[Mn66emberglo]

Got all the parts to replace my oil pan and pump screen today. ON a previous post I had mentioned that I wanted to stop the dripping at the oil plug so bought a new pan/plug assembly with the rubber type gasket.

Went to drop the pan and it was a little more involved. I had to remove everything mentioned in a previous post. I removed the stabilizer bar, the steering linkage and the starter motor to get the thing off.

Once I got the pan off I found some pieces of things in there. One was what looks like a brown plastic ring gear about 4" in diameter and about a 1/4 inch wide. the second were a couple bent piece of thin metal about 1/2" square. Does anyone have an idea where these could come from? The plastic ring was broken into pieces the largest about an inch long. the gear part has teeth that are semi circles.

I was looking through my shop manual to find what could have made its way down to the pan. Most stuff I thought would be crushed by the time is makes it down to the pan.

[66Sprint200]

Is there any chance it could be from the distributor? I mean, I know that it comes out above the oil pan at the camshaft and I know it is gear driven off of the cam shaft.

[rocky289]

Could you post some pic's

[02GTmuscle]

Hmmm.

[Mn66emberglo]

Here is a photo of the broken plastic piece kind of assembled into a ring with the parts I found. Would the outer ring hold bearings?

[hypostang]

Originally Posted by Mn66emberglo

Here is a photo of the broken plastic piece kind of assembled into a ring with the parts I found. Would the outer ring hold bearings?

That is the outer part of a Ford timing chain
They put an outer ring of nylon material to help the chain run quieter
after years and miles they disintegrate

[Jay H 237]

^ yup, that's exactly what it is. When the timing gear wears or breaks the parts drop right down into the pan. That's why some people recommend dropping the pan when doing a timing chain/gear replacement but most people don't.

Doesn't hurt to put a new oil pump on too, I just did that in May when I had to replace my leaking oil pan gasket and fix a dent in the pan.

Here's the remains that were in my pan, http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z.../pandebris.jpg

even though my screen was clear I replaced it along with the pump, original screen http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z...237/pickup.jpg

The new stock (not high volume) oil pump seems to have helped raise my oil pressure some. The factory gauge in my 68 with stock 289 was always in the dead center, now it stays 5/8 up all the time so there seems to have been some improvement. I've never hooked a separate mechanical gauge up though. My engine has 87k on it and from speaking to 3 of the 4 previous owners has never been rebuilt.

[Mn66emberglo]

Jay the photo you posted looks just like the pieces I found plus a few chunks of metal. I purchased a new pump screen already. Mine was a little blocked by some of the pieces wedged on it. I also called and ordered a new oil pump that I am going to pick up in about an hour.

Once I got all the way to get the pan removed last night I figured I might as well get a new pump. I hope it shows the improvement in oil pressure. The one I pulled out this morning looks original. I dont think the pan had ever been pulled. The timing chain does have a nice metal sprocket on the bottom end. It was probably changed at one time.

I got the starter motor all cleaned (40 yrs of crud on that) and I am finishing painting the support bracket black again. I am not wild about how the inner tie rod looks as it hooks to the drag link (had to remove that to get to the oil pan). Debating whether to replace it now or finish the oil pump/pan/screen job first to make sure that is working well. One job seems to lead to many once you start tearing apart things!

[nigel]

If you already have it down go ahead and change it out.

[Mn66emberglo]

Success! I got all the pieces back together last night and took the car for a drive. Oil pressure reads nice toward the high side when cold. Comes down to the mid to lower side but within safety range when warmed up and at idle stays there. Engine also sounds a lot nicer for some reason and seems to start much easier. Dont know if that was a direct result of the changes but was a nice plus also.

When I was priming the new pump and testing it by turning the rod the new pump turned a whole lot easier than the old one. I should be getting a lot better flow!.

[dferre13]

Yep on thing leads to another with these classic cars, Every time I look at the completely striped down car I find something new that needs replacing. Last night I was looking at the trunk interior and it did not seem right so I crawled under the car and sure enough the right rear frame rail had been scrunched. It is partially broken and shifted right behind the wheel hump. On top of that as a repair someone had brazed it with brass, so it would not further crack I suppose. Everytime I start removing old paint, body filler, and seam sealer I find a braze mark here and there.

[andrewmp6]

With a older car who knows when anything was done last so that's why you always find a surprise like that.Next time you change your oil cut open the oil filter see if there is any metal in it.

[mrstangABQ]

I took my oil pan off last weekend and found pieces of hard plastic. An engine shop and a mustang shop both told me it was pieces of old valve seals. I gotta check those this weekend.

I also found a broken oil pump drive shaft. I am able to turn the motor manually so I don't think its seized but I need to check the cylinder walls and a couple of other things to make sure there isn't any major damage.

What else should I be looking for to make sure the engine isn't shot?

[Mn66emberglo]

If you are uncertain a compression check of each cylinder will tell you if you have some excessive wear or valves not seating.