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Old 07-08-2009   #16 (permalink)
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I didn't use an oil slinger actually. I just made sure that the seal was mounted dead center on the crank. Have someone else tighten the bolts down a half turn at a time starting at the top working their way down while you hold it in place.

What did you find the other times you've taken it apart? Was the seal eaten away like mine was, or was it intact? Are you using an aftermarket crank/harmonic balancer/timing chain cover? What are the details on your engine?

The crank, harmonic balancer, and timing chain cover on my engine are all 80s-type parts, yes.

If you really want to make sure it's centered right, break out the micrometer :-) They also sell tools that let you ensure that it's centered, but I didn't have much luck locating one.
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Old 07-09-2009   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by durtydawgster View Post
I hear ya, bubba. I have had mine apart about 4 times and still no luck. I have given up on stopping that leak. I have replaced seals and gaskets and now think I need to replace everything up front; timing gear/chain assembly, timing chain cover, harmonic balancer, the seal again, and the oil pan. Good Luck.
I know what you mean. I'm looking anywhere I can to get answers. Its really annoying to have a sharp looking engine bay and then have it sprayed with oil as it hits the balancer.. This engine was just built and I'll be damned if I'm going to let it leak.
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Old 07-09-2009   #18 (permalink)
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I didn't use an oil slinger actually. I just made sure that the seal was mounted dead center on the crank. Have someone else tighten the bolts down a half turn at a time starting at the top working their way down while you hold it in place.

What did you find the other times you've taken it apart? Was the seal eaten away like mine was, or was it intact? Are you using an aftermarket crank/harmonic balancer/timing chain cover? What are the details on your engine?

The crank, harmonic balancer, and timing chain cover on my engine are all 80s-type parts, yes.

If you really want to make sure it's centered right, break out the micrometer :-) They also sell tools that let you ensure that it's centered, but I didn't have much luck locating one.
I'm glad to know I don't need a oil slinger. My engine is a 85 or so 302 bored and stroked to 347. The harmonic balancer is a 28 oz Professional Products part. The crank was balanced to 28 oz. The timing cover is an aftermarket aluminum piece that will fit all 302s and 289s. Forged pistons and all roller parts.

I bought the Ford tool that the 5.0 Service Manual said I needed this last time hoping it would center the timing cover properly. Before, I used the balancer to center the timing cover. All three times, including using a professional mechanic (one time) that races, the seal was eaten up at the top virtually identical to the picture of yours. I thought for sure the last time it was fixed, because i ran the car approximately 15 minutes and no leaks. The next day I actually drove it and when I came back to the house it was slinging oil all over the engine bay and ground. I'm getting fed up with this, I can tell you. I've built many Chevys and Pontiacs and never had this problem.

Everyone talks about dowels, but this engine has none. I've tried to locate a couple online and have been unsucessful. Did you use dowels? If so, were they already installed on the timing cover or on the block? This is the problem with building your first Ford. Finding all the secrets--for a sucessful build. I would just like to drive my car. Luckily, I don't have to rely on it to go to work.
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Old 07-10-2009   #19 (permalink)
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I have a 302 with all stock parts. I think I need to just replace all of it with new parts. I didn't notice any problem with the seal, but I drive it daily so I have gotten used to it, but you guys are getting me motivated to give it another try.
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Old 07-10-2009   #20 (permalink)
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Well cross your fingers for me then I haven't had the chance to do any major driving with it yet; I've got a tranny issue I'm trying to work out at the same time. The guy I talked to at the machine shop was saying the 80s 302s had two or so dowels on the back of the cover, so that when bolted on, it would be perfectly aligned. I might do some investigation to see if yours qualifies. That would be super sweet. No, I did not have the luxury of dowels

