A thousand dollars for a rebuild? Wow I dont even know what to say about that. I just rebuilt my 302 that had only 35,000 original miles on it. (It sat for 19 years and still turned over, I just didnt trust it). Let me give you a quick at a glance rundown of the cost and the process. Before you decide to go that route.
Machine shop to clean, boil, magnaflux the block, check for piston size, press the pistons onto the rods, turn and polish the crank, do a valve job and give everything back to you in bags. $1140.00 That is of course after you tear down the engine and take them the block, heads, crank, and main bearings, and pistons. That includes the rebuild master kit but is without the timing set, cam, and lifters. (As I decided to install a Comp cam, lifter, and timing set at an addition cost of $220.00).
Then you will want to replace the pushrods as you really shouldnt use your old ones after they have been used for 20 years and you now have a new valve job with new lifters, besides its $25.00 worth its wieght in piece of mind.
Then you will need some engine assembly lube, cam installation lube, two torque wrenches, one for the high torqe bolts like head bolds at 60-70 ft lbs and one for the lower torqes like the rod bearings 19-24 ft lbs
Then you will want to make sure all of your old gasket surfaces are cleaned, like the intake manifold ect. With mine I didnt have that problem as I installed all new parts.
Next you will have to ensure that the main caps and rods/rod bearings are all installed in the same positions they were in when you took them out, or the rods will not fit on the crank, ect.
All the bearings will have to be installed properly by somebody that knows what position to put them in. This is very important, you would not want to spin a bearing on initial startup and have to start all over again from scratch. Not to mention a waste of all the money you spent on machine work. ie. the pistons have to go in with the notch on the top facing forward, and the bearings have to go in with the slots over the oiling holes. I would deffinatly not recomend you putting the engine together without somebody that knows what they are doing. Like I said, one mistake can cost you the whole thing. And it could cost you even more if your engine block is a numbers matching original engine from your classic car and it ends up not being able to be rebuilt.
So you can now see that if you rebuild it and you want to do anything else to it like balance it (an extra $160.00 to $200.00) or add an edelbrock intake (an extra $150.00 to $225.00) or a new carb ( an extra $150.00 to $450.00) or add a bigger cam or anything else. Now you are starting to get the picture of how it all adds up. And you are starting to see why I shake my head when people say they can rebuild an engine for $1000.00. Sure it can be done, but the real question is, do you want it done right? You can see some before, durring and after pictures along with a discription of my rebuild on page 4 of my thread at http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...akeover-4.html