Good point about the Shelby's having the 8.8. Also I believe the Ranger has the 29 spline axels and not the 31 Spline which is a huge difference.
I may be wrong but in Andrew's case it looks that it was the driveshaft that failed and that screwed up the 8.8 rearend somehow. What was it that failed in the differential?
The Ranger 4x4 Level 2 comes with the 31 spline and the torsen differencial - they are hard to find. Normal is the 28 spline, the later ones measure 54" from backing plate to plate, come with 10" brakes, lot less hasle than dealing with the Explorer. Check for postings by Sean Reno, he's doing the Explorer in his '66'.
Dave
I did the swap in my 1968 Coupe about 2 months ago. It is a '96 8.8" Explorer with 3.73 trac-lok and disc brakes.
i haven't finished because of transmission problems but I had to weld on spring perch extensions (not hard) and I have to move over one of my mufflers b/c of the pinion offset. Other than that it is pretty straight forward so far. I also have to shorten my driveshaft, but that is b/c of the t-5 and rear swap
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1968 Mustang Coupe with 331 stroker, Explorer 8.8" rear-3.73 Posi, '88 T-5,hydraulic clutch, dual Flowmaster exhaust, 4-wheel discs!
Hmm, I am very interested in the 8.8 swap on a 65 mustang. The 9" rear ends, even used ones, seem to be stupid expensive. Where as an 8.8" can be had for $350 or less.
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05 - Zeon body kit, Saleen S/C, 3.6" pully, 90mm MAF, L/T Heders, Catted X-Pipe, Saleen Race Craft suspension, Axel brace, Pan hard bar. More to come this spring from my friends at PMP and Larry H.
65 - Street force coil over front suspension, Wilwood disk breaks at all 4 wheels, More construction in progress! More to come this spring from Simons Auto & Restoration!
There's a lot of work in this project. You'll need to shorten the tubes and install the flanges for a 9" which will allow you to use the 9" axle bearings and to eliminate the failure prone "C" clips which retain the original axles. The 9" bearing's rollers don't ride on the axle shaft like an 8.8, which have a tendency to eat into the axles with time and wear.
The tubes will need to be welded to the center section to prevent rotation of the center section. This can be tricky because of the two different metals, cast iron and steel. Spring pads need to be welded in at the correct angle, the pinion yoke will need changing to fit the drive shaft.
The c clips are not failure prone, either the axle has to break or the carrier has to come apart for the shaft to come out, the clips don't just magically fail. If you are worried about it moser and superior gear and axle both sell c clip eliminator kits for them.
Also the center section is not cast iron, its cast steel. You can simply use a high nickle rod to weld the two together without any problems.
So even an explorer 8.8 rear end would have to have the axle tubes shortened? New take off sells 05+ mustang 8.8 rear ends for around 350, and I know those would have to be shortened.
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05 - Zeon body kit, Saleen S/C, 3.6" pully, 90mm MAF, L/T Heders, Catted X-Pipe, Saleen Race Craft suspension, Axel brace, Pan hard bar. More to come this spring from my friends at PMP and Larry H.
65 - Street force coil over front suspension, Wilwood disk breaks at all 4 wheels, More construction in progress! More to come this spring from Simons Auto & Restoration!
Yes, from what I've seen one side will need to be shortened. Still have not done mine, I'm waiting to get the money to do the shortening. The main reason for the shortening is the offset of over 2".
I want to swap in an exploder 8.8 for the 3.73 and posi. I was reading some places that you can just leave the offset of the pinion alone and its fine. I know I would need to move the perches but I really want to know if I can really leave the pinion offset alone, or I won't consider this mod.
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My Cars:
1965 Mustang Coupe A code
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Orvis Edition
1992 Chevy Lumina Eurosport
Car Craft did this swap in their Nov. '07 issue. Their cost with junkyard parts was $350 !! They called it " a very durable rearend that will live even behind a big-block".
An 8.8 from a fox body is an easier swap. A mere 2 inches wider, just use late model wheels. Fit like a glove.
Do you have to shorten the axel tubes at all? What about the pinion offset?
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05 - Zeon body kit, Saleen S/C, 3.6" pully, 90mm MAF, L/T Heders, Catted X-Pipe, Saleen Race Craft suspension, Axel brace, Pan hard bar. More to come this spring from my friends at PMP and Larry H.
65 - Street force coil over front suspension, Wilwood disk breaks at all 4 wheels, More construction in progress! More to come this spring from Simons Auto & Restoration!
what rear end do you have in your mustang now?
whats wrong with the rear end?
I recommend going with the 8 inch or 9 inch they are easier to work on and are more widely used....I also dont think a 8.8 is much stronger than an 8 inch and its way I mean way harder to work on.
