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Old 04-22-2009   #1 (permalink)
Dieselman is offline Apprentice

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Default Product review request......

Hi all........

Hopefully, this is in the right section.

I'm looking into purchasing a vacuum assisted brake bleeder. More specifically, the Mityvac MV6830. I have been using the two person method for too long and need to do this by myself.

Has anyone used this?
Is it a good product?

Is there a better product you have used.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
George
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Old 04-22-2009   #2 (permalink)
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i use the boy next door

hes free


lol but this sounds cool. sounds like you could use it for alot more than brakes.


i know i used a similar item on clutches on bikes
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Old 04-22-2009   #3 (permalink)
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LOL, I don't have anyone close by I can use like a rented mule! My daughter is going off to college, so I lose that help....

Doing more research. Yes, these types of bleeders/evacuators can be used for clutches, rearend housing, etc. Just about anything you need to suck liquid out of......well, almost anything! lol
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2001 Dodge Cummins Dually

quote from the Greek
"I haven't had my engine on a dyno, but it's probably around 300HP at the crank or maybe a little more. I don't really know for sure, but if it was World War II, you could say that I've sunk the Japanese Fleet in my neighborhood. Remember Pearl Harbor!"
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Old 04-22-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Don't know the model # I have but I've used my Mityvac on many occasions, checked manifold vac, checked dist. vac., draw fluids out. It's great for bleeding brakes for me, wife won't come out to help and it draws like 15-20 psi, makes quick work of getting fluid through the lines. Catch canister is just big enough to hold enough fluid until I have to refill the MC and start again. Also it doesn't fall over like the glass jar I used to use...
Jon
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Old 04-22-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks Jon.........just the sort of response I was hoping to get.
The model I listed has the fill canister as part of the package. Prices are all over also. I have seen as low as $118 and as high as $190 for the same model number........
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1965 289 3 spd Rustang
2001 Dodge Cummins Dually

quote from the Greek
"I haven't had my engine on a dyno, but it's probably around 300HP at the crank or maybe a little more. I don't really know for sure, but if it was World War II, you could say that I've sunk the Japanese Fleet in my neighborhood. Remember Pearl Harbor!"
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Old 04-22-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Wow, you're going high dollar with the compressor mount one, I went cheap and got the hand pump model and it's worked perfectly for me, only use it ~6mos for brake jobs and once every couple months for other stuff so squeezing the handle isn't a big bother. If you're not going to use it that often you might want to look at the manual model for ~$30:
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Jon
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'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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Old 04-22-2009   #7 (permalink)
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boy.,....you guys can sure buy stuff cheap down there
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Old 04-22-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Hello. If you are going to be using it on a very regular basis, it's ok. Personally, I have found that it is actually a little quicker to attach a little hose to the bleeder, open the bleeder, get up and go shove the pedal down to the floor with a telescoping hood prop, jamb that against the front of the seat, go close the bleeder, go release the hood prop, go open the bleeder, etc, etc.... Those things are really, really REALLY slow, but, they do work. Also, if you use it once and just empty the brake fluid out of it and put it up, then go back to use it a couple of months later, you will probably bust the trigger handle. The brake fluid inside it does something to get the button that the trigger handle pushes stuck, and the handle snaps off. You have to suck a bunch of water through it when you are finished. And, if there is an obstruction in the line, like an accumulation of flaky, rusty crud, it won't be able to suck that out of there. At least, that's been my experience. I have one still, but, I don't use it. I use my daughter to step on the pedal, or, when she is unavailble, I can occassionally browbeat and intimidate my son into doing it. When they're both unavailable, I do the hood prop thing.
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Old 04-23-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for the additional info....
Jonk67.....I have one of those. Either mine is defective, or I am.....it doesn't work too well.

FYI, I flush the fluid in four vehicles every year, so legs get tired so I lose helpers quickly. Additionally, I need to completely re-line my Dodge pickup, so I'm thinking it will take alot to re-fill.

Veronica, is there ANYTHING you don't know? lol

I was also thinking about the Vacula version. However, at twice the cost, I wasn't sure if it would be worth it or not....

Any other ideas?

thanks again
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1965 289 3 spd Rustang
2001 Dodge Cummins Dually

quote from the Greek
"I haven't had my engine on a dyno, but it's probably around 300HP at the crank or maybe a little more. I don't really know for sure, but if it was World War II, you could say that I've sunk the Japanese Fleet in my neighborhood. Remember Pearl Harbor!"
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Old 04-23-2009   #10 (permalink)
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For $30 I bought the hand pump version. Very useful except it won't work for bleeding any brakes I have tried. The vacuum only sucks air in around the bleeder screw threads and doesn't pull any brake fluid out of the system. Still a useful widget, just not for bleeding brakes. Works great to suck out differential oil, etc.
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Old 04-23-2009   #11 (permalink)
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If your getting brake fluid into the vacuum pump/piston area, then you are doing it wrong.

The suction from the vacuum pump ..is just to suck the fluid into that 6 oz reservoir..then you stop...empty it out.... to keep it from entering the pump piston area.

It's like siphoning fuel from tank.. suck on the hose until just before the gasoline gets to your mouth
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Old 04-24-2009   #12 (permalink)
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Still researching......

I have read on other forums that some are having trouble with air bubbles, and/or lack of suction due to air entering the bleed screw through the threaded area.
Has anyone noticed this?

Additionally, I will be using this on cars/trucks equipped with ABS, and eventually for the Mustang (non-ABS). I have been seeing more and more good things about Motive Products pressure bleeder. This forces the fluid through the system rather than sucking it through......

Any thoughts, opinions, or actually user comments?
thanks
g
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1965 289 3 spd Rustang
2001 Dodge Cummins Dually

quote from the Greek
"I haven't had my engine on a dyno, but it's probably around 300HP at the crank or maybe a little more. I don't really know for sure, but if it was World War II, you could say that I've sunk the Japanese Fleet in my neighborhood. Remember Pearl Harbor!"
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Old 04-24-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Hi again. Pushing a fluid through from the front is a far, far more effective way to move a fluid than pulling it from the back.
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Old 04-24-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieselman View Post
I have read on other forums that some are having trouble with air bubbles, and/or lack of suction due to air entering the bleed screw through the threaded area.
Has anyone noticed this?
Exact problem I was talking about: air leaks in around the threads. I have never used a pressure bleeder (except pressure from someone's foot) but that would seem to be a more reliable system.

As far as ABS, my only experience is with a W124 Mercedes but that ABS system bleeds just like an old Mustang.
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Old 04-24-2009   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05horse View Post
i use the boy next door

hes free
Sounds like a creepy T-Shirt saying...
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