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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 06-01-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1966 mustang stalls when put into gear

Hello, I have a recently rebuilt I6 with a 3 speed transmission. she starts up and idles fine, but as soon as she is put into gear she dies even if I am pressing the accelerator she gets no power. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
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Unread 06-01-2008   #2 (permalink)
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I think that you have a vacuum leak. Check to see if the vacumm advance on the side of the dist is holding vacuum. The rubber diaphram in it may be ruptured. This will give you a vacuum leak as well as affect the timing advance. On some of the Ford sixes, all of the timing advance is controled by vacuum, there is no centrifical advance. That's where I'd start looking.

Make sure that the vac. hoses are good and the carb is not leaking at the base. If the vacuum line to the vac. advance is metal tubing, make sure that it's not kinked. This will stop or reduce the amount of vac. to the advance.

I'm assuming that the clutch is properly adjusted.
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Unread 06-01-2008   #3 (permalink)
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I also have a "66 I-6, but it has an auto tranny and I'm having the exact same problem. After rebuilding the carb, I got a good strong idle on it but it always stall out when I put it in drive. If I'm lucky enough to get it on the road, it stalls whenever I slow down to make a turn. I know it's not leaking from under the carb and I can't find any other leaks. Will I have to replace the distributor or can I just replace it piecemeal? I'm new at the mechanics, but I'm picking it up fast. Any help would be appreciated.
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Unread 06-01-2008   #4 (permalink)
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You might have a C4 auto, and those I know have a vacuum sensor to determine shift points. If that sensor is ruptured, it could very well be enough to stall the motor. But also, try revving it in park or neutral. If it feels like there is a flat spot, there's most likely a vacuum leak anywhere in your vacuum system (power brakes, transmission, ignition). All the rubber hoses and possibly ignition can be checked by spraying them with starter fluid. It should rev up a little bit when you spray them.
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Unread 06-01-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Default no luck

Well I checked vacume and pcv valve all check out fine. still not getting power when put into drive. just stalls out.
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Unread 06-03-2008   #6 (permalink)
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I mentioned the distributor vacuum advance canister. Did you check it? If it doesn't hold vacuum it's going to stall. You will not get any timing advance. Just exactly what do you mean that you checked the vacuum? How exactly did you do that?
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Unread 06-03-2008   #7 (permalink)
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just do this, take the breather off the carb, cuff it with your hands, and try to stop any air from getting into the carb, and if the motor doesnt start to die out, then you have a vaccuum leak. if not, then i'd say you have a fuel problem.
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Unread 06-04-2008   #8 (permalink)
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Default vacuum check

I visual checked the pcv valve line and the metal tubing from the vacuum advance there didnt appear to be any kinks in the lne. This may not be the correct way to check , but I unscrewed the vacuum advance line on the carb side, ckeaned it and sucked back on it. the disc in the distributer turned and as I held my tongue over the opening creating a vacuum the disk slowely turned back. does this mean the diaphram is bad. or was that test just a waste of my tme. thanks
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Unread 06-05-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Default stumped

ok, so I replaced the vacuum advance can, it was only like 14 bucks so i figured why the heck not nad I went ahead and replaced the line aswell. and still..... nothing. she stalles out as soon as she is put under load. even with her floored she gets nothing. when she is idling she sounds great I can rev her up and theres no pings or anything. any ideas. thanks
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Unread 06-05-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Default stumpped

ok so I replaced the vacuum advance, it was only 14 bucks so I figured why not. I also went ahead and replaced the line aswell. and still.... nothing she stalls out as so as she is put under load. She idles great I can rev her up and she has no pinges or anything. I'm stumpped. any ideas? thanks
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Unread 06-05-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Default stumped

Ok, so I replaced the vacuum advance, and the advance line to carb. I figured why the heck not it was only 14 bucks. And Ö. Still nothing she stalls out as soon as she is put under load, I canít even get the clutch all the way out. She just bogs down and stalls. She idles great and revs up nice without any pings,. I am stumped. Any ideas? thanks
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Unread 06-05-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Default stumped

Ok, so I replaced the vacuum advance, and the advance line to carb. I figured why the heck not it was only 14 bucks. And Ö. Still nothing she stalls out as soon as she is put under load, I canít even get the clutch all the way out. She just bogs down and stalls. She idles great and revs up nice without any pings,. I am stumped. Any ideas? thanks
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Unread 06-05-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Could be the coil? On mine when the coil started going out it would idle and rev fine, but when dropped into gear it would die.

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Unread 06-06-2008   #14 (permalink)
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The diaphram was bad. The disc inside the dist. should stay in position as long as you have vacuum to it. This wasn't a waste of time, you found a defect on an important component on the performance of the engine, even if it didn't solve the problem. At least it wasn't expensive.

It's a shame that you find diagnosis of engine problems as being a waste of time. Don't you enjoy working on your Mustang?
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Unread 06-06-2008   #15 (permalink)
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You never did specify trans as std of auto. If auto, check the rubber line at the passenger's side of the trans that connects the steel vacuum line from the engine to the vacuum sensing valve on the transmission. Even if it appears okay, the rubber line will swell and soften over time and allow a vacuum leak. Easy and cheap to check.
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