I am installing a repro rally pac which uses the power going to the door switch (the little button in the door jam that turns on and off the courtesy lights in the door and under the dash in a Deluxe Pony). The original wires going to the switch (which was removed before I saw the wiring) are a single blue/black wire with a male connector, a doube wire green going to a single male connector and a single blue/black wire with no connector at all. I assume that I would plug the double green and single blue into the back of the door switch - correct? What is the extra blue/black wire - the ground? Just seems odd that a double green would go to the switch. Once I have the right wiring to the switch I can figure out the Rally Pac wiring which uses the door switch wiring in a daisy chain to power the clock.
HELP! Veronica, I hope you answer - you are a wizz on wiring issues
You might already have this info, but there's a how-to on the CJ Pony website for installing new repro rally pacs. It has color illustrations. Here's the link:
1965 Convertible 200 I-6, C-4 Auto (originally 3-speed manual) "Groovy Red" (originally Wimbleton White, then dark green) Newly restored and finally home!
1969 Mach 1 351 (W) 3-Speed Manual, Winter Blue, Deluxe Interior, All original, per Marti Report/Eminger Invoice. Finally moving her from the barn to the garage to begin work!
1965 Convertible 200 I-6, C-4 Auto (originally 3-speed manual) "Groovy Red" (originally Wimbleton White, then dark green) Newly restored and finally home!
1969 Mach 1 351 (W) 3-Speed Manual, Winter Blue, Deluxe Interior, All original, per Marti Report/Eminger Invoice. Finally moving her from the barn to the garage to begin work!
Thanks Wsovonick - the CJ pony pages might be a help - at least they give the wire colors. I have the Mustang Monthly article and its great but the pics are black and white so you kind of have to guess on a couple of things including the connection of interest. Onward...
If you don't mind, keep me posted on your progress. I'm going to be installing an original high profile Rally Pac in my 65 convertible sometime in the near future. I had planned to rely a lot on those how-to's.
Good luck and all the best!
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1965 Convertible 200 I-6, C-4 Auto (originally 3-speed manual) "Groovy Red" (originally Wimbleton White, then dark green) Newly restored and finally home!
1969 Mach 1 351 (W) 3-Speed Manual, Winter Blue, Deluxe Interior, All original, per Marti Report/Eminger Invoice. Finally moving her from the barn to the garage to begin work!
Hello. The original ones are wired differently from the new ones. I'll draw up a diagram for them if I can't find one lying around somewhere and post it. The new ones will have a wire supplying constant power to the clock, another supplying keyed power to the tach light and clock light, a wire going to the + side of the coil, a keyed power source for the tach, and a ground. The original ones had two wires coming out of the tach and were wired in-line on the resistor wire along with the other stuff like lights. That green wire on the door jamb switch should be constant power, so I guess you could draw power from there for the clock.
Hi again. Or, I could just send you to the wiring diagram that I've already uploaded and forgotten about entirely. In my photo gallery there is a photo album called diagrams. The first picture in it is a diagram for the accessories. The rally pac is in it. The picture is called 65/1 . Hope that helps.
Thanks a bunch Veronica. You've confirmed the green wire to the door jam switch and the rest seems pretty straight-forward. I've found a couple of places were the color of my dash wires are different from the diagrams I've seen and its the original stuff. I just got a voltage meter so I can track down thing s bit better. Now on the the fog lights in a car that never had them! Any diagrams of that set-up?
Hi again. The foglights aren't a big deal at all. The only potential problem would be to buy the wiring set-up for the wrong year model car. The 65s are significantly different from the 66s. You will have a switch assembly that mounts to the dash, a long grey wire that goes out the foglights themselves, a wire that looks like something that should be a ground but actually hooks to the back-side of the ignition switch and a 20A circuit breaker. How you hook them up is, after mounting the lights to the grille and the switch to the dash, unplug the tail light feed connector that's up above the fuse box, kind of near the headlight switch, and plug the two connectors hanging on the end of your new fog light switch into the two ends of the tail light feed. It is possible to plug it together wrong, so make sure that you go color-to-color. Then run the long grey wire out to the fog lights and attach the wire to the back of the ignition switch, with the circuit breaker on that wire, and you'll be up and running. On a 66 car you have to get a different pony on the grille that you can attach the fog light bars to. Wired up like this, which is how Ford did it, it is possible to leave them on with the key in the off position, killing your battery. Some people people wire them up with the wire coming from the ignition switch going through the fog light switch and then out to the foglights, and don't hook it into the tail light feed. That way, the key has to be on and then it's on/off on just the foglights, instead of having the tail lights come on with the fog lights. Nothing complicated about it.
Thanks a ton Veronica. Just to reiterate, the wire that looks like it should be a ground (with the loop connector - mine is blue/black) actually goes to the ignition with the breaker in line before the ignition? Sometimes this wiring stuff makes my head spin. Would that wire go to the ignition even if I wanted to get the tail lights to work with the fog, as in the original potential battery draining scenario?
I'm dense, I'll admit. I already had a smoker this morning when I hooked the battery back up and had the wire for the Rally Pac (not yet installed) running from the ignition hanging under the dash were it somehow was touching metal on the heater control. Burned off the insulation on that wire in like 5 seconds! Do you think I might have done any damage to the ignition switch itself? All the other wires look fine.
Hi again. Yup, the wire with the loop connector goes on the back of the ignition switch. That's to supply keyed power to fog lights/taillights without having the headlights on. As far as what might or might not have been damaged by a wire shorting out goes, it would be impossible for someone to say anything for certain without actually looking at it, but I would really be surprised if it had actually damaged the ignition switch.
Thanks again Veronica! With any luck I will be finished with the dash today and moving on to carpeting and seats so I can actually start driving this thing
One little hic-up yesterday was that I discovered the 6x9 speakers I got from VCM several months ago will not fit into the package try framing without some metal cutting. I'm inclined to see if I can trade out for 5x7 and avoid this headache.
Be sure to post a photo or two when you're done. I'd like to see how it looks.
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1965 Convertible 200 I-6, C-4 Auto (originally 3-speed manual) "Groovy Red" (originally Wimbleton White, then dark green) Newly restored and finally home!
1969 Mach 1 351 (W) 3-Speed Manual, Winter Blue, Deluxe Interior, All original, per Marti Report/Eminger Invoice. Finally moving her from the barn to the garage to begin work!
Wiring for Door switch/Rally pac on 66 coupe 
The original ones are wired differently from the new ones. I'll draw up a diagram for them if I can't find one lying around somewhere and post it. The new ones will have a wire supplying constant power to the clock, another supplying keyed power to the tach light and clock light, a wire going to the + side of the coil, a keyed power source for the tach, and a ground. The original ones had two wires coming out of the tach and were wired in-line on the resistor wire along with the other stuff like lights. That green wire on the door jamb switch should be constant power, so I guess you could draw power from there for the clock.
In my photo gallery there is a photo album called diagrams. The first picture in it is a diagram for the accessories. The rally pac is in it. The picture is called 65/1 . Hope that helps.
Then run the long grey wire out to the fog lights and attach the wire to the back of the ignition switch, with the circuit breaker on that wire, and you'll be up and running. On a 66 car you have to get a different pony on the grille that you can attach the fog light bars to. Wired up like this, which is how Ford did it, it is possible to leave them on with the key in the off position, killing your battery. Some people people wire them up with the wire coming from the ignition switch going through the fog light switch and then out to the foglights, and don't hook it into the tail light feed. That way, the key has to be on and then it's on/off on just the foglights, instead of having the tail lights come on with the fog lights. Nothing complicated about it.
