[Player]

So the tranny and torque converter don't use the same fluid collectively (don't drain and fill from the same spot?

If you loosen the bottom bolts on the rear differential, wouldn't you need to replace the gasket?

Would you recommend any other seals or gaskets anywhere through the drive train with it being so old?

After getting the oil pan off I found some sludge in the bottom of the pan, it had a little silverishness to it...makes me worry about the bearings. I also noticed the timing chain on the drivers side of the sprocket is pretty loose. Can that be tightened, or am I in trouble?

[Phil95gt]

Originally Posted by Player

So the tranny and torque converter don't use the same fluid collectively (don't drain and fill from the same spot?

If you loosen the bottom bolts on the rear differential, wouldn't you need to replace the gasket?

Would you recommend any other seals or gaskets anywhere through the drive train with it being so old?

After getting the oil pan off I found some sludge in the bottom of the pan, it had a little silverishness to it...makes me worry about the bearings. I also noticed the timing chain on the drivers side of the sprocket is pretty loose. Can that be tightened, or am I in trouble?

most likely bearings may be worn,when u try to start it u will find out.also when running u may want to run some cleaner in the motor.
tranny,torque convertor uses type f fluid-same
yes replace gasket on rear-easy way to drain it.
real seal on tail of tranny where driveshaft goes in.
on timing chain-did u mean sprocket on cam or crank or timing chain itself is loose.if timing chain is loose then u will need to replace it-not fixable.
[also i'm usually am on afm about 5-6 pm everyday.

[Player]

Would you advise checking some of the bearings while I have the pan off? I don't know that it would do me much good though. Either I'll see that they're really worn and the bottom end will need to be overhauled, or they're not.

I don't think I asked my fluid question very well. Does the tranny & torque converter both drain and add fluid from the same places?

To replace the seal where the drive shaft goes in I'll have to take the drive shaft out, hopefully not too complicated. Does it need to be lubed?

So I can actually drain the fluid and put a new gasket on the rear differential w/out removing the drive shaft?

Suddenly the tranny and rear differential don't seem quite as big a deal after the ordeal of getting the oil pan off.

Thanks again Phil!

[Phil95gt]

Originally Posted by Player

Would you advise checking some of the bearings while I have the pan off? I don't know that it would do me much good though. Either I'll see that they're really worn and the bottom end will need to be overhauled, or they're not.

I don't think I asked my fluid question very well. Does the tranny & torque converter both drain and add fluid from the same places?

To replace the seal where the drive shaft goes in I'll have to take the drive shaft out, hopefully not too complicated. Does it need to be lubed?

So I can actually drain the fluid and put a new gasket on the rear differential w/out removing the drive shaft?

Suddenly the tranny and rear differential don't seem quite as big a deal after the ordeal of getting the oil pan off.

Thanks again Phil!

Well on bearings-just like u said.If u have a caliper,then u might want to check them-but if u do a overhaul of bottom end then u would also need to do the top end-a big pain.

as far as tranny-when u take pan off your only replacing 5 qts-To do completely have a shop do it after u got it running.Or you would have to either pull the motor or tranny out to drain the torque convertor.

yes u will have to take driveshaft off.Should be 2-4 bolts where it attaches to rear end and then u pull it out of tranny.Also look at u-joint.It's the joint where the driveshaft and rear end connect.U should lube the shaft on driveshaft before putting it back in tranny.

U can replaced fluid & gasket on rear without pulling driveshaft off.The rear end should have a fill hole on top with a rubberboot in hole-2-3qts to fill it up.

Your oil pan sounds like a fun one.

[Player]

I guess I'll just try to get it running, and deal with an overhaul at a later time.

Sounds like I might as well remove the drive shaft and replace the seal...and do the rear differential while I'm at it.

Can I disconnect the drive shaft from the back end, lower it to the ground and not damage it on the other end (the end in the tranny), or do you have to carefully pull it out and set it down so as to not torque/tweak the tranny?

How much does the drive shaft weigh? What kind of lube is required for the drive shaft when you put it back in...and for the U-joint?

If the fuel tank doesn't seem to have a leak do you think I should still replace or reseal it? I'm not sure what experience you've had with this, you certainly seem to know a lot about the cars though

[robotworkshop]

It sounds like you are excited about the car and I can certainly understand and respect that but I might take a slightly different approach to getting the car going. Before tearing everything down and disassembling the engine/drive train hold up a bit. Keeping in mind you want to get it running and perhaps take it for a spin I will offer up a few suggestions:

Transmission:
- Remove the pan, clean thoroughly, and install a new filter/pan gasket. Unless you have big chunks of stuff in the pan or you know the car had transmission problems it is normal to see some stuff in the bottom of the pan. Since it has been sitting it has all settled in there making it easy to clean out. I would not mess with draining the converter unless the fluid smells like it is burned. Also, unless it looks like the seals were leaking just leave them alone. Drive the car first and if they leak then fix them. No sense replacing things that aren't broken and possibly making it worse. These cars used type F transmission fluid. Not all stores seem to stock it anymore since many switched to Dextron fluid. Again, you need type F to remain compatible with the properties for the seals, etc and it works correctly. After you've driven the car a while you may decide to change the fluid again since any material that may have been stirred up will find its way back to the pan and trapped by the new filter. Also, be sure to take the old transmission fluid to recycling center!!

You may find out that it works prefectly fine and you won't need an overhaul at all.

Robert

[robotworkshop]

You also asked about the fuel system. After 27 years I would probably make the investment in a new fuel pump. If the diaphragm breaks it can let gas into the oil and that is bad new. They aren't that expensive and worth replacing.

