I myself am running a stock 1965 289 bored 60 over. Running a stock 600cfm Autolite Carb, stock 4BBL dual-plane intake, stock heads, 2 1/2" collector headers with glass packs, mild cam, and electric fan. The engine is mounted to a rebuilt C4 (with a shift kit) with 3.55 rearend and I am running ~215hp at the wheels.
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65 Mustang 289 C4. Edelbrock 600cfm (no more Pony Carb Autolite), Shorty Headers with 2 1/2" collector & glasspacks, Shiftkit, 5-leaf stock height rear springs, 620lbs/1" drop front springs, Gas Adjust shocks, 14x7 American Racing S200 Daisy Rims, low-mid range cam, 1 1/8" front sway bar & 3/4" rear sway bar, & ~3.80's (I think) in the rear.
Stroking will add a bit of power. That would be a good start for someone looking for quite a bit more power out of those old SB's.
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65 Mustang 289 C4. Edelbrock 600cfm (no more Pony Carb Autolite), Shorty Headers with 2 1/2" collector & glasspacks, Shiftkit, 5-leaf stock height rear springs, 620lbs/1" drop front springs, Gas Adjust shocks, 14x7 American Racing S200 Daisy Rims, low-mid range cam, 1 1/8" front sway bar & 3/4" rear sway bar, & ~3.80's (I think) in the rear.
Alright guys, these are the results of my compression test.
cyl 1-110psi, cyl 2-125psi, cyl 3-115psi, cyl 4-118psi, cyl 5-115psi, cyl 6-130psi, cyl 7-120psi, cyl 8-111psi. Would changing my cam increase these numbers?
Alright guys, these are the results of my compression test.
cyl 1-110psi, cyl 2-125psi, cyl 3-115psi, cyl 4-118psi, cyl 5-115psi, cyl 6-130psi, cyl 7-120psi, cyl 8-111psi. Would changing my cam increase these numbers?
If you are running a real wild cam changing to a mild cam would increase your compression but if it is stock then you won't gain much.
Did you have your engine warm when you did the compression test?
Did you have the throttle locked wide open?
Did you keep the battery charged while you ran the check?
Does your gauge screw in or is it one of those push in testers?
Those numbers are low - too low as far as I am concerned.
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Paul's Street and Strip Performance AODs & C4s paulstephens @ q . com 6522 51 Ave. S. Seattle, WA. 98118 206.725.0881
they are low, but they are consistent across the range for the most part...as he said, did you check them warm, with ALL plugs out at the same time and throttle to the floor while cranking???
to raise your compression, disassemble the short block, talk to a builder and use a combination of pistons and milling the heads that will raise compression, then get a custom cam.
it's not just something you do, it's a total package that's done when building the motor.
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Jeremy
-86 ssp X chp 5.0 coupe
-66 coupe,Ford racing crate 5.0 roller engine, t5 trans
-1972 Maverick undergoing full resto
-1970 Maverick Grabber-why did I buy this one??
im now thinking about stroker kit. i heard the 347 is pushing the envelope for a old 302, but a 331 would be good. is this right? or should i go to my local junk yard and grab a newer block and start with that instead of the old block?
You should sit back and really evaluate what you want with the car.
220 at the wheels is respectable #'s for a first gen lightweight coupe...with a good trans and gear in the back, and traction you'll be in the mid 13's all day long.
my bro was doing 237 at the rear wheels in a 3300 pound 86 mustang, and with gear and et streets, NOT knowing how to drive he was hitting 8.7's in the 1/8 mile (or about a mid 13 quarter)
Have fun with what you have, and dial it in to the max. When it's not enough, then evaluate what your end goal is.
you'll spend your entire bank account second guessing all the mods you did and scrapping them for new...ask me how I know, lol
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Jeremy
-86 ssp X chp 5.0 coupe
-66 coupe,Ford racing crate 5.0 roller engine, t5 trans
-1972 Maverick undergoing full resto
-1970 Maverick Grabber-why did I buy this one??
