[hivewax]

the original 8" rear end just gave out this morning. i guess it couldn't handle the 289 stroked 347.

i've checked 9" rear prices from Currie, Moser/Cobra Automotive, and Strange. they all are priced at ~$2300 for the housing and 3rd member (w/axles?).

i checked eBay and found Quick Performance Racing. any feedback on them are appreciated. the housing/axle packages for $650! this is compared to Currie $1050.

also, i was thinking of stinking with the stock rear drums. will they swap over?

do any think i can still use the 8" rear? i'll have to check the innards to see the damage. the car doesn't move when put in gear.

TIA

[11craig11]

does the driveshaft turn when you put it in gear

[v8only]

this is exactly why I'm going for an 8.8 from an explorer. DIrect drop in with relocated spring perches, + it has disc brakes, 31 spline rear, trak lok and 373's all for $150 + a case of beer to have my friend weld it up. THis rear will handle 500 hp all day long..why do I need a $2500 9" rear??

[Keving]

I got a 9" out of a Cougar. It bolted right up with no modification. I did put another set of gears in it, but you don't have to do that.

[hivewax]

yes, the driveshaft was spinning. some rear lube also came out the pumpkin. i'll check the local U-Pick for some donors.

[66 restomod]

Originally Posted by v8only

this is exactly why I'm going for an 8.8 from an explorer. DIrect drop in with relocated spring perches, + it has disc brakes, 31 spline rear, trak lok and 373's all for $150 + a case of beer to have my friend weld it up. THis rear will handle 500 hp all day long..why do I need a $2500 9" rear??

Are you going to cut down the long side tube to get it to be the same width? I have been debating doing a 8.8 or rebuilding my 8inch with Trak lok and 380 gears. I have not found a really good "how to" write up on the 8.8 swap into a 66. Any links or sites you have?
The 9 inch will also need to be narrowed to 66 specs. I dont think my 289 will ever put enough HP to the rear wheels to justify the cost and weight of a 9 inch conversion

Ron
http://chris66dad.tripod.com/index.html

[mccance]

just a hopeful thought for you. you should pull the wheels and make sure you did not just lose a wheel bearing. if that goes completely out it can allow the axle to slide out enough that it is no longer engaging it would only be held in by the brakes. simple matter of replacing a wheel bearing seals and races.

I had this happen to a ford pickup when I was younger. thought it was the pumpkin had the tow truck tow it home and halfway there the axle came completely out and went bouncing down the ditch. sparks flew it was a mess. simple to fix but a really embarrassing for both me and the tow truck.

[v8only]

Originally Posted by 66 restomod

Are you going to cut down the long side tube to get it to be the same width? I have been debating doing a 8.8 or rebuilding my 8inch with Trak lok and 380 gears. I have not found a really good "how to" write up on the 8.8 swap into a 66. Any links or sites you have?
The 9 inch will also need to be narrowed to 66 specs. I dont think my 289 will ever put enough HP to the rear wheels to justify the cost and weight of a 9 inch conversion

Ron
Christophers 66 Mustang Restoration and Modification

I've been doing a ton of research on this, and it's an easy swap. FYI, carcraft did this in a 67, and there is a good write up on their site with specs.

You don't need to cut an axle tube down. THere have been a ton of people to do this swap, and they all say that it wasn't necessary and haven't caused any problem. In fact, last weekend I had a personal friend do this on his 67. He didn't cut the tube down. He welded the spring perches on, had a driveshaft built and that was that..and it works great. A ton of my maverick friends have done this. On the mavericks, the ds can hit on the tunnel on bumps because it's off center, but i've not heard this on the stangs yet.

You can buy new spring perches on summit...3" with 2.5" width. put the old 8" and the new 8.8 side by side. Measure the spring perches, and the factory pinion from the old rear, and with those two specs, weld the perches onto the 8.8. pinion can be further tuned with wedges under the springs.

weld only a tiny bead side to side, or you can warp the axle tubes.

If you are real worried about the off center pumpkin then use a fox 8.8. It's got a centered pumpkin and is the exact width. FYI, for both you'lll need to run different wheels. late model 03/04 17" bullitt wheels are a direct swap with no spacers. The fox rear can be run with 5 lug drums (aerostar right side axles and ranger 5 lug drums) or sn95 brakes on aerostar axles with the northstar brackets so the brakes aren't pushed out.

My best price for a locker and gears on an 8" was still close to $1500. I can do an 8.8 that will hand more HP than an 8" and get it done for under $500 out the door by a long shot

[kens67mustang]

a 8" can be modified ,cheaply,to handle plenty of HP& Torque, even a built 390.they are just as good as ANY 8.8.,if done right, and NO external mods.

[v8only]

I have to respectfully disagree.

1. show me where I can get new gears and a trak lok unit or locker for an 8" rear for under $500 installed.

2. an explorer 8.8 rear end has 31 spline axles, trak lok AND 373 gears or 410's, or 327's or 355's..you choose (and can be bought, modified AND installed for $500 or less. that rear will handle in excess of 450-500 hp.

3. The old 8" true is under rated, but tops out on power around 300-350, and can't be upgraded to 31 spline.

unless essentially given a trak lok, or locker unit and gears, I can see no reason on this planet to waste cash upgrading an 8" rear (unless originality is a concern)....I was pulling estimates around 1000-1500 ballpark for a cheap locker and set of gears for the 8"...and that's just a waste of cash to me for something that I'm just going to blow up on the track with my sticky tires.

[racin_ryan]

I've been doing a ton of research on this, and it's an easy swap. FYI, carcraft did this in a 67, and there is a good write up on their site with specs.

I was told that the 65/66 was narrower than the later model Mustangs and that you needed a 9" specific to that width. There are some other cars Granada etc. that use that same width 9". The same would go with the 8.8. It would fit the 67's and later, but need narrowed for the earlier ones. Just what I was told.

[v8only]

The 8.8 is 2" wider than the 65/66 8"

HOWEVER, if you're running late bullitts like myself, then it's the perfect width

[mustang402]

A well put together 8" can handle up to 400 hp but not on the drag strip on a consistant basis. Will this car be seeing alot of track time? Unless I'm wrong and I just finished doing an 8" in my 67 302 which is 350HP & toploader (plenty for the street for me) Currie could upgrade the track lock or tru-trac unit for 31 spline axles but my axles were not the early narrowed tip 28 spline and were in great shape so I did not change. New trac-lock with 3:55 yukon gears total with new axle bearings,seals and lub totaled $810.00
HTH

[hivewax]

Originally Posted by mustang402

A well put together 8" can handle up to 400 hp but not on the drag strip on a consistant basis. Will this car be seeing alot of track time? Unless I'm wrong and I just finished doing an 8" in my 67 302 which is 350HP & toploader (plenty for the street for me) Currie could upgrade the track lock or tru-trac unit for 31 spline axles but my axles were not the early narrowed tip 28 spline and were in great shape so I did not change. New trac-lock with 3:55 yukon gears total with new axle bearings,seals and lub totaled $810.00
HTH

no drag strip for me, strictly street. i thought a 8" can only use 28-spline. 28 & 31 for small bearing 9". 31" & up for big bearing.