What bolts do you usually replace on these old cars?
You would obviously replace the head mounting bolts, but what about the motor mount bolts (I had one lose some threads as I removed it), and the different pan bolts, drive shaft bolts etc? And where do you like to get them if you do replace them?
You would obviously replace the head mounting bolts, but what about the motor mount bolts (I had one lose some threads as I removed it), and the different pan bolts, drive shaft bolts etc? And where do you like to get them if you do replace them?
Most of the original bolts/fasteners should be fine as long as you clean them up first. If they are damaged then replace them but otherwise just keep what you've got.
Of all the bolts on the car there is one set that I would replace without question if you are rebuilding a small block 289. That is the ROD bolts. I've never had the need to change them on any other car but honestly the original ones that FORD used in the 289 are barely a step up from briggs&stratton. I may take a bit of heat for ripping on their the original bolts but they deserve it. Had I known how weak they were I would have replaced them when the block work was being done. I didn't as they all appeared to be just fine. Upon installing the third piston I got a horrible feeling that something just wasn't right upon torquing the rod bolts down. It was getting close but wasn't there. Before I knew it the bolt snapped! That had NEVER happened to me before and I was glad that it happened when it did and didn't come apart after it was complete and when the engine was running. Needless to say I removed the three pistons and took all the rods back to the machine shop and had a new set of ARP racing rod bolts installed. This time it all went together perfectly without issues and the motor runs great! I also went with ARP head bolts.
I'd save the ones you can using a wire wheel and a thread chaser. Any bolts with serious issues-thread damage just replace. Its not worth risking anything. For visible bolts I like to use stainless steel. I grind off the marking and buff them. They look like chrome.
I had one of the bolts that hold the engine to the lower support become damaged on the way out. Would you just purchase that locally, or find the exact replacement online? The dealership wouldn't have anything like that would they?
Hardware store bolts are good for trim items but for a motor and anything critical you'd want a good grade bolt like a 8.8 or 12. Most common hardware store/Home Depot/Lowes stuff is 2 or 5. A few hardware places may carry the higher grade stuff though.
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1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project
Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
Some of the newer Ford small blocks use a "Torque to Yield" head bolt. They are identified by having a washer type of flange located just below the hex of the bolt head. The bolts are actually made to stretch a small degree and require a degree dial as a way to achieve the final torque.
The service manual says that they can be used 3 times before you have to replace them. These bolts are usually a dealer item. I suggest to replace them with a good standard set of ARP head bolts and do NOT reuse torque to yield bolts after the first use. Ford has had problems with them and has issued service notices about their reuse. The factory and ARP standard head bolts don't have the washer type flange below the bolt head.
Pay close attention to lock or crimp nuts. They are supposed to thread on to the bolt with resistance. If they thread on easily, they're worn out. Replace them. You'll find these nuts on the long motor mount bolts and on the U-bolts that hold the U-joint to the differential pinion yoke and to fasten removable 8 and 9 inch differentials to the axle housing. Anything that is exposed to vibration is a good place to use lock/crimp nuts.
If doing an engine rebuild, I like to use the ARP "Wave-Lock" rod bolts. They're stronger than stock. You can't go wrong using ARP products.
If you're replacing bolts that aren't holding structural pieces grade 5 bolts are OK. They will have 3 lines on the bolt head. For bolts used on suspension and high load or stress places use Grade 8, they will have 6 lines on the bolt head. Sometimes instead of lines, they'll have dots for marks. The dots will appear on the nuts, too. To determine the grade on non-metric bolts count the number of lines/dots and add 2. Example 3 lines/dots plus 2 equals grade 5. If there's no mark on the bolt head it's grade 2 or less and too weak for anything on my car. They're junk. Most stainless bolts aren't made for structural use either. It depends on the type of alloy.
Metric bolts will have their grade marked on the bolt head with numbers. The higher the number the stronger the bolt.
A good hardware store will stock grade 5 and grade 8 bolts and are OK for use. Just don't substitute special engine and suspension bolts with hardware store bolts.
Thread chasers are taps and dies that are made to clean and straighten existing threads. They're not made to cut new threads.
Also try visiting a local junkyard, many original bolts can be found for pennies or free, most all fords carry the same hardware with little variation. anything up to 1975 and maybe later will share Mustang hardware. Unless you are building up the engine the oem hardware is just fine, headbolts should be changed if engine has been into more than once, waterpump bolts rust out and get corroded, exhaust manifold bolts can snap easily because of the heat cycles they endure, but other than that you will be ok reusing the factory hardware. Remember what the Greek said, some places get self locking nuts, they are eaily identified as being "not quite round" or come off with noticeable resistance without beiong galled or eating up bolt threads. Where? shock tower braces, Ujoint retaining nuts, AC and PS pump adjusting nuts and others mentioned. Get a media tumbler or a bench grinder with a wire wheel on one side and that is the best way to clean old harware up. WEAR GLOVES AND SAFETY GLASSES
Wow, that was some great information. Thank you all for taking the time to provide it, very informative.
I didn't even realize there was a difference between a tap & die set and a thread chaser, thanks!
I may just check the local dealer for the bolts that I need if I'm not ordering other parts online (from a place that would have it). Otherwise I don't think it would be worth it with shipping .
Pretty good discussion on bolt re-use. Thought I'd add my two cents. Below are some examples of what you can do with a bench grinder fitted with a wire brush.
The bolt on the left is a 'before' picture it's a hood hinge mounting bolts- 40 years of junk plus a little fire to cook the dirt.
The two bolts in the middle are intake mounting bolts (after bench wire wheel), one has been painted with engine blue.
I included the bolt on the right as a decent example of a bolt you might consider replacing. It's a water pump mounting bolt, that has become quite eroded and pitted from 40 years of submersion. I polished it first.
I'd say re-use most of them, replace if in doubt.
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1968 Coupe, 289 2bl, 3spd, Medium Quasar Blue- fire damaged in April 2007
There are many suppliers for mustang restoration parts. For new things I use NPD, very reliable, and they are honest about the quality of the parts they sell.
There are also numerous mustang recyclers that you can get parts from too. Have you posted any pictures of your project online yet?
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1968 Coupe, 289 2bl, 3spd, Medium Quasar Blue- fire damaged in April 2007
Silver69, thanks for mentioning the use of gloves and eye protection.
The Ford blue can be found at any auto part store. Look for the engine paint in spray cans. I really doubt that the dealer will carry most of the vintage hardware. As said, I too have had very good luck dealing with NPD, (National Parts Depot).
There's another company that carries all of the hardware for vintage Fords and it's called AMK Products. www.amkproducts.com They carry everything from the weirdest clips to you name it. They also have sets of bolts, like the odd length waterpump set.
What bolts do you usually replace on these old cars? 
