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Old 10-02-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1969 Mustang Grande - Trying to start after 27 years

Hi guys, I've been reading posts on this and other forums for awhile and really like the knowledge base and ambiance of this one, so I'm hoping to become better acquainted with many of you.

Onto the project...I recently acquired a 1969 Mustang Grande, 351W that was meticulously maintained in its day, but has been sitting for 27 years. I would like to get it started before winter (not necessarily running around town, but that would be nice). Here are the items I'm considering doing and would appreciate some expert guidance in what to do and how to do it (in some cases).

Key:
"?" just means that I'm not sure whether to do it.
"???" means that I don't know if I should do it, and I don't know how to do it on this car.

To get it running:
  • Already have new tires
  • Rebuild carburetor???
  • Change engine oil
  • Replace oil pan gasket?
  • Remove valve covers and check valves?
  • Prime oil pump???
  • Spray some oil in the cylinders and try to rotate the engine by hand
  • Change plugs & wires
  • Change point, rotor, dist cap? (I want to switch to electronic ignition at some point)
  • Clean/replace fuel lines???
  • Clean/replace fuel tank (sounds empty when tapped)???
  • Replace fuel filter (is there more than one)
  • Replace fuel pump???
  • Check coolant & heater core hoses
  • Flush coolant
  • Change belts
  • Can’t find the negative battery cable, anyone know where it’s supposed to connect?
To drive it:
  • Change transmission fluid (weight/amount?)???
  • Change differential fluid (weight/amount?)???
  • Change brake fluid (Dot 3?)
  • Change power steering fluid
  • Rebuild brake calipers??? (they were rebuilt right before the car was parked)
  • New brake lines? (they were also replaced right before the car was parked)
I know it's a long list and there are a lot of questions embedded within, but what do you guys think?

Thanks,
-Will
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Old 10-02-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Player View Post
Hi guys, I've been reading posts on this and other forums for awhile and really like the knowledge base and ambiance of this one, so I'm hoping to become better acquainted with many of you.

Onto the project...I recently acquired a 1969 Mustang Grande, 351W that was meticulously maintained in its day, but has been sitting for 27 years. I would like to get it started before winter (not necessarily running around town, but that would be nice). Here are the items I'm considering doing and would appreciate some expert guidance in what to do and how to do it (in some cases).

Key:
"?" just means that I'm not sure whether to do it.
"???" means that I don't know if I should do it, and I don't know how to do it on this car.

To get it running:
  • Already have new tires
  • Rebuild carburetor???
  • Change engine oil
  • Replace oil pan gasket?
  • Remove valve covers and check valves?
  • Prime oil pump???
  • Spray some oil in the cylinders and try to rotate the engine by hand
  • Change plugs & wires
  • Change point, rotor, dist cap? (I want to switch to electronic ignition at some point)
  • Clean/replace fuel lines???
  • Clean/replace fuel tank (sounds empty when tapped)???
  • Replace fuel filter (is there more than one)
  • Replace fuel pump???
  • Check coolant & heater core hoses
  • Flush coolant
  • Change belts
  • Can’t find the negative battery cable, anyone know where it’s supposed to connect?
To drive it:
  • Change transmission fluid (weight/amount?)???
  • Change differential fluid (weight/amount?)???
  • Change brake fluid (Dot 3?)
  • Change power steering fluid
  • Rebuild brake calipers??? (they were rebuilt right before the car was parked)
  • New brake lines? (they were also replaced right before the car was parked)
I know it's a long list and there are a lot of questions embedded within, but what do you guys think?

Thanks,
-Will
What kind of carb.
yes on oil pangasket -is old
valves may need oil pour on the before starting it
well if u change oil pan gasket,u might as well change oil pump-2 bolts.
don't worry about dist-unless has rust in it
change fuel filter should have one by tank.Since empty check for leaks possibly.
ground connects on the motor.As long as u bolt it to it,it does'nt matter where.
ford tranny fluid-about 16 qts
20w-50 on diff.2-3qts
check for leaks on brake lines change pads.
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Old 10-02-2008   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil95gt View Post
What kind of carb.
yes on oil pangasket -is old
valves may need oil pour on the before starting it
well if u change oil pan gasket,u might as well change oil pump-2 bolts.
don't worry about dist-unless has rust in it
change fuel filter should have one by tank.Since empty check for leaks possibly.
ground connects on the motor.As long as u bolt it to it,it does'nt matter where.
ford tranny fluid-about 16 qts
20w-50 on diff.2-3qts
check for leaks on brake lines change pads.
Thanks Phil95gt!

It's a 2bbl carb (car is stock).
Liquid gasket on oil pan?
Where should I get the parts from?
16 qts?!?! Do I have to get the fluids from the dealer?
Does the oil pump have to be primed)?
So the negative cable only is better oem and what doesn't really matter)?
The owner said that he didn't drain the gas tank. I don't see a drain valve anyway.

Thanks,
-Will
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Old 10-02-2008   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Player View Post
Thanks Phil95gt!

It's a 2bbl carb (car is stock).
Liquid gasket on oil pan?
Where should I get the parts from?
16 qts?!?! Do I have to get the fluids from the dealer?
Does the oil pump have to be primed)?
So the negative cable only is better oem and what doesn't really matter)?
The owner said that he didn't drain the gas tank. I don't see a drain valve anyway.

