[65mustang6]

My 65 mustang's backend was way to high. 16.5" from middle of wheel to start of fender lip. I searched far and wide and it looked like the only way to lower the backend was to either buy mid/reverse eye spring or use lowering blocks. As has been discuss before lowering blocks cause wheel hop and other issues, I would have also needed to buy 2.5"-3" lowering blocks... yuck...

Buying new springs to replace perfectly good springs just to lower the car was not logical to me. So in my search I found the following link lowering rear of car w/o blocks (long) - Mustang Forums at StangNet.

I figure the original idea came from Opentracker who knows much more about Mustangs than I ever would so what the hell.

The results? I lowered the car from 16.5" to 12.5" by reversing 2 springs. This was too low so I put one of the two springs I reverse back in its original location and the car's backend now sit a 13.5". The backend is still quite stiff so I my fear of reduced stiffness was not realized.

I only removed the spring from the rear shackle because of the stories of rusted front bolts. It would be easier if the springs were removed completely.

Here are some picture of the procedure if anyone is interested.

Picasa Web Albums - Jorge - Lowering BackEnd

[rocky289]

I would be a little worried that one of the reversed leaves may break.
I bet you had some fun tightening those cramps.

[65mustang6]

It really wasn't bad clamping the springs. Once I did the first one the next only took me between 60-90 minutes.

There are some guys that have run their springs reversed for a couple of years with out any problems. Opentracker from Opentracker Racing Products came up with the idea so who am I to question it... It saved my $200 and the backend seems as stiff as it was before.

[dbrowne]

The second and 3rd mains are not really doing anything now.I would be concerned with the main leaf now that it is unsupported.Long - term that is