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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 03-27-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1966 Mustang clicking noise coming from rear end

Ticking noise coming from rear end , starts at rolling speed, would it make that sound if the gear oil was low? I believe its the original rear.

What rear ends are compatible with the 66, any recommendations?

How do I know if its a 9" ?


1966 289 c4 coupe
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Unread 03-27-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Hello. Being low on fluid certainly could cause it to start making a variety of funny noises. On a 9 inch, you can't easily get a socket wrench on the bottom two nuts holding the center section, on an 8 inch, you can. Which rear axle assemblies which are compatible would depend on how compatible you are talking about. There are several that will work with some minor modifications.
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Unread 03-27-2009   #3 (permalink)
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I vote for the fluid also. Had a "strange" noise coming from the rear also last year, found that my rear oil was like sludge. Drained it out, filled it with new Rear fluid, 80/90 weight I believe it was, and luckily, the noise went away.

Most likely, your rear is an 8", that was the most common size.
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Unread 03-27-2009   #4 (permalink)
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called a shop and they said to check the U joint and see if it moves left or right, seems to be very tight. So they say it might be the 3rd member. Called around and places charging me around 800 for a rebuild. Should I just go buy a whole used rear end? Some mustang yard is charging me 450 w/ 100 day guarantee. Money is tight. Whats the best way to go?

its a sharp and very clear tick, and goes along with the speed of the car.
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Unread 03-27-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Hi there,

I don't like the buy and try method of identifying problems. IMO it would be best to identify the problem first then fix it.

I would put the car up on axel stands (good strong ones front and rear), start it up, put it in gear and get under it and listen.

Obviously this could be hazardous to your health if you get yourseld caught up in the moving parts so be carefull.

You may find the problem is: brakes, tyres, axel bearings, transmission etc ....

Steve
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Unread 03-27-2009   #6 (permalink)
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yea i got the rear end up and ran it, and the clicking noise sounds like its coming from the diff. I checked the gear oil and its full , right below the fill hole. Do i need to replace it? if its not low?
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Unread 03-27-2009   #7 (permalink)
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The way to replace the fluid is to remove the punkin as there is no drain in an 8" diff, i guess you then get to have the thing looked at.

Silver69 did a good jo of explaining the removal of the punkin from the housing here: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...-end-swap.html

Once you have it out you can take a look at the remaining oil in the case, if there are lots of chunks of metal hanging around in the oil in the case then there is a good chance that something is wrong.

I pulled mine a while ago as there was a lot of backlash, here is what was inside when the guy at the diff shop pulled it apart:

I then had an LSD put in (i don't trust myself with diffs to do it myself) and right now i am swapping to 3.5:1 gears so i can wear my tyres out faster (or should i say the guy at the diff shop is changing them over).

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Unread 03-27-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Moving a U joint left to right may not tell you if it's bad. Before you go shelling out $$$ for a diff rebuild, BTW he's ripping you off at that price, pull the drive shaft and inspect the bearings and cups. Be careful those needle bearings are a booger to get back in. Just make sure the cups fit nice and snug on the joint itself.
Sound can travel through different components in strange ways. I would do all of the obvious stuff before spending a bunch o money. Pull the drums and check for pieces that could be clicking around in there. Check the axle bearings for play. Does it do it in reverse? Check the ring and pinion gears for a chipped or cracked tooth. Spider gears can cause a bunch of weird stuff to happen from noises to causing your tires to squeal. But they are cheap and don't require taking the diff apart
Doing a diff rebuild on an open diff is simple and not hard at all. I know a whole bunch of guys that will build an entire car but won't mess with a diff. Don't be intimidated by it and pay attention to the specs for backlash and pinion depth. The rest is just turning wrenches.
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Unread 03-28-2009   #9 (permalink)
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My vote is still with U-Joints. The internal needle bearings in the bearing caps may be fine, but the caps themselves may be shifting in the yoke portions of the drive shaft, creating the noise.

Try this. Go under the car and douse the U-joint caps with a penetrating oil, WD-40, Deep Creep or PB Blaster, whichever you have. Spray down all 4 caps on both ends as they sit mounted in place. Give the penetrant a few minutes to soak in and then drive the car or test it on stands. See if the ticking goes away.
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Unread 03-28-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Early mustangs did not come with 9" rears unless it was a Shelby...the way to visually spot them is they are completely round on the bottom while the 8" is kinda flattened
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Unread 03-28-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Greek View Post
My vote is still with U-Joints. The internal needle bearings in the bearing caps may be fine, but the caps themselves may be shifting in the yoke portions of the drive shaft, creating the noise.

Try this. Go under the car and douse the U-joint caps with a penetrating oil, WD-40, Deep Creep or PB Blaster, whichever you have. Spray down all 4 caps on both ends as they sit mounted in place. Give the penetrant a few minutes to soak in and then drive the car or test it on stands. See if the ticking goes away.
ok so im going to go the cheaper route first, so i just sprayed the U joint caps with wd40 , and will be bringing in the car into a friends transmission shop on moday, said he'll check it out for free.

But yea ill just pin point the problem first before spending money that i dont even have.

any other advice? thanks again guys
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Unread 03-28-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Default jack it up...

Block the front wheels. Put a jack under the differential and lift the rear axle off the ground enough to rotate the wheels by hand. Put the transmission in neutral and rotate the one side and then the other listening for the noise. You can check the "spider" gears (the ones the axles spline into) with this. If you hear the noise chances are that one or more of the teeth are broken off.
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Unread 03-28-2009   #13 (permalink)
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ok things are looking up, I sprayed the U joint caps with wd-40 and the sound disappeared. So hopefully that will solve it. Should I just change both u joint out for preventative maintenance? or " if it aint broke dont fix it?
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Unread 03-28-2009   #14 (permalink)
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That's what I would do. Get a front and rear ujoint and replace them both. You can get them at Napa, that's where I get a surprising amount of hard parts for my 66.
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Unread 03-28-2009   #15 (permalink)
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which U joint do I get? theres a whole bunch of them listed at kragen's web site. Does Napa have a more specific one for my model? if so, do you have the part # ?
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