Thanks,
-Will
Some carbs are tricky to rebuild,u might want to have a shop rebuild it.
Rubber gasket on oil pan.
any auto parts store
yes u prime the oil pump,just pour some oil into bottom of it and turn it by hand until oil comes out of top of it.U will hear it start to come out of it.
Any neg cable,It does'nt matter where u mount it on the motor as long as u bolt it to the motor
Maybe it evaporated over time or developed a leak.Check fuel system for leaks before u put gas in it.
Usually it is at least 15 qts in tranny and torque conv,and radiator combined,buy from any auto parts store as long as it is says it is for fords.
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Old 10-02-2008   #5 (permalink)
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That is good info Phil95gt, but don't the older Ford transmissions require "Type F" fluid?
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Old 10-02-2008   #6 (permalink)
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What is type F fluid?

What would you guys do about the fuel lines & tank?

Should I be worried about anything electrical?

If I want to do a lot of this and then try to start it before the carb rebuild, should I spray anything in the carb, or hook up a different fuel source?

Just thinking aloud (so to speak).

-Will
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Old 10-03-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Does the rear differential require friction modifier? It is a factory posi rear end.

Are there any other seals/gaskets on the differential or tranny that you think I should change now so I'm not leaking fluids...say 15 qts? Or do you think It will be ok?

What does the radiator have to do with the tranny/torque converter fluid?

Thanks!
-Will

Last edited by Player; 10-03-2008 at 12:37 AM. Reason: add details
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Old 10-03-2008   #8 (permalink)
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I know I have a lot of questions What about the tranny filter; would you recommend replacing it, and does it have a gasket?

I'm trying to find books to help me out with a lot of this, haven't been able to find it while searching the forum.
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Old 10-03-2008   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironhide View Post
That is good info Phil95gt, but don't the older Ford transmissions require "Type F" fluid?
Yes they do.Its been a while since i had a 77 cobra2.
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Old 10-03-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Player View Post
Does the rear differential require friction modifier? It is a factory posi rear end.

Are there any other seals/gaskets on the differential or tranny that you think I should change now so I'm not leaking fluids...say 15 qts? Or do you think It will be ok?

What does the radiator have to do with the tranny/torque converter fluid?

Thanks!
-Will
There should be 2 lines that runs from tranny to the radiator,this cools the tranny fluid.
type f is the tranny fluid u will need
replaced gasket on the pan of tranny,filter is inside of the pan of tranny,there is not a drain plug on it.
also u may need a rear seal on tranny,this is located on the tail of tranny where the driveshaft goes in it.
u also may want to put a gasket on diff.this is located in middle of diff where there is 10 or 12 bolts in it.
also u could buy a book for your car from autozone,orielly's,or any other auto part store-16-25$
i would take tank off car and clean it,run some water through it and either blown it out or let it air dry-good time to check for leaks.
the lines i would try to run some cleaner in them-if u take tank off of car don't forget to mark the lines where they go to the tank.
carb-i would take off & clean it up-But beware that gaskets will probably leak gas when u start it.
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Old 10-03-2008   #11 (permalink)
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That's good to know. It's funny, the guy at Napa said he thought I would need about 5 qts for the tranny. I think he was a little off.

Do you know what the significance of the type F fluid? Just curious.

As far as I can tell the tranny pan comes off without my having to replace any other gasket. Would you recommend replacing anything else while I have the crank case and tranny oil pans off (main o rings or anything)?

Speaking of which, are you aware of any instructions for replacing the fluid on the rear differential? Looks like a real pain. I got a shop manual but don't see any good instructions within it for that job. I'm kind of disappointed in the manual.

What do you mean by "mark" the fuel lines? I saw one guy who put acid down in his lines to eat any rust out, interesting.

I didn't find any instructions for rebuilding the carb in my manual either; do you happen to know of any online instructions? The local shop wants $200+, I think I'd rather do it myself for that price.

Lastly, does the negative batter cable have to be grounded to the bock AND the frame? And does the positive only go the the starter solenoid? Those are kind of mixed up on my car right now and certainly don't want to try and start it with something crossed.

I'm hoping to tear into this tomorrow and see what I can get accomplished.

Thanks again!
-Will
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Old 10-04-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Dropping the pan will only allow you to replace 5 or 6 quarts. That's where the guy at NAPA got that number from. When you completely drain the torque converter too is when you'll need 15.
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1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project

Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
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Old 10-04-2008   #13 (permalink)
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Ok, got it. Would taking it in to have it flushed take care of the rest?
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Old 10-05-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Ok, got it. Would taking it in to have it flushed take care of the rest?
only pan is 5 quarts of tranny fluid.
if you do tranny,torque convertor,radiator-15 quarts-to do all fluid u have to have car running first.
once u pull tranny pan off u will find a gasket inbetween the pan & tranny-u will have to replace the gasket because it won't reseal once u take the pan off.
Type f fluid is thicker than other tranny fluid-design for early model fords.
as far as the diff. is concern there should be a little fill hole with a rubber boot in it-its usually on top of the rear end.Your book should have the amount it takes to fill it up-Should be 2-3 quarts.Make sure you don't overfill it.
To drain it simply unloosen the bottom bolts on the middle of rear end[this is so your don't have to take rear end off of car.
The reason i said to mark the fuel lines is so they don't get mixed up to where they go on tank.
I've never seen acid use but if it will work-i would say to use it.
negative cable does need to mount to the frame and block-[your right]
positive cable should go to starter -i've seen some cars run threw the solenoid first[which is mounted on pass side of fender]then to starter.Not sure if your car is like that.
On rebuilding the carb-my first rebuild i took my time and i didn't have any book or anything else to help me,but u may be able to buy a book on your carb at a auto part shop.sometime u can find one.
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Old 10-05-2008   #15 (permalink)
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Ok, got it. Would taking it in to have it flushed take care of the rest?
yes you can-about 80 bucks
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