SPAL fans on my 1964 mustang

k0rupt3d · 03-24-2008

Hey guys
I have a little problem I blew my head gasket a while ago due to overheating and after riping my car a part for a couple days and repairing the gasket and a couple bent push rods , I don't want to do that again any time soon so a buddy of mine told me to put in SPAL electric fans in. The problem is the SPAL fans are 4.6 inches wide and iv been told to have at least 1 inch of clearance between the fan and water pump pulley. I measured and I only have 3.5 inch from rad to water pump.

Has anyone put a SPAL fan in there 302 1964 mustang ?
How did they do it ?
Also would putting in a new electric water pump help my cooling problem?And maby give me more room for the fans ?

.boB · 03-24-2008

I have one in my '66. I mounted it inside the stock steel shroud.

k0rupt3d · 03-25-2008

what kind did you get ?
Im looking at the duel 11"

Veronica · 03-25-2008

Hello.

Your original cooling problem was not the result of a poor design by Ford. They sold a whole bunch of these cars when they were new in the Phoenix area that had that mechanical water pump and cooling fan, and the cars did not run hot enough to blow head gaskets.

Your money would be spent faaaaar more effectively on flushing out the cooling system. If you want to put all of that stuff on your car, that is certainly your own affair, but do it with the understanding that this will not solve your original problem. If you have the cooling system flushed, replace the upper and lower radiator hoses, fan belt, thermostat, that will fix what's wrong with your car. And, you might not need the hoses or fan belt. It could be that the thermostat just got stuck on you. Personally, I would hate to spend all of that money you're talking about when replacing a three dollar part was all that was needed. BTW if you do put that fan and an electrical water pump on there, you will also need to replace the alternator with something that can keep up with the increased demands being placed on it.

k0rupt3d · 03-25-2008

thanks for the input i forgot to say in my first post
i allready changed the thermostat and the housing and iv taken my car to get flushed once and iv done it at home a bunch of times it is dirty but its 10X better then it was.

my car runs cool when im driving it just over heats at stop lights or when im in traffic. witch is why im getting the electric fans

It only over heats in summer so it gets around 110-115

shagadoodle · 03-25-2008

I had a similar problem in fact i know why it does it, its my radiator cause its 40 years old and half rusted but i found that removing the thermo all together will fix the problem....i ran my car for an hour idling and it didn't overheat. my carb did get a little pissy but its bc i need a new carb lol or should add a spacer in.

Cracker289 · 03-31-2008

Something else to look for, on a newly rebuilt engine, is for the head gaskets to be on wrong. There is a coolant opening that is different from side to side, so you have to make sure the indicator that points to FRONT is correct. I put mine on bass ackwards and has this problem. Live and learn.

About electric fans, I am putting one on my 66 Mustang (302) and also on my 69 Ford truck (351c). Does anyone have any advise on what kind of switch to use and where to put it? I rather avoid the probe thing that gets tie wrapped or taped to the radiator hose, that just looks jury rigged to me. I like the ones with the thread in switch, but I have multiple possible points. My 302 has the original temp sender hole in the intake, and another one close to it that I have blocked off with a threaded pipe plug, and I have a place for another temp sensor in the heater line (this is a 1985 302 engine and has metal pipes for the heater hoses along the engine, and the the rubber hoses connect at the end. My 351c engine has the original temp sensor in the timing cover area, and another blocked off threaded plug in the water pump itself, and possibly another one on the intake manifold, haven't really checked that. I am using 185 degree thermostats in both, if that helps at all. Any suggestions?

Montana's Stang · 03-31-2008

I have to agree with Veronica on this. There is another problem with the cooling system and going to electric fans is not likely to fix it (although it may mask the symptoms). If you have changed you thermostat and housing and flushed your system, then check your water pump, rad hoses, and the radiator itself. You didn't say when the engine was last rebuilt but Cracker 289 is right, head gaskets have a FRONT and BACK and if they are flipped it will cause this kind of problem.

With all due respect, in my opinion removing the thermostat entirely is not a "solution". The thermostat is there to keep your engine operating under as close to ideal temperatures as possible and allow the coolant to flow in way that maximizes it's efficiency. You may need a thermostat that is rated at a lower temp, but that is as far as I would go.

MizzouMike76 · 03-31-2008

It's that time of year again; I suspect we'll be discussing our cooling systems more and more often

As for running without a thermostat: Don't do it! It 'cures' the problem of overheating, but really you're putting a bandaid on a bullet wound. The engine is designed to run WITH a thermostat; it places the appropriate amount of restriction in the cooling system to force coolant to the back cylinders, insuring even heating. You can damage your engine in the long run by leaving the thermostat out.

Check your radiator. It is probably clogged with crap.

Check your water pump. Though it may not be leaking, it may still be underperforming and causing your car to overheat.

As Veronica says above, replace your radiator hoses. How can radiator hoses make your car overheat? the bottom one should have a spring inside it (anti-collapse spring), and if it rusts and breaks, the hose can collapse and cause overheating.

So, throw on a new pump, thermostat, hoses, and have that radiator checked out!

My '66 has her original radiator. It has been rodded out/recored several times, and is still kickin'. Most radiator shops can 'rebuild' your radiator for around $75.

shagadoodle, put that thermostat back in and report back. We'll get you running right again!

Michael

The Greek · 03-31-2008

I agree with Veronica. Don't place a Band-Aid over the real problem. Even if you were to buy a heavier duty radiator, you would come out cheaper than going with all of the electrics.

I don't understand why I find so many people that seem to do everything in their power to keep from buying a new radiator. They'll throw $400 at a cooling system before they finally get that extra cooling capacity radiator for $250.