Discuss No key for my 1968 Mustang Coupe on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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You have 2 options. First is plan A- You can have a lock smith come out and cut a key for the lock. It takes about 30 minutes- 1 hour and if you don't have AAA or insurance, its like $70.
Now for plan B
Your second choice is to buy new lock cylinder and key sets and install them yourself. This involves pulling off the steering wheel. As a safety feature, Ford made it so that you need to have a key in the lock and have it turned to the "on" position to pull the lock out of the steering column. And since you don't have the old key to remove the lock cylinder, you may have to use a drill to drill out the lock tumblers before you can remove the old ignition lock.
The good news is that the trunk isn't nearly as hard, as you won't need the old key. To get into the trunk, you can to go in by laying down the back seats and opening the trunk from the inside. There are only a couple of screws and a clip holding the lock cylinder to the inside of the trunk lid.
So, if you want to take the easy way out, get the locksmith. If you want to save a little of money, kill some time, and get new locks in the process, take plan B.
I'd check a couple of manuals before taking the above advice-- the 68 ignition isn't in the steering column. If you have the key it is easy to replace the ignition cylinder -- but not so good for the doors -- and you probably want them the same. The locksmith is probably the cheaper option -- a new lockset for ignition and doors will run about 25.00 from Mustangs unlimited, Virginia Classic Mustang or CJ's. To replace the cylinders in the doors, you have to remove the trim panels, etc. Someone may have a way to defeat removing the ignition cylinder -- but I haven't read about one. The locksmith seems the safest bet -- then you won't mess anything up -- for sure.
1968 C-Code Coupe -- All stock except for a 20 yo repaint. Royal Maroon Maroon Interior / Bench <33K original miles
2008 GT/CS Convertible Mods: FRPP Strut Tower Brace / FRPP X-Pipe / FRPP Short Throw Shifter (Hurst) / FRPP CAK & Tune / Steeda Ultra Lites / Tokico D-Specs / Steeda HD Strut Tower Brace / LCA's / G-Trac Brace / HD Adjustible Panhard Bar / Rear Sway Bar + End Links/Steeda Stainless Brake Lines / DBA Rotors / Hawk Pads / Webelectric sequentials/ one touch top /rear windows
The ignition cylinder is easy to remove. They make a tool that fits into the 3 grooves in the trim ring or what ever its called and you just unscrew it. Mine was actually pretty loose and I was able to remove it by hand.
68 Coupe frame off restomod. 4.6 DOHC, IRS, Air suspension......... If a 96 Mark VIII had it so will the mustang.
Quick clarification on what everyone's suggesting - the ignition and door locks are typically supposed to be the same and you can buy them all as a set as suggested. The trunk is a separate key, replace it by itself by getting the trunk lock replacement kit as suggested. If you don't want to replace door locks and don't mind having three different keys for the car (ignition, door locks, and trunk lock) you can buy just the ignition by itself.
2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Traded for 2012 V-6
2012 V-6 - premium "Pony Package" edition. Leased, so no mods. Traded up for 2013 5.0
2013 5.0 - premium package, visual mods for now.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, Caltracs draglink bars, hedman headers, disc brakes, MSD 6, paxton supercharger, and probably a bunch of other stuff I forgot to mention. It's loud as hell, and my new toy