What I wonder is how did the assembly line ensure that it was on there right the first time. They did quite a few of them, and did a damn fine job...old farts that's your cue
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Old 07-10-2009   #21 (permalink)
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I will check for the dowels. The 302 that I have came out of a 79 Ford LTD, but I am pretty sure that whoever put the 302 in just bolted all of the 289 stuff to the 302 so the timing chain cover, harmonic balancer, and water pump are all from the 289. I am going to buy some new stuff and do it again.
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Old 07-13-2009   #22 (permalink)
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I will check for the dowels. The 302 that I have came out of a 79 Ford LTD, but I am pretty sure that whoever put the 302 in just bolted all of the 289 stuff to the 302 so the timing chain cover, harmonic balancer, and water pump are all from the 289. I am going to buy some new stuff and do it again.
Let us know what yo find. I'll be curious to see what you find.
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Old 07-22-2009   #23 (permalink)
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OK, here is what happened. I had been working on my cooling system and it was running great; then the temperature started get hotter and hotter, and so I took it home removed the radiator cap and small, brown floaty's were bubbling up from the water in the radiator. A closer look and the brown was oil. Many bubbles were coming out so I thought I had a blown head gasket. I began taking the whole thing apart and removed my heads. Then I decided to do the front seal again. When I took it apart; you are correct; the seal was worn very much on the top. It looks like it wasn't centered properly. I have removed the oil pan so now the engine looks like a short block, but still in the car. I am thinking about pulling the engine since it is so close, but I am not sure. Sorry about the long post.
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Old 07-23-2009   #24 (permalink)
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Wow, that is a bruiser. One advantage of pulling the engine is that you would be able to put the timing chain cover on while the engine's mounted on a stand. I imagine that would be worlds easier and more precise. There's gotta be some stupid trick that allows you to mount these things right the first time though. I can't imagine the factory workers eyeballing these things when they were producing these engines. You could probably put a micrometer to work for you in this situation... Good luck, and I look forward to hearing how it turns out and what you find
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Old 07-23-2009   #25 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by hypostang View Post
Some seals go in from the inside and some from the outside,
It depends on the your particular cover
One thing I have learned in 30 years of working on fords is never ever assume they are all the same. I have a 289 and a 302 in two different cars and one of each type of seal .
Exactly, I have a factory 289 66 model and the seal went on from the front (outside) of the timing cover.
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Old 07-23-2009   #26 (permalink)
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Wow, that is a bruiser. One advantage of pulling the engine is that you would be able to put the timing chain cover on while the engine's mounted on a stand. I imagine that would be worlds easier and more precise. There's gotta be some stupid trick that allows you to mount these things right the first time though. I can't imagine the factory workers eyeballing these things when they were producing these engines. You could probably put a micrometer to work for you in this situation... Good luck, and I look forward to hearing how it turns out and what you find
I've got mine torn apart again (fourth time) and I've
decided to try and use the old 1966 289 timing cover. I was told that the other one I bought at Jegs.com might be a chinese knock-off and be off a bit as far as dimensions. The timing cover says USA, but who knows. I'll keep trying until I finally get it on right.
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Old 07-24-2009   #27 (permalink)
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The newer timing covers have a cast in ramp on the inside that keeps the oil away from the seal and a slinger is not used. If using a double roller timing chain, the slinger usually won't fit and the newer cover is needed with the ramp. All of the aftermarket covers that I have seen have this ramp. So that you know, the portion of the seal that has the numbers on it goes to the outside, always.

The old design covers had the seal that was installed from the inside. The later covers and most aftermarket, from the outside. If you don't have the special tool that slips over the crankshaft snout, the harmonic balancer is installed to center the seal. There are no dowels used for centering.

Many times an oil leak will be blamed on the seal when actually the source of the leak is failure to apply sealant to the crankshaft key and keyway on the harmonic balancer.
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Old 07-24-2009   #28 (permalink)
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There's gotta be some stupid trick that allows you to mount these things right the first time though. I can't imagine the factory workers eyeballing these things when they were producing these engines. You could probably put a micrometer to work for you in this situation... Good luck, and I look forward to hearing how it turns out and what you find
Put anti seize compound on the crank shaft where the balancer goes. Put the balancer inside the seal that is mounted in the timing cover. Put the balancer with the centered timing cover on the crank and push/hammer it on far enough to mate the cover to the block while still centered in the seal. Torque the cover down....perfectly centered. Removal of the balancer is easy now if needed with the anti seize or put the bolt in and tighten it down if you are ready.
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Old 07-24-2009   #29 (permalink)
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The timing cover I'm removing had the ramp ground off when I received it from Jegs. I have a Pete Jackson gear drive and it is rubbing on the cover. It is supposed to make contact at two points on the timing cover, but it is grinding the cover at more than those two points. The literature with the gear drive did say it may require slight machining of the timing cover, but the mechanic who I consulted with said this wouldn't cause the seal to be destroyed. the 1966 timing cover on the 289 I took out has the ramp. I don't know if this was the original timing cover or replaced. Guessing from what the greek said, it must have been replaced. I know it wasn't leaking on the original engine. To use it though, I will have to grind off the ramp. Its a little different than the one jegs sent me. The Jegs cover has larger areas where the bolts go through (reinforcements). The 289 had the oil slinger which I would like to use but can't with the gear drive. I love the sound and accuracy of the gear drive, but now I'm wondering if it might be causing me some clearance problems. I had one on my last car and no problems. I tried the harmonic balancer to center it as described and it ate the top of the seal, thats why I bought the centering tool from Ford. I know the balancer should do the same, but for some reason its not working. Sorry about the long post, but I'm tired of ripping this car apart.
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Old 07-25-2009   #30 (permalink)
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I feel your pain bubbamace. I have removed my engine, and it is on a stand now for cleaning, re-assembly of new gaskets. I don't have an oil slinger so I am going to concentrate on getting the balancer centered, and hope this is sufficient. I am using an original timing chain cover with the seal installed from the inside. I should know how it looks by Sunday or Monday night.
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