of this "nut", for lack of a better term, fits into a pocket on the clutch fork. This assembly is the clutch adjustment for setting the position of the throwout bearing with respect to the pressure plate. The position of the adjusting nut on this threaded shaft is locked in place with a jamnut that runs up to the back of the adjusting nut. To adjust the distance between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate, loosen the jamnut and then turn the pointed adjusting nut on the shaft. Both the jamnut and the adjusting nut need a 9/16 wrench. To increase the distance between the throwout bearing and the clutch fingers, run the adjusting nut up the threaded rod. This will make the engagement/disengagement point of the cluch closer to the floor at the pedal. To move this point further up the travel of the clutch pedal, you'll need to move the throwout bearing closer to the the pressure plate.
If by "releases" in your post you mean engages, then you need to move the throwout bearing away from the pressure plate. I normally adjust my clutch one full turn of the adjusting nut at a time. You can only get about one 1/6th of this adjustment at a time with an end wrench. Once you made the adjustment, tighten up the locknut against the back of the adjusting nut to make sure everything stays where you put it. If you've never adjusted a clutch before, now is a good time to get underneath the car with a flashlight and look inside the bellhousing alongside the clutch fork. You should be able to see space between the throwout bearing on the end of the clutch fork and the fingers of the pressure plate. If the bearing is against the fingers with the motor off, it will be constantly spinning during normal driving and will wear out very quickly. Changing this bearing means pulling the transmission, so make sure that there is some space between the two with the motor off. Incidentally, this distance between the bearing and the pressure plate is called the "freeplay" in the clutch linkage. You also need to make sure that there is freeplay in the system when the motor is at RPM as well. The easiest way to do this is to put the tranny in neutral and take the motor to 2500-3000 RPM. Put your foot on the clutch and slowly depress it. You should be able to distinctly feel when the surface of the throwout bearing comes into contact with the pressure plate fingers as a chatter like vibration in your left foot. If you feel this point right at the top of the clutch pedal travel, then the throwout bearing is too close to the pressure plate. Stop the motor, let the exhaust cool off, and readjust the clutch accordingly. Once you've got positive freeplay at idle and at RPM, take the car for a drive and see where the clutch engages and disengages. Adjust the bearing position until you've got the release point to suit you. Hope that helps, feel free to message me if you have any questions.

John H.
jahardy-66 is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-10-2003
Mr. Mustang
Mr. Mustang's Avatar
Posts: n/a
Thumbs up


great job!!!couldnt have explained it any better myself..
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 03-11-2003
jahardy-66's Avatar
Joined: Feb 2003
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Posts: 94
Thanks, hope somebody gets some use out of it.

John H

'66 candyapple red coupe, 347 4v engine, performer RPM heads and intake, 600 cfm holley carb, Sanderson short tube headers,
T-5, Versailles 9" w/ 3.50 gears and a detroit locker, 4 wheel discs.
jahardy-66 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Closed Thread

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome