1965-66 Mustang 8 inch rear end identification question - Ford Mustang Forum

 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009 Thread Starter
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1965-66 Mustang 8 inch rear end identification question

I'm doing a six cylinder conversion on a 1965 Mustang. The front end components and everything is done. I purchased a rear axle and third member from Melvin's Classic Ford Parts. I know that the rear end has a 2.80 gear ratio because I counted the ring gear teeth and the pinion gear teeth and did the division. I also turned the yoke with axle shafts in place and I counted approx. 2.8 revolutions on the yoke to 1 revolution on the shafts/wheels. One thing I noticed is that both wheels turn. I had my father and brother-in-law hold them in place while I turned the yoke and both shafts grabbed. (Note: The whole axle is sitting on jack stands right now) When the right was grabbed, the left side turned and vice versa. I looked at the tag on the third member and the only two I can find said C20W-E and 4L3. There is no FORD tag for an axle code. Any help on whether this is a limited slip or not???


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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009
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Do a burn out see if you leave one mark or two lol.The axle tag is a little piece of metal about finger size on the 3rd member bolts if its gone means someone rebuild it.Since its been opened it could have had a lsd added.Since you bought it used i would pull the axles and 3rd member check everything and put new gear oil in it.While you got it open you can tell if its a lsd or not.Some times if the gear oil is old it can act like a lsd i had a truck do that before.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-23-2009 Thread Starter
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Well, the third member and axle we given to me separate. The axle is like brand new and it has new shafts, brakes (wheel cylinders, shoes, springs, etc), bearings, and other goodies. The third member was given as a separate part (not bolted to the axle). It's a low mileage piece and it's in great shape. The tag was missing for one reason b/c it only had 3 nuts holding on the old gasket. I would figure out by doing a burn out if the axle was on the car (hint: I said it was on stands). I already reassembled it, put a new gasket and sealer on, and torqued it down. I added SOME gear oil to for now, until I get ready to hook it up (I've been having to pick it up and move it myself). Is there any other way to tell besides taking it apart or doing a burn out LOL. If I do have to take it apart, what specifically do I look for (like looking for clutches or what)?

Dixie Performance Machine
Owner: Lee Severt (super nice guy)
McDonough, GA
(770) 914-RACE (7223)
They built two of my motors and did a fantastic job. They build anything from street motors to drag motors....from flathead v-8s to big block Chevy's.


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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2009
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Look at Ford nine inch differential cases + under posi it should be the same for a 8 inch as well.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2009 Thread Starter
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Awesome!!!! Thanks dude!!!

Dixie Performance Machine
Owner: Lee Severt (super nice guy)
McDonough, GA
(770) 914-RACE (7223)
They built two of my motors and did a fantastic job. They build anything from street motors to drag motors....from flathead v-8s to big block Chevy's.


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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2009
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You have another way to check. Have someone hold the pinion so that it won't rotate. Then rotate one wheel. If the wheel on the other side rotates in the SAME direction, you have a limited slip diff. If the other wheel rotates in the OPPOSITE direction, it's an open or non-LSD.

If you find that it's an LSD, don't forget to add a small bottle of friction modifier to the gear lube.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-24-2009 Thread Starter
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Well, then I have some sad news. It's an open differential. But, that will do for me.

Dixie Performance Machine
Owner: Lee Severt (super nice guy)
McDonough, GA
(770) 914-RACE (7223)
They built two of my motors and did a fantastic job. They build anything from street motors to drag motors....from flathead v-8s to big block Chevy's.


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