1966 Mustang What engine oil is best?? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008 Thread Starter
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1966 Mustang What engine oil is best??

I am sure i will get a variety of opinions on this one, but that is what I need. I'm a new owner of a '66 GT and working standard maintence items first. Appreciate everyone help--
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008
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Here we go again! If you want to read what has already been said refer to the thread in the Mustang Lounge titled "7,500 mile before oil change"

But, that being said, use a synthetic. Full synthetic brands include Valvoline, Mobil 1, etc. Avoid high dollar synthetics like Royal Purple cuz they really don't give any more protection than other full synthetics. Believe what you want, but Amsoil and Conklin are good brands too, but need to be changed just like all the others. Normal engine oil (such as you will find at a Quick Lube are good too, but do not provide the really 'slippery' quality that synthetic does.

Your recommended change for a '66 is 6,000 miles (or every six months). That was true then, and it's still true today. Better oil may hold up longer, but it gets dirty just like the cheap stuff.

Avoid parafine base oil such as Pennzoil and Quaker State.

Bottom line, It probably doesn't really matter what kind you use as long as you change it regularily and check it often!

Harry
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008 Thread Starter
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Thanks

Thanks Harry, I appreciate the direction and the comments!

1966 Factory GT, Pony Interior, Dark Ivy Green Metallic
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-22-2008
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Yes, you will get many opinions on this one. I used to use Penzoil, now I use Valvoline. I had a minivan with 349,000 miles on it, and ran the cheapest oil I could find with no problems, so go figure. Oil is at its worst when it is dirty. If you run down gravel roads or do short trips or lots of stop'n'go, then perhaps a 3,000 mile interval is best. Like '60's Refugee says, the interval when new was 6,000, and if you get 'er on the highway and don't do much of the above, you'll be just fine at that interval.

Remember these cars aren't the super clean computer controlled cars we have now that can go 10,000 miles between oil changes, so keep your car in good tune, and check your plugs/points/carb adjustments often.

As for brand of oil, look for the (I think?) SAE certification. Believe it or not, not all brands have it. I think there is an AutoZone brand (the generic stuff) that is NOT SAE certified. Stay away from anything without it. My good friend is a pertroleum chemist, and he said there really is no appreciable difference between brands for conventional motor oils.

Can't go wrong with the synthetics.

Also, make sure you're using a good quality oil filter. I can usually pick up the Motorcraft FL-1A filters at Wal-Mart a buck or two cheaper than most auto parts places. Avoid the generic filters.

Michael

1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. 2nd owner, resurrected rustbucket. Factory console and power top, conversion to P/B with dual res MC.

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. SOLD
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2008
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I use motorcraft oil in everything i own its cheap at walmart and is ok oil.For your oil filter stay away from fram motorcraft and wix are the best filters i seen yet.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2008
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If you have a flat tappet (lifter) cam in your engine, you had best use an oil formulated for both Diesel and gas engines. It still has the zinc additive needed for lubrication of flat lifters/cams. The Feds have made the oil companies pull the zinc out. The new API Service SM oils have little or no zinc. The reason is emission system component fouling. O2 sensors, cats?

I'm using Shell Rotella T full synthetic. It only comes in 5W-40 weight though. The regular "dino" Rotella T has the usual 10W-30 and a couple of other weights. Chevron also makes a Diesel/gas engine oil. As for a zinc additive, you may have to look around. GM used to sell one at the dealerships, but the part number has been discontinued.

I find it a little odd as to why there hasn't been more mention of the reformulations. The hot rodding community has started getting the word out after there was an epidemic of lifters and cams going bad. At first the lifter and cam makers were getting hammered for what was thought to be poor metalurgy. It was what wasn't in the oil this time.

One more thing, I read an article that showed no difference in wear on engines using a syn-blend vs full syn. This may be a good way to save some bucks. Has anybody else seen info on this?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-23-2008
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Greek,
Yes, I have read an article in Consumer Reports about this, but they were comparing engines being serviced at the recommended oil change intervals. They had no data on long term use (100,000+ miles) or oils being left in too long. Two facts they did find was that the average engine ran cooler and gained better gas mileage using synthetics! I don't know if the savings were great enough to off set the higher cost of the oil, but with todays gas prices who knows? My primitive Neandertal brain thinks that running cooler with better mileage comes from less friction which means longer engine life which equals lower overall operating costs. I just wish we had the stuff in 1969 (I know, I know, Amsoil and Conkiln were already there, but we didn't pay much attention to them!)!
Harry
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008
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Check this out:

Directory:Alpha Omega Centrifuge Inc. - PESWiki.

engine oil centrifuge, should be making its way into the automotive market soon, cleans oil CLEANER THAN NEW. No joke. The technology has been around a few years, I believe they're starting to use them on big diesels currently, and started out on industrial & mining engines. Could extend the life of an engine almost indefinitely (which is not forever but a long time?)

Greek, thanks for the head's up about the Zn oil additive! My next oil change will be with the diesel oil as you suggest. I still have my original 289, and it has never been rebuilt, I'm sure it can use all the love it can get.

Michael

1966 289-2V C-4 Convertible. 2nd owner, resurrected rustbucket. Factory console and power top, conversion to P/B with dual res MC.

1990 GT 25th Anniversary 5.0 AOD Convertible. SOLD
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-24-2008
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I was stationed on a WW II era ship back in my military days. It was powered by Fairbanks-Morse Diesel locomotive engines. Original equipment included centrifuges for the cleaning of the engine's lube oil. The technology is nothing new. There was centrifuges for the Diesel fuel too. It was unreal what those things removed, they really worked well.

On the synthetic Rotella T. It is priced cheaper than the other syn. oils. I get mine at Wal-Mart. It usually only comes in 4 quart jugs. They also used to have it in single quarts. Maybe it's just my Wal-Mart that quit putting the qts. on the shelf.

Oil filters. Stay away from Fram. They are junk. The reason that they are so popular is the extensive advertising. If they would only use the ad money and put it into their filters things may be different. Motorcraft has just upgraded their filtering medium and that's what I use. Wix is also good. NAPA filters are made by Wix. K&N good, but overpriced. Purolator will do in a pinch. Once again, stay away from Fram.
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I know this thread has been around recently before, but this is good dialog. The funny thing is... I am running the exact stuff that people are saying stay away from, hahahaha; Royal purple with a Fram filter. Its been good to me. I have not had any trouble.

I would like to understand why not the Fram filter? Nevermind this question; I found my answer in another thread. http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...about-oil.html

66 Mustang
-Original Pony interior
-C-Code 289 2bl
Mods:
-T5 trans
-GT Glone
-15x7" 67 Pony Rims
"She is one of a kind, and lets keep it that way...NO BITTING MY STYLE" .

Last edited by thuggin; 04-24-2008 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Reading is fundamental
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