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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 11-18-2008   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation after sitting for years

ok so my cousin got a 65 289 from my uncle for his 16th birthday and it has a freshly rebuilt engine and tranny but right after the engine was rebuilt(about 7 years ago) it had bad electrical problems. it needs new wiring loom. my cousin ordered it and its on its way. im going to be helping him clean up the car and get it running asap but since its been sitting for almost 8 years what should be looked at and or replaced? im thinking all belts and hoses along with suspension and tires. anything you can pointout to help us avoid problems once its up and running we will appriciate it alot!
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1995 SVT COBRA:K&N Intake, chip'd, short shifter, underdrive pulleys<smog pump delete>,Full MSD ignition, Shortyheaders, 2.5 in from the engine back O/R H pipe followed by flowmaster40's, tracklok rearend w/4.10 gears, Mishhimoto aluminum radiator,aluminum driveshaft, strut tower brace, subframe connectors, Eibach pro-springs and sway bars. KYB GR2's upfront & Gas-a-just in the rear,

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Unread 11-18-2008   #2 (permalink)
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Check the the rear end dope when you change all the other fluids. Check the entire brake system too as they might have become stuck and rusted depending upon how it was stored...the wheel cylinders especially.
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Unread 11-18-2008   #3 (permalink)
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ok will do, i think were redoing the breaks soon
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1995 SVT COBRA:K&N Intake, chip'd, short shifter, underdrive pulleys<smog pump delete>,Full MSD ignition, Shortyheaders, 2.5 in from the engine back O/R H pipe followed by flowmaster40's, tracklok rearend w/4.10 gears, Mishhimoto aluminum radiator,aluminum driveshaft, strut tower brace, subframe connectors, Eibach pro-springs and sway bars. KYB GR2's upfront & Gas-a-just in the rear,

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Unread 11-18-2008   #4 (permalink)
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It probably goes without saying, but check all the fluids including antifreeze and flush out the radiator so the car doesn't overheat. If the car has power steering, I'd replace the power steering fluid. If your replacing the brakes you will of course have new fluid, but if you don't, replace the brake fluid, as it retains moisture. I'd also drain the gas tank and fill up with new gas. The new gas will take a toll on rubber hoses, so I would inspect those and replace any that are questionable. Same with vacumn hoses, inspect and replace. Also inspect the tires. Hopefully, it wasn't sitting on the tires for all those years.
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Unread 11-18-2008   #5 (permalink)
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well it was actually sitting on and old worn set of whitewalls but my cousin likes my rims and tires so is upgrading to a set of 17in bullit rims and lower profile tires. can anybody give me a reasonable price for rims and tires for the 65?
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Unread 11-18-2008   #6 (permalink)
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I'd get the car running first, before shelling out big $$$ for billet aluminum rims.

I'd start like this:
-change the oil and filter
-drain the gas tank, if rust comes out with the gas, I'd consider replacing the tank - only about $100
-blow out the fuel lines from the tank to fuel pump (disconnect from fuel pump first)and line to the carb
-change the fuel filter
-flush the coolant system including the heater core (it could be full of crap too)
-replace radiator and bypass hoses
-change oil / filter in transmission
-check oil in rearend gearbox
-grease it (there's about a dozen grease points on my '67)
-check the brakes and service as necessary

That'll keep you busy for a while.

Good Luck!
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1992 Bronco - 302 EFI Auto
1974 24' Lyman Biscayne
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Unread 11-18-2008   #7 (permalink)
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the car will start up the engine was just rebuilt but the wiring loom went out, as soon as its in the car will run but we need to make it drivable. he has the money to get it that way and to buy the rims and tires but we cant seem to find any bullit style rims and tires for a reasonable price
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Unread 11-18-2008   #8 (permalink)
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I see you are in Pasadena - my sister used to live on San Pasqual Street.

Pasadena is a classic Mustang town, with hundreds of them all over the city!

My list is for maintenance after the car has been sitting for so long.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself, into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill

1967 Mustang Convertible - 289-4V w/C4
1992 Bronco - 302 EFI Auto
1974 24' Lyman Biscayne
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Unread 11-18-2008   #9 (permalink)
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i live about 2 blocks up from san pasqual and my cousin lives around the block. pasadena is a huge mustng city there are 4 jus on my block

mine,mycousins 65,my grandmas 66 and a neighbor has an 02 gt
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Unread 11-18-2008   #10 (permalink)
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The first time I went to Pasadena, my sister got pissed at me for saying "Mustang" every few minutes. I counted around 40 (pre '74) Mustangs in one day, just riding around Pasadena. It being a college town helps. I found my '67 in Studio City in 1993, while I was staying in Pasadena.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself, into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill

1967 Mustang Convertible - 289-4V w/C4
1992 Bronco - 302 EFI Auto
1974 24' Lyman Biscayne
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Unread 11-18-2008   #11 (permalink)
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yeah t i love this town its very historical and lots of nice old muscle cars around here, my dream is to one day own a classic and current muscle car performance shop here in town. i dont want to work on anything but muscle cars
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Unread 12-21-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Don't forget about the metal brake lines themselves. Mine was parked in 82 and not touched until I bought it this past May. Plus the brake lines had rest in them.
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Unread 12-22-2008   #13 (permalink)
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also double check and i'd clean the emergency brake lines they get dirt in them and stuff all the time. I'd say california is nice but i aint going cuz my car doesn't pass emission stuff there.
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Unread 01-07-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Default Rusty car startup

Dont forget the heater core and a/c core if equipped. Run the heater on full max for a while and check the engine compartment drain line for drips. If it drips, you'll need a new core. Also check the drain after the car cools down. If car has a/c you will definately need to recharge. Be sure to evacuate the system before adding refrigerant. Unless you plan to show concours, go ahead and change to R134 and simplify your problems. It would be beneficial to add dye to the system so you can find the leaks certain to be there.
Also check all lube joints and give the car a thorough inspection preferably on a lift. Get under there and give it a good going over.

After you get it running, check the side rails in front of the rear wheels. They tend to pick up salt, sand, and other road crud and hold it. It makes a bad rust problem if there is an opening in the rails. Check all floorboards and treat rust areas. Dont forget the trunk area. Good luck,
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