Ok, so I have a 1968 coupe and the front sits a lot higher than the front. There is a lot of room between the top of the tire to the fender. I want to lower the car to make it look better. Which approach should I use and has someone here done it before and which product was used. Thanks
Ok, so I have a 1968 coupe and the front sits a lot higher than the front. There is a lot of room between the top of the tire to the fender. I want to lower the car to make it look better. Which approach should I use and has someone here done it before and which product was used. Thanks
How many fronts do you have?
Just kidding, I'm guessing the front sits higher than the back?
Everyone sure jumped on that typo fast...aren't we brutal..?
I have a '67 and wanted the TransAm series look so I replaced the stock front springs with 1" drop 560 springs (did the Arning/Shelby 1" drop at the same time) and my car with 15" wheels has the tire tread almost level with the fender lip. That puts the center of the fender lip ~ 25" off the ground, my rear matches as I installed 4 1/2 mideye leafs.
Without the Arning/Shelby drop I believe my height would be 1/4"-1/2" higher.
Jon
__________________
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
so I replaced the stock front springs with 1" drop 560 springs (did the Arning/Shelby 1" drop at the same time)
Jon[/quote]
springs and Arning/Shelby (upper control arm) drop both done at the same time. hope that helps. Curtis
Each cars front and rear springs will sag at different amounts so it's hard to compare how high one car is to another with the stock springs, I find it easier to compare what height each persons car is at after they installed new stock, 1" drop, etc. springs and tire size on the car for a better idea of where you should end up. As stated with 15" tires the top apex of my fender lip is ~25", it would probably be ~25 1/2" with just the 1" spring change.
The Arning (Ford engineer who figured it out)/ Shelby (started using it on the 65? race Shelbys) is drilling holes with a template 1" lower for mounting your Upper Control Arms (UCA), most people do this when changing their worn out UCA for new ones as it improves the steering by putting the tires flatter on the ground, you then have to realign to Shelby specs, works on '65-68+ yrs. There is a good explaination of it here as well as Mustang suspension in general, he also sells the template/drill bit: DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70 DazeCars, Suspension 101
If you just want it lower I'd just change the springs for now (rent an inside the spring compressor = safer than outside mount). If you rebuild the suspension (LCA, UCA, spring perches, etc.) then I would include the Arning/Shelby drop, it's worth it.
Jon
__________________
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Be careful how much you lower it. I dropped mine and then I started slamming my tranny on speed bumps and had to enter driveways sideways. It was so annoying. What you should do is get shorter springs and larger rims/tires. You can put blocks in the back and a fat sway bar. Believe it or not, but air shocks in the rear come in handy. Ofcourse, the ultimate is Hydraulics!
Last edited by Mexstang; 03-31-2009 at 11:02 PM.
Reason: typo