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Old 06-12-2009   #1 (permalink)
Yood is offline Rookie


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Default Disc Brake Conversion issues

Had a CSRP Swap 1 (front manual discs) installed.
Everything is as per the installation manual.
Now I find it very difficult to get the Proportioning valve to do uit's job right.

I have completely closed (the smallest fluid amount clearance) and still the rear brakes (drums) lock befor the front

Bled the heck out of the system and adjusted the rear drums.

What am I doing wrong?

Yood
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Old 06-12-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Is it because the back are locking up to early, or are the fronts just not working? If you got the front and back mixed up on the master cylinder, you could have a problem like that. Kink in the front lines? Just a couple thoughts.
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Old 06-12-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Now I find it very difficult to get the Proportioning valve to do uit's job right.

I have completely closed (the smallest fluid amount clearance) and still the rear brakes(drums) lock befor the front
Are you talking about adjustable proportioning valve ???

I just finished my granada swap and tried the brakes without Prop Valve...
Rear brakes were locking when you hit the brakes hard. I installed adjustable proportioning valve inline to the rear brakes, adjust it and now they are great.

Alex
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Old 06-12-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Thanx guys,


No kinks. All conections are correct.

Front discs do lock up, but only after the rear drums do.

Yes. It is an adjustable valve.

Yood
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Old 06-13-2009   #5 (permalink)
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this is probabably a stupid question but just to make sure. the large bowl of the master cylinder that is closest to the firewall goes to the front brakes, and the front bowl has the residual pressure valve followed by the proportioning valve and then on to the rear brakes right?

It is backwards front to rear so easy to see how it can be mixed up. if that is right do you have a pressure gauge on the proportioning valve to see how much pressure is getting through the valve?

does it get better when you close the valve?

if it does not seem to change when the valve is closed then maybe the valve is defective. open the valve all the way make sure that the rear brakes lock worse than when it is closed, bleed the brakes again and make sure no dirt or debris is clogging the valve, and try adjusting it again.

also I assume you bench bled the master cylinder and have made sure the front brakes are bled well. I imagine you have already done all this stuff, but sometimes simple things get overlooked. if these things are all okay then you may have to try a lower residual pressure valve.

If I had to guess there is probably something simple wrong though. either a defective part in the kit or incompletely bled system, or a kink in a line somewhere
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Old 06-13-2009   #6 (permalink)
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A picture is worth a thousand words.

http://picasaweb.google.com/YMeerovich/MasterCylinderSetup?authkey=Gv1sRgCLzEr9-no7acFg#


I did install the RPV (10 psi) down stream from the Proportioning valve. looked like the only reasonable way.

I found no kinks in the tubing either.

Very frustrating.

Yood
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Old 06-13-2009   #7 (permalink)
66 restomod is offline Made Member

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Benicia   California
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Send Dennis an email with a link to the pictures.
I bought the non adjustable prop valve from him with my kit and have no problems. I did not want to have to adjust it manually.

Dennis is very responsive to questions from people. Email or you can call him at the shop.

He IS the expert...


(512)947-6718
info@discbrakeswap.com

http://www.discbrakeswap.com
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Last edited by 66 restomod; 06-13-2009 at 11:19 AM. Reason: address
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Old 06-13-2009   #8 (permalink)
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i took some pics of my set up from my CSRP Swap , its hard to see all the lines in your pics or mine for that matter , but it looks rights to me ,
sounds like your proportioning valve is not doing its job for some reason?
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Old 06-13-2009   #9 (permalink)
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it looks right to me as well, and I see no kinks. unless there is some debris in the lines somewhere I am out of ideas. It is sounding like a defective proportioning valve.
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