Help installing new coil springs in a 1968 mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009 Thread Starter
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Help installing new coil springs in a 1968 mustang

Im rebuilding the front end of my car and its time to put the coil springs in. But they are a big PITA. I have been compressing the spring but i still cant get it in there. It also seems that the new coil spring saddle doesnt want to move at all either and im thinking that that is part of my problem. Any help or tips would be greatly appricatied.

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009
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Are they stock height springs? are you using and internal compressor with a stack of washers or a piece of pipe added to the top of the center threaded rod? The spring compressors are usually too long for the bottom area where the saddle is and the bolt hits before you can get it to let go (hence adding a spacers to the top). Of course you've got to line up the top of the spring inside the shock tower first.

Is your suspension at full droop? frame supported with jack stands and spindles/tires just hanging there?

I installed 1" drop 560 springs and they were 4" shorter than the stock springs I took out (stock 16", 560's 12" off the car.) I can remove/install my new springs w/o use of a compressor even, they slip out at full droop, this won't happen normally as the rest of the suspension connected - sway bar, strut rods, and shocks will prevent it.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-02-2009 Thread Starter
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yea they r stock springs. and i just finished putting everything on(upper ball joint, lower control arm w/ ball joint, saddle, endlinks, and i have my spindles on it) i believe that it is at full droop. but the saddles dont move at all and i cant get the coil compressed enough it seems. Can i remove the shock tower part that is inside the wheel well? That would help a ton.

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009
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I am in the middle of a full restoration of our 68 and yes you should be able to take the outside covers off the shock towers to expose the springs. Mine has 6 bolts per tower.

1968 Coupe "C" 289 4v Automatic C4 (Under Destruction)

1991 Convertible LX 5.0 Automatic Factory Red

Check out my home page.

I now have Photo's of both cars
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009
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You can tap the saddles with a hammer if you need to move them, they should be tight like that.


The piece of pipe idea is great. I didn't have enough washers hanging around the day I installed my roller perches back in May so I wound up cutting about 3.5" off the threaded rod in my spring compressor with my die grinder so it would work.

1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project

Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009 Thread Starter
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ok thanks im going to try to get that cover off. Btw is it just held on there w/ bolts or is there also something else there that is bonding it to the inside of the wheel well.

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009
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Just bolts.........
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009 Thread Starter
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ok i got the cover off it was just stuck but a rubber mallet took care of that

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-03-2009
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Glad yours was just stuck, on mine someone had at sometime did a poor job of changing the fender aprons and had partialy welded the coil covers on.

1968 Coupe "C" 289 4v Automatic C4 (Under Destruction)

1991 Convertible LX 5.0 Automatic Factory Red

Check out my home page.

I now have Photo's of both cars
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-04-2009 Thread Starter
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yea i was afraid that that was the case with mine.

i got the drivers side rebuilt and have the passenger side torn apart so tomorrow im going to finish rebuilding the passenger side and then im gonna put my brakes on.

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
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