how do I bleed brakes on my 1967 mustang - Ford Mustang Forum

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009 Thread Starter
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how do I bleed brakes on my 1967 mustang

hello all..... I need to learn how to bleed the brakes on my 1967 mustang. Any description or web site telling or showing how this is done will be greatly appreciated.. thanks for any help rendered.


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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009
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Is this in reference to differences in bleeding vintage mustang brakes vs modern/other brakes. If so, there's nothing out of the ordinary. Or are you asking how to bleed brakes in general?

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009 Thread Starter
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hi player...thanks for ur reply... I have a 67 mustang. the car has been sitting for several years...all of the break fluid in the master is gone. I want to replace the fluid and remove all air in the short answer is I want to bleed the brakes in my 67 mustang
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-19-2009
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I don't have a handy link but you can search for 'brake bleeding procedure'. I would suggest you get the shop manual for your car, I have the same car, the manual is <$50 and I use it weekly at least to look up how to fix things, torque settings, etc. You will use it a lot.
Basically you fill the MC and put the cap back on, loosen the bleeder screw at the cylinder (go from farthest from MC to closest last - RR, LR, FR, FL). Have someone pump the brake while you have a clear hose with a clear jar to catch the fluid and when you have pumped ~half the fluid out of the MC you need to close the valve while they are on the downstroke with the pedal. It's a lot easier with a Mityvac (~$30) as you can do it alone and it uses pressure to draw the fluid through the lines.
The main thing is to not let the MC run dry when bleeding. If the MC has been empty I'd start by bleeding it alone, you'll need temp fittings that they sell at parts stores, ask for a MC bench bleedning kit.

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009
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You may need a new master cylinder as well. If you have a lot of time and patience, the easiest, less effort method is to gravity bleed them.

Put the car on stands, open all the bleeder valves and fill the master up. Check every hour or two and keep the master cylinder full.

Time it right and close the bleeder valves when the fluid is running from all cylinders. Start with the rear passenger side then rear drivers, then passenger front, driver's front last. You want to close the longest line runs first, in other words.

You can also buy a bleeder kit from your local parts store and follow the directions.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009
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Hi Norm,

I found the following info on the Autozone site, I bought a one-person bleeding system (less than $ 10) pretty useful and simple to use:

The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system; there are two methods of accomplishing this. The quickest and easiest of the two is pressure-bleeding, but special pressure equipment is needed to externally pressurize the hydraulic system. The other, more commonly used, method is gravity bleeding.
Master cylinders equipped with bleed screws may be bled independently. When bleeding the Bendix type dual master cylinder, it is necessary to solidly cap one reservoir section while bleeding the other to prevent pressure loss through the cap vent hole.
Disc brakes may be bled in the same manner as drum brakes, except that:
  1. Brakes should be bled in this order: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system should be discarded.

  1. It usually requires a longer time to bleed a disc brake thoroughly.
  2. The disc should be rotated to make sure that the piston has returned to the unapplied position when bleeding is completed and the bleed screw closed.

Pressure-bleeding disc brakes will close the metering valve; the front brakes will not bleed. For this reason it is necessary to manually hold the metering valve open during pressure-bleeding. Never use a block or clamp to hold the valve open and never force the valve stem beyond its normal position. Two different types of valves are used. The most common type requires the valve stem to be held in while bleeding the brakes, while the second type requires the valve stem to be held out (0.060 inch minimum travel). Determine the type by visual inspection.
Since the front and rear hydraulic systems are independent, if it is known that only one system contains air, only that system has to be bled.
  1. Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
  2. Install a 3 / 8 inch box-end wrench on the bleeder screw on the right rear wheel.
  3. Push a piece of small diameter rubber tubing over the bleeder screw until it is flush against the wrench. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly.
  4. Have a friend apply pressure to the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and observe the bottle of brake fluid. If bubbles appear in the glass jar, it means there is air in the system. When your friend has pushed the pedal to the floor, immediately close the bleeder screw before he releases the pedal.
  5. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
  6. Repeat this procedure on the left rear, right front, and left front wheels, in that order. Periodically refill the master cylinder so it does not run dry.
  7. On 1970-1973 models, if the brake warning light is on, depress the brake pedal firmly. If there is no air in the system, the light will go out.

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