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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 01-13-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default New alternator in a 1968 mustang

Hey i have a 68 coupe and i would like to put a new alternator in it. The problem is that i dont know how much power i will need. I have the standard amp alternator in there right now and it just cant meet the power demand. I have a newer radio with speakers, and i want to put an A/C system in there. Do you think a 100 amp or a little higher would get the job done. I would rather have a little bit extra power instead of hardley enough. I would also like to be able to get it at auto zone because its my daily driver and i really need all parts of my car to work, so which one would you guys suggest? BTW im not against getting it at mustangs unlimited if i have to.

Thanks.
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-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
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Unread 01-14-2009   #2 (permalink)
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first: i suggest NAPA over autozone. Napa can provide you with much more information and better service usually.

IF you know the current amp output on your Alternator, than request one that will fit your engine build and then tell them you need one with a higher amp out-put. they'll be glad to oblige. Also, make sure to replace your external Regulator. If there's 3 wires on the alt. than it needs an external regulator. if there's only 1, it's most likely internally regulated and you won't need one.

Also, a coil with higher output would help out as well, may I suggest an MSD Blaster2. It has a 120 amps to offer i believe.

best of luck
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Unread 01-14-2009   #3 (permalink)
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I have installed a 100amp large case alt. from a mid 70's full size LTD, Lincoln, etc. It fit perfectly with my stock mounts and just needed a 1/2" longer belt I believe it was. It uses the exact same VR as the stock mustang 43A-62A. I bought the wire plug to go with the alt and just matched the wires up and crimped them in. It's easy to match the wires, they're labeled on each alt. by +,-, stator and field.

I also plan A/C, stereo w/amp, 55W driving lights, rear window defroster, etc. so I needed the extra amps. I haven't added all that yet but it works perfectly so far.

I know of no parts store that you can walk into and say, 'I have a 63A stock alt., please give me the next biggest' 63A is as big as that stock casing ever came. You will find 100A alt. built into the 63A casing on ebaay but it is too small and will overheat and burn out in short order. I have spoken with 3 private alternator rebuilders and they have all stated this, the casing is simply not big enough to extract all that heat or have large enough heat sinks.

You can also rewire to remove the VR and install a later model 1 wire alt. (120A and up usually), search the web for this, it has been done many times with instructions.

I find that parts store information and service always depends on the person behind the counter. I primarily use O'Reilly's since the counter people are more helpful and they can get name brand parts I want like Raybestos brakes same day/next day for no charge and if it's not what I want they send it back no charge.
Jon
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Unread 01-14-2009   #4 (permalink)
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nice setup jonk!
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Unread 01-14-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks, I wanted more amps but didn't want to yank all the wires, wanted it to stay stock looking still to the casual observer.
I'm about to pull the engine for a rebuild, I'll clean up all the wiring then, move the batt. to the trunk, etc. so it'll get a lot neater. Just wanted to hook it up and make sure it worked for now. I used a trimmed down 90* rubber coil boot to cover the + post that sticks out the top of the alt. so I wouldn't accidentally ground it with a wrench while working on it.

I used to live in Slidell, LA and drive to work in Gulfport/Biloxi, do they still have the huge yearly car show all down the strip?
Jon
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Unread 01-14-2009   #6 (permalink)
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oh yea! had almost 5000 cars this past october. and lots of mustangs.
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Unread 01-14-2009   #7 (permalink)
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thanks for the info guys im going to try to get this stuff done this weekend.
__________________
-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
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Unread 01-14-2009   #8 (permalink)
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do you guys think that this alternator would work in my car? NAPAONLINE®
__________________
-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Unread 01-15-2009   #9 (permalink)
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That's the model I used, the link states it's a 90A, the 100A is the same size, looks like it states elsewhere that that part # is 100A? I'd ask at the store to verify. Might as well get the highest amp possible.

I lucked out and found mine on fleabay with shipping for less than the core charge locally, it was never installed and I had it tested before installing.

Call a few parts stores near you to get prices with core charge, they may take your old small alt. for a partial trade on the core since they just ship them back for rebuild. I would suggest getting a remanufactured (lifetime warr. vs. rebuilt (1yr.) whereever you buy it. Remans. have more parts replaced new, rebuilt they only change what wore out.
The 9 O'clock position for the plug as in the picture will point it towards the solenoid, that's the one I chose, get the pigtail for it while you're there, makes wiring easier.
Test fit it but I believe I had to go 1/2 or 1" longer on the belt to reach since the casing is bigger. Bottom adj. bracket is almost all the way out and needed to be tiltled down slightly to line up with alt. hole, used the same spacer on top mount as the original alt. Getting the right belt length was most important so that the lower radiator hose won't touch it, 1/2" difference in belts made it either very close or clearing fine so I picked up 3 sizes 1/2" apart from each other and returned the other 2 after.
Jon
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