[Print Dad]

Hello all,
Just checking a few things.
I looked up the Holley web site and can't quite figure out if:
1. - The front metering block is part of the idle cicuit.
I am having trouble on the pass side. When I turn in the idle mixture screw
no response on the pass side. Drivers side works fine

I was thinking I have an old metering block off a different carb.
Worth the shot.

I am also working on clogs in the carb near shooters as a possible source of trouble.

I promise that I will stop these stupid questions soon but i am trying to save some $$ and get the car running right.

[The Greek]

Apparently there is a passage clogged or there is a groove in the adjustment needle (Screw). A partially deterioriated metering block gasket blocking a passage is possible, too.

Holleys have a problem with blockage in the idle air restrictors that are located above the base of the boosters, toward the outer edge, on both the primary and secondary sides. I'd check those first then check the idle fuel outlet ports that are the small round passages next to the transfer slots. The idle circuit also involves the secondaries, even though on the 4160 there are no adjustment screws. The reason for this is so that there is a flow of fresh fuel into the secondary fuel bowl even if they aren't activated.

I guess that you've heard about the alcohol that is now being added to today's pump gas. Most Holleys are cast from zinc and alcohol causes the zinc to corrode and leave deposits in the passages. Possibly this is causing a blockage in the idle circuit.

It wouldn't hurt is you installed the other metering block to see what happens. All that it would cost is a little time and a couple of gaskets.

[Print Dad]

Hello The Greek,
Once again I thank you. I am getting so darn close to this
coming out on the road but it frustrating.

The carb is new but got clogged after the first run. This because of
old fuel. I had to rebuild it. Perhaps I messed up a gasket or the holes
above the base of the shooters is clogged. I will check that.

As far as the gas.....What ideas do you have?
If I do have to replace the carb any ideas?

Are the Summit carbs made of the same stuff?

When i first put the carb on the car, I ran it and several days later it wouldn't start, thus the need to ebuild. When I pulled the front bowl off these was a fine silvery slime in the bottom of the bowl after it had sat several months. I have read of this "slime" in other posts. Do you think this is due to the gas?

Thanks for the help. I am going to try to not post anymore until I make some improvements in the Mach 1.
Thanks...Print Dad

[cindys_sn95]

when you rebuilt the carb did you blow out all of the passages? like we talked about yesterday, something has a blockage.

[The Greek]

Daddy-O,
Don't feel as if you're being a burden on this forum. That's why it's here. Believe me, most folks post questions as they come to mind, without worrying about the frequency. You shouldn't worry about it, either.

The silvery slime sure sounds like it's corrosion of the zinc with the alcohol in the fuel. It's a shame that your new carb is suffering from the results of this. There's another recent post regarding this issue.

There's a new formulation of STA-BIL fuel stabilizer that is made to counter the corrosion from the Ethanol (alcohol). The new label has a yellow area promoting "Improved Formula". This is the kind that you want. I've noticed that there's still some of the old stuff on the shelves, so look for the yellow area on the label. This is the only additive that I know of to address this problem.

If you decide to keep your present carb, I'd disassemble it and give it a good soaking in carb cleaner. The kind that comes in a large can with a parts basket in it. Follow the directions and then blow out the passages. The down side to this is the fact that it may affect the finish, but what good is a shiney doorstop? Only use a Holley rebuild kit on Holley carbs. Some of the off-brand kits have poor quality parts.

If you decide on another carb, get one made of aluminum. Holley is now offering some of their popular models in aluminum. The new Summit carbs are made of aluminum, also.

I bought one of the Summit 600 CFM models. While the quality and tunability is good, I did need to remove some casting flash from the booster assemblies, but I didn't expect receiving the same build quality for $250, as I would find on a $400 carb. It's still a good buy and Holley parts fit on it.

I've started using the STA-BIL with every fill up. Can't hurt, might help.

[Print Dad]

Originally Posted by cindys_sn95

when you rebuilt the carb did you blow out all of the passages? like we talked about yesterday, something has a blockage.

Hello cindys_sn95,
When I rebuilt it, I did try to blow out all holes and passages and I even put a very fine wire through the ones I could
I was busy last night so didn't work on the car plus my wife is loosing
faith in my ability to fix this.

I was thinking about your comments on blockages and remembered I had
several other Hollies and thought perhaps if I change the metering block.
That is why I was asking about the idle circuit and metering block.

I appreciate your help believe me.......Print Dad

[Print Dad]

Originally Posted by The Greek

Daddy-O,
D


I bought one of the Summit 600 CFM models. While the quality and tunability is good, I did need to remove some casting flash from the booster assemblies, but I didn't expect receiving the same build quality for $250, as I would find on a $400 carb. It's still a good buy and Holley parts fit on it.

I've started using the STA-BIL with every fill up. Can't hurt, might help.

Hello The Greek,
Thanks. I appreciate your help and the help of others.
What I plan to do now is:
1. - Complete compression test. (will remove valve covers for better access)
2. - Pull carb and inspect the bleeder holes
3. - Pull and change front metering block

Due to the fact that I only do a couple of hours a night it may take a while but
it will get done.

I plan to use stabil. This is one of the reasons I am running car from gas can and not from my newly installed tank.

After step 3 I may just try to soak the carb in cleaner and see what happens after
assembly.

I would like to save the carb and the money because the car needs tires and other major cost items. I think my wife is starting to view the car as a never ending money pit that probably deserves a much better fate.

i will post after some progress one way or another. For now a repeated thanks to all the members who took the time to read the post and/or offer help.......Print Dud (hahaha)

[cindys_sn95]

if the wife has lost faith, we must figure this out!

[joef21]

Another potential problem is that side is running rich. This can cause the idle circuit to not respond when turning in.

[Print Dad]

Originally Posted by cindys_sn95

if the wife has lost faith, we must figure this out!

Hello Cindy, The Greek and all others
I did it. I am pretty sure I have come close to fixing this.
I did a compression test and all looked good.
Then I pulled carb again. I soaked it and then blew out every passage
and port. Let set overnite, reassembled and put on.

The car ran great....the mixture screws are working.
The motor is close to where i had hoped.

I found out my wife was no really losing faith in me but rather she was blue
due to pretty recent deaths (3) in her family. They were about 2 years ago.

Last night she was out in garage with me and heard the car....She is excited and looking forward to pulling it out of the garage after 22 years.

Thanks so much for the help, ideas and support. I will make this happen again as our Sunday cruiser.........Print Dad