What would a 4bbl carb & porting the heads do for hp?
Just wondering what a 351W, originally 2bbl, would make if it were switched to a 4bbl and porting the heads...or even different heads. How much hp can be drawn from it without the $$ involved in a major bottom-end overhaul (ie stroking)?
A lot of variables to put into account for any kind of an accurate estimation, but a 4 barrel and a head porting job done correctly and nothing else can be worth anywhere from 10-20 HP. That's my guesstimation.
What would be the simplest, cheapest way to get a 351W to mid 300's? I'm not looking for a race car, but something that will set you back in your seat and put a smile on your face on the weekend. Not something that I'm going to have to fix every weekend. Just curious what my options are.
I guess I changed the question and perhaps should start a new thread
the biggest bang for the buck would be deeper gears. in the differential. it would use the power you have now better.
but if you are going all motor, then electronic ignition, cam, lifters, springs, some porting and make sure your carb, intake, cam, springs and timing all match your fuel grade and compression. but be a bit more reasonable. shoot for a dependable 275 hp and enjoy driving it!! you wont have to break the bank, and it will be dependable.
Sounds like stroking it is the easiest, quickest way to get hp.
Would a mild stroker kit, mild roller cam, port the heads, electronic ignition, stronger springs, and new valves be all that I would need to consider in getting closer to my goal? Or am I missing an important element?
At what point, if any, would larger fuel lines be required?
One more question: What's the difference between the 351-2v making 250hp and the the 351-4v making 390? Just the heads? I also thought the biggest difference in the Boss 302 was the heads.
One more question: What's the difference between the 351-2v making 250hp and the the 351-4v making 390? Just the heads? I also thought the biggest difference in the Boss 302 was the heads.
and forged pistons, mechanical high lift cam and carb.
listen, the 250 horse windsor has cast dished pistons, crappy heads, low compression, and a very mild cam.
to build the kind of power you want you need to do everything. good heads like AFR or edelbrock. you need to do all the stuff to the crank like knife edging, you need good fasteners like ARP sells (rod bolts, head bolts, main studs) you need a windage tray and a crank scraper would not be a bad idea, you for sure need forged pistons with at least a flat top, but a domed might not be a bad idea. but then if you run iron heads and 10:1 compression plan on race gas. if you run aluminum and 11:1 plan on race gas. you are going to have to have headers and a free flowing exhaust. a good intake and a great carb. name like demon or the better holly carbs.
and the whole mess will have to be blueprinted.
or, you can convert to a solid 4V 4.6 from an older lincoln mark8. they had 300 out of the box and are getting cheap. plus they have one of the best blocks ever avail for the 4.6 from the factory. technology is soo great! when i was in my teens (the 80s) 400hp was almost unstreetable.
the one thing to remember;
"how fast do you want to go? well, how much have you got to spend?"
Given that everything is original and documented...perhaps I would just:
Rebuild the engine, blueprint it
Port heads
Upgrade intake, carb, headers, exhaust, cams
Electronic ignition
Electric fan
Tranny cooler
Maybe electric fuel pump
Maybe that would bump me up a bit and still allow to switch back to stock in case I ever decided to sell it.
What would be the simplest, cheapest way to get a 351W to mid 300's? I'm not looking for a race car, but something that will set you back in your seat and put a smile on your face on the weekend. Not something that I'm going to have to fix every weekend. Just curious what my options are.
I guess I changed the question and perhaps should start a new thread
I am sure it is not the cheapest route, but certainly the easiest route to your goal is forced induction. bolt on a supercharger or a turbo and your there. the only kit I am aware of is still the paxton like I have but I have seen people do turbos and the older roots style as well. I am a big fan of boost, but no it is not cheap. about 3 grand when I bought mine. but a new set of AFR heads fully assembled is around 1200, cam and lifters a coupe hundred, forged pistons etc. it doesn't take long to rack up 3 grand in performance parts when building an engine. and these kits are designed to bolt onto stock engines so you don't really have to go into the engine much. of course having said that every improvement in efficiency made before boost is ussually magnified after boost. and you have to be careful to avoid detonation especially without forged pistons.
of course forced induction implies an engine that is in good repair. I would not even consider putting a supercharger on a real high mileage engine without rebuilding it, and if you are going to rebuild it you should use forged dishe pistons to get your compression to at most 9:1 a good blower grind cam, and my preference a 650 mighty demon carbureter.
Player, you need to look at saving up for a crate engine. It's going to be built right and usually with a warranty. By the time you buy the performance engine parts and pay the machine shop for their services, you will probably pay less for the crate engine.
From what I can tell from your posts, I don't think that you're experienced enough or equipped to do a rebuild. It would be a shame to spend thousands of bucks to only have the engine blow because something was done wrong. Have you got access to taking an engine building course at a local junior college? I suggest that you check it out before building an engine.
Also, if you're gonna do a rebuild, make friends with the local machine shop guys. You're not gonna be able to get your motor back into tip-top shape entirely on your own. Also, a good set of aftermarket heads can really help out power and mileage. Patriot makes an affordable set of aluminum heads that make decent power.
__________________
Proud owner of a '65 289 coupe w/ C4. Equipped with Edelbrock Performer intake K&N air filter, and 600 cfm carb, Comp Cams Xtreme Energy valvetrain, Comp Cams XE262H cam, MSD ignition, and ported heads. Suspended by 600# 1" drop front and stock rear springs, KYB shocks, 1" front and 7/8" rear sway bars, and Traction Master style traction bars. Your friendly suspension kid.
I wouldn't mind taking a course, as I've mentioned, most of my experience is with imports. I've rebuilt a couple of Mitsubishi 3000 engines and done timing belts on a few other imports...never anything with a car like this though, and nothing with internal mods.
Some of the crate engines that I've seen were about 8k or there abouts...really pricey.
Given that everything is original and documented...perhaps I would just:
Rebuild the engine, blueprint it
Port heads
Upgrade intake, carb, headers, exhaust, cams
Electronic ignition
Electric fan
Tranny cooler
Maybe electric fuel pump
Maybe that would bump me up a bit and still allow to switch back to stock in case I ever decided to sell it.
What do you think, good or bad idea?
300hp?
you are on the right track, but ditch the idea of porting your heads and buy a decent set of aluminum heads. by the time you have a valve job and porting done you will have the same money in them. and they are sooo much better. and with a good ignition and carb you could see 300. if you go this route, put some ideas on paper, get with the machine shop you make friends with and plan your motor. just cobbling together a bunch of "good deals" could result in decent power but it will more than liekly result in a motor that just runs. you know? this is the "if you want to build it yourself" plan
the crate motor is a solid choice, some are warrenties like the one post says, and most are dyno'd so you know what you are getting.
hopoe this all helps and keep us posted on what you end up going with!