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Old 07-27-2009   #16 (permalink)
FordGtMan is offline Made Member

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Dont worry about the 8 inch unless your running slicks and going to the track every weekend. Your setup sounds great. A demon 625 is plenty of carb for a non stroked small block.
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Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.

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Old 08-13-2009   #17 (permalink)
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sorry for the delay guys i had to go to work last week or at least show my face! so when i got back at it i got started on the oil pump/ windage tray and pan, the milodon pans or very nice if you ever need to upgrade they are the ones to get , the studs on the mains torqued down no problem but the one on the top of the studs are a real in the ass because the holes on the tray are just big enough for the bolts --what the f!
i also did some powder coating or at least tried too! i went with a wet black on the manifold and what eastwood company calls a " one step chrome" on the water pump and timing cover, well needless to say it not close to chrome , more like a wet gray !--opps but not that bad i guess the good thing is that it will never change colors on me ,
so the next step is the fuel pump , and the harmonic balancer
i did put some never seize on the crank shaft and the balancer ,but man this thing wont more much more than haft way ,or there any tricks to getting it on , i'm sure you are not suppost to hit very hard , is there a special tool for this??
Attached Thumbnails
1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05300.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05302.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05306.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05309.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05310.jpg  

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Old 08-13-2009   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha male 67 View Post
sorry for the delay guys i had to go to work last week or at least show my face! so when i got back at it i got started on the oil pump/ windage tray and pan, the milodon pans or very nice if you ever need to upgrade they are the ones to get , the studs on the mains torqued down no problem but the one on the top of the studs are a real in the ass because the holes on the tray are just big enough for the bolts --what the f!
i also did some powder coating or at least tried too! i went with a wet black on the manifold and what eastwood company calls a " one step chrome" on the water pump and timing cover, well needless to say it not close to chrome , more like a wet gray !--opps but not that bad i guess the good thing is that it will never change colors on me ,
so the next step is the fuel pump , and the harmonic balancer
i did put some never seize on the crank shaft and the balancer ,but man this thing wont more much more than haft way ,or there any tricks to getting it on , i'm sure you are not suppost to hit very hard , is there a special tool for this??

What balancer do you have?
The FMS balancer I put on my 289 said in the instructions to boil it for 15 minutes and put on. Well.... 100% easier that way. It went on about 90% by hand, and using a 2x4 and rubber malet drove it home. Also in the instructions BTW. Let me tell you... that balancer was hot for at least 45 minutes after I put it on. No doubt it is on tight now!!
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Old 08-30-2009   #19 (permalink)
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ok i got back from offshore and got started again , man i have so much left to finish! , so anyway i powder coated the pulleys the same wet back has the manifold and cut the a/c bracket to just fit the compressor since i wont need the power steering side of it i think it came out pretty well , i picked up the a/c compressor from pull a part from a F-150 that had just came in 2 days ago , for 40 bucks it looks brand new , just hope it works
i also mounted the fuel pump and waiting for the 1 wire
alternator from power-master , now i just need to measure for the belt once it get here , use a string?
i went with Edelbrock performer heads #60379 too , read alot of good things , just hope i made the right choice
i did see on the block the i will need to put in a plug in the old dipstick hole , then i found another hole that is threaded
between the #3 and #4 piston (pic) anybody know what this was for?
Attached Thumbnails
1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05321.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05318.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05317.jpg  
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Old 08-30-2009   #20 (permalink)
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I think that's just a mounting hole for a grounding cable, etc. just depends on what was on the '91 it came out of. Stick a thin screwdrive in it to see how deep it is so you know how short a bolt you can use.
Jon
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Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
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Old 09-15-2009   #21 (permalink)
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hey Jon you nailed it --again thanks buddy
i got back on it last night and was able to mount the 100 amp
alternator with the new bracket , it mounted up nicely i just need to figure out my belt length . i was thinking around 70.5" from a diagram
i found-- i put it in the pics , well if nothing else it a place to start
then i got the heads on , i read on the edelbrock tech page to torque
to 80 ft/lbs , but here on the 5.0 page it states 65-72 lbs in 3 steps
so i went to 80 in 3 steps , also i had to put edelbrocks integral washers (#9680) in the heads because of the 7/16" head bolt , just dont use the washers that come with the head bolts , there not real easy to get in--very tight , i did find that a light coat of 30 weight helps them get in
hoping to get the intake on tomorrow and the move to the rollers
and measure out the push rods , i can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel
well at least on the motor!
Attached Thumbnails
1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05329.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05330.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05331.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05332.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-beltrouting_166_169.jpg  

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Old 09-15-2009   #22 (permalink)
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That is one mighty fine motor you have there. my blood is tingling with jealousy.Slap that purdy intake on there with the carb already! I want some dyno numbers!
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.

