302 stalling out at stop lights when warm - Ford Mustang Forum

 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-27-2009 Thread Starter
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302 stalling out at stop lights when warm

I took a ride this weekend for a few hours. Everything was running great but on my way home every time I came to a stop my car would start to choke and then stall out, it was also running a bit rough whenever I was off the gas. At cruising speed all is fine. This hasn't happened before and looking for some ideas. I have a 331 with an Edelbrock carb.

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009
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Are the floats adj. on an Edelbrock? If it were a holley I'd say the floats were too high and gas was sloshing over into the throat.

Have you checked your timing? Is the vac. diaphragm in the dist. still good?
Have you tried adjusting the idle up ~100 rpms at a time?
Is the choke fully open once the car is warmed up?
How hot is the carb? might need a phenolic spacer to avoid fuel percolation.
Just some thoughts,
Jon


'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-28-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response, I should point out I know very little about these, or any other motors. The entire motor was rebuilt with a number of performance parts about 2000 miles ago and I know they used a phenolic spacer on the rebuild. I called a shop and they told me to check for vacuum leaks. Can anyone tell me how to do this? I would hate to waste money at a shop if this is a simple fix.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 04-29-2009
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First, with the car warmed up, remove the air cleaner and look down the carb. if the choke flap is mostly closed your choke isn't adjusted properly. There are probably directions on Edelbrocks website.

To check for vacuum leaks I would inspect all of your rubber lines for age, cracks when you bend them, etc. I replaced ALL of my rubber lines when I bought the car, most are 40+ yr. old rubber. If you have an auto trans. there is one at the rear of the intake and one at the end of the trans. also that rarely gets changed.
You may be able to hear a vacuum leak if the engines not too loud. If you spray ether around the intake and the RPM's pick up you've got a leak.

You can test the vac. advance to the dist. by removing the dist. cap, disconnecting the rubber hose from the carb. (not running), look inside the dist. at the arm that comes out of the vac. adv. and suck on the hose. The arm should get pulled into the vac. adv. a few mm (you'll see it move). If it doesn't your vac. adv. is bad (diaphragm on the inside dries out). You can get a replacement at the parts store <$20 or from a mustang parts vendor. Not too hard to change with a small needle nose and a pencil magnet so you don't loose the C clip.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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