2006 Mustang Leather Bucket Seats in an early 1965 Mustang? Can it be done?
Hello,
I've stumbled across a set of red leather bucket seats out of a 2006 convertible mustang but I'm not sure if they'll fit into my 1965 mustang coupe. I know it is relatively easy to do with other generations of mustangs, but I have not seen anyone who has done it with a new generation mustang. Has anyone done this swap before? If it's expensive to do I don't think I'll follow through. I'd rather save my money for a set of wheels
You would have to remove the seat platforms and then drill new mounting holes for the sliders. I have not doen it in a Mustang but I am mounting late model seats in another project.
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Mike
I've had 60 cars....most of them Mustangs :-)
Thanks for the reply
I not entirely sure what these seats come with as I haven't seem them in person (going tonight). If they have the seat mounting bracket included, then I'm guessing it would be easier to do your method? I should then also be able to use the power options...but not sure how...yet
You have to use the tracks from your old seats to bolt onto your floor. There are alot of people putting newer seats in old Mustangs. I have a set that I plan to put in soon.
You have to use the tracks from your old seats to bolt onto your floor. There are alot of people putting newer seats in old Mustangs. I have a set that I plan to put in soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Calponycarsmike
You would have to remove the seat platforms and then drill new mounting holes for the sliders. I have not doen it in a Mustang but I am mounting late model seats in another project.
I looked at the seats last night. The red matches almost perfectly. I think if they were a bit more sun worn they'd match perfect. The driver is fully electric except for the tilt/recline. The passenger seat is slightly thinner from seat post to bottom cushin than the driver's side probably due to the electronics on the driver's side. That makes me worry about the driver side fitting in the car with the head rest on?
Also the rails on the newer seats are about 1" wider apart. If I use the tracks from the old seats will the power front/back motion work still? I'm not familiar with the mechanics of a power seat.
From what I can see from other late model seat installs, I'm assuming they removed all the electronics from under the driver seat so that all there is left is the seatframe? I assume this only b/c no one has posted pictures with what they started with? Is this how you'd proceed? I'd lose power front/back, and probably all the other power options too I'm guessing?
You have to use the tracks from your old seats to bolt onto your floor. There are alot of people putting newer seats in old Mustangs. I have a set that I plan to put in soon.
Shrinkdude,
So you'd removed the front and back 'mounting brackets' for the late model mounting, then attach the early model tracks to the late model rails, then drill new holes in the pan to mount the seat?
Early model seats mount pretty flush / level with the pan, where as late model (05+) have more of a 90 degree attachment bracket (which is attached to a rail/track). The track width on the late model is about 1" wider than the early model track.
Thanks for the input, I'm having a hard time finding any details on an install of these seats. They look like they're close to not fitting height wise.
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Early 1965 Mustang Coupe GT clone, Toploader, Bored 0.03" over, Front manual disc, dual 2.5" exhaust, mild cam, Crane roller rockers, RPM performer intake, 625 Road Demon carb, Mallory distributer, MSD 6A ignition, Aluminum Radiator, Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump, some engine bling!!
I am eventually going to put 69-73 seats with the locking backs in my car, hopefully even a set of the high backs. You could go with those. Those will fit with no adjustments, and if you get the high backs they are similar to the new ones.
Unfortunately those seats are off of a '95 mustang and they look offly low in height compared to the one I'm looking at.
I need to go see them again now that I'm better equipt with knowledge. I think they are going to be too high unless I modify the floor pans which doesn't reallly rank high on my mod list
I need one of those how to's for an 05+.
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Early 1965 Mustang Coupe GT clone, Toploader, Bored 0.03" over, Front manual disc, dual 2.5" exhaust, mild cam, Crane roller rockers, RPM performer intake, 625 Road Demon carb, Mallory distributer, MSD 6A ignition, Aluminum Radiator, Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump, some engine bling!!
I am eventually going to put 69-73 seats with the locking backs in my car, hopefully even a set of the high backs. You could go with those. Those will fit with no adjustments, and if you get the high backs they are similar to the new ones.