You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
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Old 09-16-2009   #23 (permalink)
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Hello, just acouple of quick points to help you. Did you put sealant on the outboard head bolts?? In those blocks the threads go through the coolant passages in the block, we are having to redo head gaskets now because we tried too late to fix this and upset torque sequence. Pull all the bolts in reverse torque pattern and apply LIBERAL amounts of sealant to the bolt threads and into outboard holes or Im afraid you too will get messed up. Did you go to a flat tappett cam? the 5.0 ho roller cam is very capable of your power goals and your 5.0 will run sooooo much cooler and be rev happy with a roller.
We tapped and installed a bolt with a oil drain washer into the old dipstick hole while pan was off.
our first three 5.0's ran great and we simply forgot to seal the headbolts this last time and it bit us. I hope you used new head bolts too as the oem ones are not reusable
good luck Joe
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Old 09-17-2009   #24 (permalink)
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thanks for the info silver , i didnt put sealant on the bolt just motor oil and ARP moly oil
, so i will go back and put some , also it a roller cam (comp cam # xe266hr) nice little valve lift of .544"/.555" (int/exh)
but i did run into this today , i was getting ready to put on the intake manifold on and the gasket didnt look right that ?
edelbrock recommended Intake Gasket: Fel-Pro #1250 and that what i got , but on the outboard ports the gasket covers some of the head
should i just trim it? or does it matter
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Old 10-29-2009   #25 (permalink)
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well i finally got the motor pulled , and it wasn't that bad , just needed some friends/nice weather and a case of beer to start!
pulled the motor and tranny together and its amazing how much fluid is in the tranny , it just never stops seems like it had 10 quarts in it!
so now its time to start the clean up bay and paint it , i haven't decided on what paint i should go with , i know Eastwood Company has some engine bay paint , so i'll start there or if anybody has some good ideas
oh and i find out that my old 302 was from 74 and so was the tranny
not the best year for ford and horsepower!
Attached Thumbnails
1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05536.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05532.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05533.jpg  
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91 302 roller .030 / Comp Cams #XE266HR cam
Edelbrock RPM Heads / RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
and ice cold A/C!
well soon , very soon!

"the only time you have to much fuel is when you are on fire!"
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha male 67 View Post
well i finally got the motor pulled , and it wasn't that bad , just needed some friends/nice weather and a case of beer to start!
pulled the motor and tranny together and its amazing how much fluid is in the tranny , it just never stops seems like it had 10 quarts in it!
so now its time to start the clean up bay and paint it , i haven't decided on what paint i should go with , i know Eastwood Company has some engine bay paint , so i'll start there or if anybody has some good ideas
oh and i find out that my old 302 was from 74 and so was the tranny
not the best year for ford and horsepower!
I see an X-pipe in there? What brand is that and how much was it? I want to run some Flowtech longtubes with and x-pipe and 40 series flowmasters.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #27 (permalink)
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I'm using the Eastwood chassis paint and engine bay paint and like it. Be sure to use the correct primer under the paint. I mistakenly used self etching primer under the chassis paint and it chipped easy.
One tip I can give is prime it all at once and paint it all at once. I tried to do it in sections and no matter how i masked off I always got overspray under it.
Jon
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'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Muffin View Post
I see an X-pipe in there? What brand is that and how much was it? I want to run some Flowtech longtubes with and x-pipe and 40 series flowmasters.

hey pig everything looks good on your build!
my system is dynomax ceramic long tube headers
and the magnaflow system #15816 i really liked the sound it was making even with that stock cam , cant wait to hear it with the new cam , i sure those flowmasters will sound great too

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91 302 roller .030 / Comp Cams #XE266HR cam
Edelbrock RPM Heads / RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
and ice cold A/C!
well soon , very soon!

"the only time you have to much fuel is when you are on fire!"
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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonk67 View Post
I'm using the Eastwood chassis paint and engine bay paint and like it. Be sure to use the correct primer under the paint. I mistakenly used self etching primer under the chassis paint and it chipped easy.
One tip I can give is prime it all at once and paint it all at once. I tried to do it in sections and no matter how i masked off I always got overspray under it.
Jon

thanks for the info Jon , i ordered the Eastwood paint Thursday
now when you say the "correct" primer is that just regular raddle can
stuff or is there something else you used?
i did see that Eastwood has a epoxy primer i might give that i shot
anyway i got the intake on and carb with the fuel line
i was getting to the rocker arms but it looks like the Edelbrock guideplates are pushing the arms off the top of the valves just a touch , i can get one lined up but not both at the same time!?
so i ordered a set of adjustable guideplates and give that a shot
now just to finish up under the hood and get that torque converter on, oh here are the latest pics
Attached Thumbnails
1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05564.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05565.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05566.jpg  
__________________
91 302 roller .030 / Comp Cams #XE266HR cam
Edelbrock RPM Heads / RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
and ice cold A/C!
well soon , very soon!

"the only time you have to much fuel is when you are on fire!"
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Old 4 Days Ago   #30 (permalink)
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well i just wanted to update the ones that have been helping with this build and say thanks again for all the help i couldn't have done this with
out yall! anyway i finished up the engine bay with the Eastwood
chassis bay paint very nice stuff and very easy to use but i did end up needing 2 more can , so it was 5 cans by the time i was done
and yes the motor is in!!-- man i was nervous when that baby was up in the air!
but it went in with no problems , now i'm wanting on the transmission to get back for the shop, the selector valve on it was pointing down and needed to be turned 180* and some of the small things need to be hooked up i cant wait to hear this thing , i'll post a youtube when i get it fired up
here is latest pics
Attached Thumbnails
1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05672.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05673.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05674.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05675.jpg  1991-shortblock-rebuilt-my-1967-mustang-coupe-dsc05637.jpg  

__________________
91 302 roller .030 / Comp Cams #XE266HR cam
Edelbrock RPM Heads / RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
and ice cold A/C!
well soon , very soon!

"the only time you have to much fuel is when you are on fire!"
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