If the tank has a drain plug you should try to drain it and perhaps put some fresh gas in and drain it again. Be prepared to buy a couple extra fuel filters and change the first one out because it may get some crud from the tank/lines. I'd go this route first since you've got nothing to loose except for some fuel filters and will be able to get it running soon.

If you are really concerned about it and were considering removing the tank to get it professionally cleaned out then you might as well just take the plunge and buy a new tank,sending unit/pickup since it won't be that much more than paying a pro to clean your old tank. Also, you can clearcoat it and drop it in for a nice clean look. If the existing line from the tank to engine looks good you could just blow it out with compressed air and use it. If not several Mustang places sell preformed replacements. Buy the Stainless since it is only a little bit more and will never rust!

[robotworkshop]

In regards to the engine I would change the oil and filter. Then remove the plugs and put a few squirts of oil/trans fluid/etc in each cylinder just to coat the walls. With the plugs out make sure you can turn the motor over with a wrench on the front of the engine. It might be stiff at first but should turn over and get easier once you get it about 1/2 way around. With a full turn it should be free. At that point re-install the plugs. Once you start it the first time it will smoke a little but should clear right up. After you know it is running and the smoke is cleared up then it would be a good time for new plugs.

I'm sure others will offer more ideas. Some may not agree with what I suggested and that is fine. It was done keeping in mind that you want to get the car going in a reasonable amount of time to get a feel for the car and then figure out what you need to do with it.

Good luck on your project.

[Phil95gt]

Originally Posted by Player

I guess I'll just try to get it running, and deal with an overhaul at a later time.

Sounds like I might as well remove the drive shaft and replace the seal...and do the rear differential while I'm at it.

Can I disconnect the drive shaft from the back end, lower it to the ground and not damage it on the other end (the end in the tranny), or do you have to carefully pull it out and set it down so as to not torque/tweak the tranny?

How much does the drive shaft weigh? What kind of lube is required for the drive shaft when you put it back in...and for the U-joint?

If the fuel tank doesn't seem to have a leak do you think I should still replace or reseal it? I'm not sure what experience you've had with this, you certainly seem to know a lot about the cars though

Regardless what anybody tells u-the car has been sitting for a long time.
So some things u will find out after it's running-Leaks or any other problems.

Yes u can do tranny rear seal and rear end at same time.

As far as driveshaft is concern u remove it from rear and pull it from tranny.Should'nt be real heavy-also don't worry about damaging it.It is tough enough.

Use some tranny fluid on rear seal on tranny.Just take your finger and go around the seal.

Maybe not the fuel tank itself,but i would replace fuel filter,rubber part of fuel line,blow fuel lines out,fuel pump.

My experience with cars-i restored a 77 cobra 2 mustang that had been sitting for 6 years.Every seal on the car leak after i got it running.I had to go over everything on car after that.I have been working on cars for 15years.My dad was a mechanic for 30years-taught me everything i know,but i'm still learning.

This is why i have told u to do some of the simple things.Especially most of the fluids changes-these can make a big difference whether
your car will run right.

[Player]

Thanks guys, that's helpful.

Well that explains it Phil, there's a lot of knowledge in that head of yours. I appreciate you sharing it.

So you think that the tank and lines will probably be ok (other than a few fuel filters?

I'm trying to get a peak in the tank (through the filler tube) to see. I'm having a hard time getting that fillter tube piece out.

What about the sending unit?

[Phil95gt]

Originally Posted by Player

Thanks guys, that's helpful.

Well that explains it Phil, there's a lot of knowledge in that head of yours. I appreciate you sharing it.

So you think that the tank and lines will probably be ok (other than a few fuel filters?

I'm trying to get a peak in the tank (through the filler tube) to see. I'm having a hard time getting that fillter tube piece out.

What about the sending unit?

Tank and lines-ok

Replace sending unit.

A lot of cars u have to drop tank down to get filler tube out.Not sure about yours.

[Player]

Well I guess I'll try to blow out the lines, replace the rubber parts (3/8"?), and take a peak at the tank. If some residue does go through the line, do you think it would do anything to the fuel pump (since it's before the filter)?

I had thought that my fuel tank dropped out of the car and that the trunk had a bottom (other than the fuel tank). I guess I was wrong. Looks like the bottom of the trunk is the tank, and if I were to remove it it would come up.

I'll pick up a sending unit.

[silver69]

With any car sitting that long you should replace the tank and lines.
get a new sending unit, tank and line kit mustangsunlimited.com/nationalpartsdepot.com
and put them in. it will save you an unimaginable amout of pain later -trust me.
the lines are preformed and easy as pie to install and the tank has some screws holding it in your car. in fact the floor of the trunk IS the top of the tank. Look for a series of small 3/8 self tapping screws aound the lip inside the trunk

[silver69]

The filler neck is held on the tail light panel by 5 self tapping small bolts and to get it out remove the hose clamps in the trunk from the rubber connecting hose and the screws in the filler neck and wiggle it and pull it out the rear of the tail light panel. Install is reverse

[Phil95gt]

Originally Posted by Player

Well I guess I'll try to blow out the lines, replace the rubber parts (3/8"?), and take a peak at the tank. If some residue does go through the line, do you think it would do anything to the fuel pump (since it's before the filter)?

I had thought that my fuel tank dropped out of the car and that the trunk had a bottom (other than the fuel tank). I guess I was wrong. Looks like the bottom of the trunk is the tank, and if I were to remove it it would come up.

I'll pick up a sending unit.

I'm helping my boss restore his 68 fastback,his tank is same way.
3/8 should be the size of rubber line.Can u tell if there's any rust on outside of tank.If not than your tank might not be that bad.Is your fuel pump on motor or in gas tank.Usually older cars have a pump mounted on motor,but it would work just fine either way.U might want to install a fuel filter before carb.It won't hurt to have 2 fuel filters.