I have a new motor with a Pertronix distributer. I have been seeing info. here on the forum that states that Pertronix ignitions need 12 volts to the coil but some stock wiring has a resistance wire? How do I know if I have one? Is it as simple as checking the voltage with the ignition on?
I have done several Pertronix ignition conversions. I have tried to cheat and not bypass the ballast resistor, it does not work well. All 65/66 Mustangs have a ballast resister built into the wiring harness, we call it the "Pink" wire. It has to be bypassed. The easiest and quickest way is to take a wire directly off of the accessories electrical post on the back of the ignition switch and runn it directly to the coil + post. You don't want the coil on in the accessories position you say. Don't worry, its not like points. The coil will not draw any power in the accesorry position, the joys of electronics. As an electrical engineer, I have to tell you to fuse this direct connection. ( I did not on my 65).
I used my old Accel coil; should I go with the Pertronix coil? This is the complete Pertronix dist. not just the conversion from points if that makes a difference. Thanks again for the info.
I have a 66 200 six and put the Pertronix ignition inplace of the points. I have a 45,000 volt Accel Coil and was going to put it on the car. Is this correct. And can someone specifiy the "pink" wire question. This is the first I heard of it. I would appreciate any help or directions to make it right. Right now the car is running rough all the time. It did it before the change, that is why I an trying the coil thing. My next thought was carb, then valves. I am guessing here. I have messed with the timing and nothing changes.
The Accel coil, at 45,000 volts, is the same rating as the Pertronix Flame-Thrower II. The Accel coils will work be nicely. If your running a Igniter II ignition module, the forementioned coils are ideal. As far as that pink wire thing, you should run a full 12v feed to the coil from an ignition switched source.
Keep the pink wire with the resistor connected to the ignition switch. It's pink from the ignition switch up to main disconnect, then runs to the coils as as red/green wire from the firewall gauge feed connector. (changes from pink -to- red/green, wondering who's idea was that?). That same pink wire also changes to a brown wire at the gauge feed disconnect and runs to the "I" post on your soleniod; that still uses the resistor, so you can't just cut that pink wire.
I hope this didn't get too confusing.
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1966 Convertible, 289 2v, C4, PS, PB, AC. Silver blue metallic/Lt blue/white sport interior conversion. She's all dressed up with no place to go.
Yes you made it confusing, sort of. If possible can you give me exact instructions as to what do do. I know you said run the 12v to the coil, but where is the best place to pick it up and what should I disconnect from the Coil? I really do not want to screw this up and appreciate the help.
Hello. If you go here, The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Search results for ignition system and scroll down a little bit, there will be an explaination of the ignition system, along with a diagram and picture. That should help out on the confusion thing. The resistor wire ( pink) plugs into a short red wire with a green stripe coming out of the ignition switch. You would need to replace the connector coming out the switch with a two wire connector, plug your new wire into that, have a fuse along it's length somewhere and run that out to the coil, while leaving the resistor wire connected, because it splits at the firewall connector and does other stuff besides the coil. Hope that helps.
Hi again. You should disconnect and remove the wire going from the firewall to the coil, since that is merely a continuation of the resistor wire that you are eliminating. It's already been disconnected at the ignition switch end, so it wouldn't really make any sense to leave the section of it running from the firewall connector to the coil. You will be replacing that wire with the new one that is supplying 12v to the coil.
I have done several Pertronix ignition conversions. I have tried to cheat and not bypass the ballast resistor, it does not work well. All 65/66 Mustangs have a ballast resister built into the wiring harness, we call it the "Pink" wire. It has to be bypassed. The easiest and quickest way is to take a wire directly off of the accessories electrical post on the back of the ignition switch and runn it directly to the coil + post. You don't want the coil on in the accessories position you say. Don't worry, its not like points. The coil will not draw any power in the accesorry position, the joys of electronics. As an electrical engineer, I have to tell you to fuse this direct connection. ( I did not on my 65).
You wouldn't happen to have a pic of this wire harness would you??
I just threw the ignitor and coil into my 200 cid and was going to reconnect the positive from the firewall, and then attach the red wire from the ignitor to the coil with the one from the firewall. I haven't started it yet but from reading what you guys are saying, it isn't going to work out well for me huh.
I guess I am missing something here. I have the drop in Pertronix in both of my cars and never had any issues. I didn't do anything with the resistor wire. Both cars started and ran fine with the Pertronix and have been for several years now. Either I am, for the first time in my life, extremely lucky or the older first generation Pertronix doesn't have this issue???
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Sapphire Shelby
1966 Shelby: Candyapple red w/white Lemans stripes
1966 Fastback: Mild Shelby clone
1989 GT convertible: 5-speed, 3.73 gears, four point roll bar.
"I guess I am missing something here. I have the drop in Pertronix in both of my cars and never had any issues. "
I have read where several people have not had any issue by using the pink resistor wire. I wonder if the resistor has lost it's resistance (if your a star trek NG fan...resistance is futile). Anyway that could explain how the pertronix works okay with the worn out wire. Just speculating. Gary.