Know anyone with pictures of these installed. The reason I'm looking at these seats are because I have a bit of a wonky back, so the extra support would be great, especially lumbar
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Early 1965 Mustang Coupe GT clone, Toploader, Bored 0.03" over, Front manual disc, dual 2.5" exhaust, mild cam, Crane roller rockers, RPM performer intake, 625 Road Demon carb, Mallory distributer, MSD 6A ignition, Aluminum Radiator, Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump, some engine bling!!
I put 2001 seats in my 67 coupe. The 05-2010 seats are higher than the earlier ones. With the 2001, I took the track and all electronics out, took the tracks of my 67 seats. Two bolts lined up, the other two I drilled new holes into the bottom of the 2001 seats and bolted them in. The seats are fairly flush with the carpet now. This may/maynot help you but thought I'd post. I don't think you will be able to use the track/electronics on the 05+ seat because it will be to high.
I put 2001 seats in my 67 coupe. The 05-2010 seats are higher than the earlier ones. With the 2001, I took the track and all electronics out, took the tracks of my 67 seats. Two bolts lined up, the other two I drilled new holes into the bottom of the 2001 seats and bolted them in. The seats are fairly flush with the carpet now. This may/maynot help you but thought I'd post. I don't think you will be able to use the track/electronics on the 05+ seat because it will be to high.
Thanks for the reply. The removing of the electronics is what most people have left out of their "how tos" or they started with two manual seats. Was it hard removing the electronics?
The guy who has the seats said the electronics are riveted into place. Did you have to trim/removed the plastic where all the controls are on the side of the seat? I heard it hangs lower than the electronics under the seat do.
WRT mounting the tracks, I think I'd have to drill 4 new holes in mine b/c the track is wider on the newer seats.
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Early 1965 Mustang Coupe GT clone, Toploader, Bored 0.03" over, Front manual disc, dual 2.5" exhaust, mild cam, Crane roller rockers, RPM performer intake, 625 Road Demon carb, Mallory distributer, MSD 6A ignition, Aluminum Radiator, Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump, some engine bling!!
If you go to see the seats again take pics and post them of the seat sitting flat on the ground, upside down, front view, etc. of the mounting area and measure everything, track width, ht., etc. Take pics of the pass. seat tracks too as that is what the manual drivers should look like. I have an '09 w/pwr but won't be home til this weekend to look at it.
If the electronics are riveted to a bracket that should be easy to drill off, if you're getting them for a good price you could get a manual slider from a junkyard and use it possibly.
I used '87-'93 foxbody's in my '67 and simply chiseled the rivets off that held the 'feet' on then made an adapter plate to line up with my floor, they work perfect and sit at the same ht. from the floor as the stock seats. I now have tilt/recline, shoulder support, headrest and electric lumbar.
Jon
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'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Hey Jonk67, thanks for the info. I went and had a look last night. The electronics can be removed easily by drilling out or grinding the rivets. The frame (that it's riveted to) is not flat all the way across, so I'm not sure how that's going to affect the install. The frame is recessed a bit under the seat, particularly where the plastic side piece is that houses the electronic controls. I've read most ppl have raised the seat from the track by using spacers or washers, but I'm guessing I'd have to raise mine a bit more than other people. Also the frame is 15" wide and the old seats are 14" so that only leaves me a 1/2" on either side of the frame. Cutting it close...The front height of the seat itself is very close to the original (about 6") so if I raise the seat about 1" or so it should still give me leg room and room for the back/forth lever to work. I worry about if I raise the seat that high that I'd lose stability in the seat if I were to "hit the ditch". I think I can make this happen, but that's my only worry. I can get these seats for $550 Canadian and they have only 30,000km of wear which is virtually new. I’m heading back there again tonight and I brought my camera this time.
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Early 1965 Mustang Coupe GT clone, Toploader, Bored 0.03" over, Front manual disc, dual 2.5" exhaust, mild cam, Crane roller rockers, RPM performer intake, 625 Road Demon carb, Mallory distributer, MSD 6A ignition, Aluminum Radiator, Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump, some engine bling!!