[RF Mustang]

Guy's, I'm a newbie to the site and have gone back to my early days and just recently obtained my much desired, 1966 convertible (289, 4-speed). It is in excellant shape for her age and has some work done to it. It is very drivable and road worthy. Does anyone know if out of the various leaf spring specifications ford produced for the early fords, if it is possible the centering pin location may be different ? The reason for this questions is I have ran into a problem. I noticed the location of the rear passenger wheel was not "somewhat" centered in the wheel well (front to back). It looked to be farther back than the rear driverside wheel. I took it upon my self to measure the wheel base. With my front wheels perfectly straight (I verified using a string on each side along the wheels front to back) I measured the wheel base. On the driverside, it measured 108" (factory spec.) on the Passenger side, it measures 109". I checked the torque boxes and rear frame rails and everything is fully intact, in excellant shape and not damage or deformed. The rear end and leaf springs had been removed and painted before I got it. I then checked the centering pins on the leaf springs and they were both located in the shock plate under the axle as they should. I then measured from the front edge of the shock plate to the center of the front leaf spring bolt in the torque box. The passenger side distance is about 7/8" longer than the driverside. Anyone with a thought as to the problem or a solution would be appreciated.

[beetlejuice]

Greetings! It could've been a different leaf out of another different model car would be my best guess Maybe a Falcon or Fairlane or something. Get a new pair of leafs to give you piece of mind.

[RF Mustang]

Thanks for the reply ! I was kinda thinking the same thing and figured that would be the practical way to solve the issue. I appreciate the help.

[The Greek]

Is the leaf spring installed backward? Did you measure the other spring locating pin to see if the 7/8 inch difference is because of this?

[Wifes66]

Hi RF, Welcome to the site.

I replaced my leaf springs and found that the tie bolts in the replacments were not tall enough (round bolt head end and not the threaded nut end of the bolt) to lock into the spring perch on the rear axel. The diameter was correct but not the height. This is what actually locates the axel on the spring and not the hole in the shock plate under the spring that allows the tie bolt nut to protrude through it. The spring perches welded to the axel have a cupped depression with a hole in the center. The tie bolts that came with the new springs were not tall enough to reach up into the perch depression all the way to the centering hole and would simply FLOAT AROUND in the cupped depression. I robbed the original tie bolts from the stock springs and put them in the new springs and the perches locked in posativley. The tie bolts threaded end should be peened over after the tie bolt nuts are tight by the way.

Unfortunatly I don't think you will be able to check for this without removing the shock plate and lifting the axel from atop the spring. You could probably jack the car up on the frame and let the rear axel hang on the springs, loosen the U-Bolts and shift the axel to remove the offset. Then tighten the U-Bolts. Not a good idea if you are going to launch the car at a dragstrip but for a cruiser it would probably stay put. I would think that an inch offset would have the car dog tracking pretty bad.

I am glad I checked my tie bolts before bolting it all up in the car.

Steve

[RF Mustang]

Guy's, I played it safe and bought a new set of leaf springs. I bought the 5 leaf type for the additional support and with the hopes the rear end would lift a little more. Rear end lifted and looks great. The answer to the puzzle is that I did find what the difference was. One of the leaf spings had been damaged where it was partialy "un curled" at the front bushing. It was as if maybe an axled hit something. It was not done on this car becuase the torque box is as perfect as it could be. I am also thinking someone may have thought to heat the spring to free it up and took the temper out of it causing it to un curl. None the less, It took "9" sawzall blades and some determination to cut the bolts off the spring fronts. It was a little challange not to nick the torque boxes but I pulled it off. I must say I am pleased with the new springs. And, my wheel base is exact on both sides.