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Old 03-31-2009   #1 (permalink)
tedsxb is offline Rookie


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Default Stock carb for a 66 mustang 289?

Ive been working on my friends 66 mustang with the original 289 4bbl engine and 3 speed manual. I want to know what the numbers are for a stock carb since I want to rebuild the carb thats on it (still has an untouched stock carb). It starts and runs, but it definitely needs an accelerator pump and im sure a good cleaning and gaskets. thanks
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Old 03-31-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Hello. There were 29 different Autolite 4100 4bbl carbs used on the 65/66 Mustangs that came with a 289. If you look on the driver's side of the base of the carb, on the front ear that the mounting stud goes through, there will be a designation stamped on the side, like 6Z D, for example. To fill in the blanks and get the part number for the carb that's on the car right now, the first digit will be C, next will be the first two digits stamped on the carb, giving you C6Z. The next digit will be F, giving you C6ZF. The group number that tells Ford's people that this a carburetor, and not a driveshaft or something, is 9510, so that gives you C6ZF-9510, and the last digit (or two) is the engineering change level of this particular carb, giving you C6ZF-9510-D. That is the part number for the carb. You can take that to any major auto parts chain store and get the right rebuild kit for the car. There were only a couple of kits for the 4100s, though. But, there were a whole bunch of different float settings, jet sizes, etc... This number will also let you find the specs on this carb in the factory shop manual. Hope that helps.
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Old 04-01-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veronica View Post
There were only a couple of kits for the 4100s, though. But, there were a whole bunch of different float settings, jet sizes, etc...
I think its worst than that. From all the research I did a couple of months ago there is only ONE company that makes a kit for the 4100 and they really only make ONE kit. At various different retailers you will get a different box with a few different parts in it, but they are all basically the same and all made by the Standard Motor Parts Co, Long Island City, NY. All the old names in carb kits have all been bought up and now belong to Standard. Let’s hope Standard stays in business!!

If you don't mind waiting a few days a special order from Autozone gets you a kit with a few more parts in and it only cost $17 plus shipping. Instead of having more than one kit, they have all the parts for all the 4100s in the same box so there isn’t any doubt about which kit you need. It comes labeled as a GP-Sorenson which, per the Standard website is one of their brand names along with Echelin, Niehoff, BWD and anybody else you can think of. If you want it quicker, you get nearly the same set of parts anywhere else but for more $$.

The kits usually have the specs you need included in the box but a shop manual is always a good thing to have as a check. I posted an earlier thread about an error in the Ford instructions for setting the choke. Turns out that was covered by Ford TSB #41 of 7/1/66 but it still hasn't make it into the instructions for many of the kits. If you are using a Ford shop manual from 65 or 66 its wrong. The correct adjustment sequence of the steps in those manuals for the 2100, or 4100 automatic choke plate should be 1,4,5,6,7,2,3,8.
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Old 04-01-2009   #4 (permalink)
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I had another paragraph to add but someone's server went down and prevented me from making an edit. Here 'tis:

I also had an earlier thread asking about the vacuum secondary ball check valve in a 4100. Since then I have discovered that too was covered somewhat by Ford TSB’s in 1964. There was originally not only a ball bearing (of unspecified diameter) but a spring and a retainer in the secondary vacuum passage on the back of the 4100. This caused engine overspeed when the throttle was closed quickly since the secondaries couldn’t close fast enough. The remedy was to throw away the retainer and spring and drill out the restriction in the vacuum passage to 1/16” (mine measured 0.055" which is almost 1/16). Apparently many, if not most mechanics/owners threw the ball away also since few of the 4100s seem to still have a ball bearing in that place. On the other end of this vacuum circuit the small pickup tube that sticks into the primary venturi is also supposed to be adjusted to be 0.040” away from the rear wall of the primary booster venturi. No manuals I have seen mention any of these details.
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Old 04-06-2009   #5 (permalink)
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I rebuilt 3 4100s to find they all leaked badly (vacuum) at the throttle shafts. Brass shaft against bare aluminum carb body - no bushings!

I have a sticky accelerator pump check valve in my Holley 4160 but at least the shafts don't leak!
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