[Jeffs6T8]

Long story short I have a 68 coupe with a 289 that has set for almost 10 years. Got it started this month but had a terrible miss/dead cylinder. Replaced cap, rotor, wires, plugs made no difference. Did compression check and all were 130 - 140. Ended up pulling a valve cover and apparently something was stuck when it started up because it had bent a push rod. I have replaced all the lifters and pushrods and everything looks good now. Now I'm ready to reassemble. Its been over 20 years since I did any intake work so here is my question. What is the best way to seal this gasket? I purchased a fel pro gasket and it talks about using a quick drying adhesive to install the end gaskets and also to apply the quick drying adhesive to the heads. What do they consider quick drying adhesive?

[cindys_sn95]

3M 8001, yellow death, gorilla snot, ect, ect. be careful with cam/lifter break-in. be sure to add a cam break-in additive. very important! p.s. it was probably a valve that was stuck, turn it over by hand, slowly, a few times before you are ready to crank.

[429ragtop]

copper rtv will work well

[The Greek]

I don't use the gaskets for the front and rear of the lifter valley or combine their use with the Silicone RTV. Just lay a bead of the RTV that's approximately 1/4" to 3/8" across the valley rails. It does an excellent job of filling up the gaps without the gaskets. Just give it some time to set up.

The quick drying adhesive that they are referring to can be either weatherstrip adhesive or "Avation Permatex" which comes in a small bottle with a brush under the cap. Use that to attach the intake gaskets to the faces of the heads. Just apply enough keep them from shifting out of position when you go to lower the intake into place.

As previously said, don't forget to apply some Moly break-in lube to the faces of the lifters and the cam lobes and follow the lifter's break-in procedure. At first start up. Again, it was good advice to bar the engine over by hand before engaging the starter.