The Background:
Not too long ago I was parking my car and to get into a tight spot I turned the wheel all the way to the right stop and then heard a pop. The PS cylinder bracket ripped off of the frame. The guy that had the car before had a spacer installed between the frame and the lowering bracket which gave the PS cylinder A LOT of leverage to rip through the frame. I got that fixed, but I don't want that to be the permanent setup for obvious reasons, given that PS lowering brackets are enough of a pain alone without a spacer. So here's what I want to do.
The Problem:
I have a '70 coupe with a 302. I'm wondering if anyone out there has power steering, headers AND is using the original PS cylinder bracket? I really want to avoid using the PS cylinder lowering bracket. I'm thinking shorties may be the only solution, but I'd like to get everyone's opinions. This doesn't matter as much but I'm also going do and EFI conversion sometime in the future.
I just used the lowering bracket that's recommended when you use full length headers. Why don't you want to go that route? Shorty headers would be another route, but the drop bracket is so darn easy to install.
It is really easy to install, but I'm trying to stay away from the lowering bracket because they have such a horrible reputation. They add leverage to the ps cylinder that allows it to either break the lowering bracket itself or rip through the frame(both of which I have experienced within the last year). That's why I want to stick with the stock bracket, but from what I've read it seems most headers need the lowering bracket.
Yeah, If you don't want to use the lowering bracket you have really only two options.
1.) Shorty headers
2.) Make a "dimple" in the header tubes that are interfering with the PS cylinder. This will require heating the header with a torch.
3.) I actually ran a bead on the outside edge of the PS bracket to the bottom of the frame rail with a MIG welder. It NEVER moved after that.
I am also looking to avoid the drop bracket on my '67, MAC appears to have the only 'reasonably' ($220 plain-$250 HTC -$360 ceramic) priced headers that don't require the drop bracket from what I've read on application sites. I haven't purchased or installed yet so I can't speak from experience. Mac Performance - performance accessories for cars, trucks, and motorcycles HillBank MotorSports
Don't know if FPA or Doug's headers require drop bracket but I think they're close to double+ that price.
Jon
Jonk, where did you get that those don't require the drop bracket? Just wondering since they have very little info on those headers. Thanks for the great find though, hopefully those will work.
Hi, sorry, knew I shoulda' put a space between the links, click the Hillbank link and it states:
"This is the only header for early Mustangs that doesn't require a power steering cylinder lowering bracket, foornotes, or torches for installation. And best of all ground clearence is never a problem. All of this makes for an exhaust header that really fits!"
I have read it on at least one other site that sells them and I'm sure you could call MAC to verify.
Pick which header part# you want from the MAC website, ex:
MAC TF6466 and use a search engine to see who carries them for what price and for footnotes.
Be sure to post back if you do get them and if they do fit w/o modding, I won't be taking this step for a few months.
Jon
dur...Sorry, I didn't realize you that you had put both links on there. Thanks a lot! I have an '87 5.0, so if they fit on the later model block then I will most likely get them. I'm sure they should fit. Thanks again.
an entirely different tactic for getting the header to fit without using the drop bracket is to go with rack and pinion steering. get rid of all that power assist headache get a nice tight steering gear and it fits with long tube headers. I personally think the rack and pinion is the best thing I ever did to my car. I will be adding it to my 67 no matter what else I do. I know that this is not really the direction you are heading but with all of the other restomodding you have done it is a reasonable option.
Are you using the P/S pump that mates with the system? The relief valve should have kicked in before there was enough hydraulic pressure to break the bracket. This is if the bracket was attached with the proper hardware or the frame isn't in poor condition.
If you can afford it, mccance has the best solution. The original P/S system is such an antiquated design, that always has been plagued with leakage and dependability problems, that I finally got sick of it. I converted to manual steering. If I find a little extra money, a power rack and pinion system is going to get installed on my pony, too.
Other than the problems with the original system, I never could stand looking at those darned hoses hanging down from the car. It looks like sh*t. That's another reason that I got rid of it. If anything can detract from the looks of a nicely stanced Mustang, those hoses do. It gives the car a pieced together look to me.
Yeah, the whole system is stock. I do have a problem with the steering though. I have a huge turning range and can turn on a dime when I turn left, but to the right is another story. It is very limited when I turn right. When I was parking I turned the wheel all the way to the right and that's when I heard the pop. Don't know what it was but it tore right through the frame. I hear these things happen anyway with the lowering brackets and the guy who had the car before put a spacer in between the lowering bracket and the frame, which added to the PS cylinder leverage.
TheGreek, doesn't the power R&P system also have hoses and all that?
I actually haven't really considered getting a R&P setup, but I think I may consider it now. I was going to get my whole system rebuilt and new linkages, so it was going to be expensive anyway. I guess I'm open to all options right now.
Yeah, the whole system is stock. I do have a problem with the steering though. I have a huge turning range and can turn on a dime when I turn left, but to the right is another story. It is very limited when I turn right. When I was parking I turned the wheel all the way to the right and that's when I heard the pop. Don't know what it was but it tore right through the frame. I hear these things happen anyway with the lowering brackets and the guy who had the car before put a spacer in between the lowering bracket and the frame, which added to the PS cylinder leverage.
TheGreek, doesn't the power R&P system also have hoses and all that?
I actually haven't really considered getting a R&P setup, but I think I may consider it now. I was going to get my whole system rebuilt and new linkages, so it was going to be expensive anyway. I guess I'm open to all options right now.
How tough is it to install a power R&P system?
Thanks guys.
I have the total control power rack and pinion setup with the krc power steering pump. all of the hoses come out on top of the rack. none hang down. I have not had a leaking powersteering hose in 8 years. I installed the power rack with basic hand tools in my garage in half a day. it is very easy. the hardest part for me was removing the stock steering gear. but it is sooooo! worth it.
mccance, thanks for that. So you didn't have to cut or drill or anything fancy? that sounds really tempting, but, if you don't mind me asking, did you end up paying like around $3k for the whole setup. I was just taking a look at the TCP stuff and it seems like it would be pretty expensive.
when I bought my rack it was about 1,000 dollars, the krc pump was about 600 and so was the ididit tilt column, but I did not do it all at once. an yes the priceas have gone up quite a bit since then. I first just installed the rack with my original column. on that you have to cut the steering column with a hacksaw or cut off wheel and then drill a set screw hole in it then the shaft installs. you also have to drill holes in the firewall to anchor the bottom of the steering column. I later upgraded to the krc pump and a couple years after that switched to the krc pump. but it can all be done with basic hand tools. seriously the only hard part is getting the old steering gear out. there is another option also randalls rack from canada has a cheaper option that looks like it works just as well
but it really is worth it you will so love it.