Hey guys, I need some help diagnosing the smoking coming from the filler cap on my 65 289. At first I thought it was just excess oil, dirt, or grease burning off. Just changed the oil and filter. There's still white smoke coming from the filler cap, though. I know I have the right grade oil, too. It's not a lot of smoke, but just enough to notice.
Any suggestions?? Any feedback at all is always welcome.
Hi. It sounds like blow-by. This is a condition that occurs when the piston rings or valve guides wear to the point that combustion gases (ie smoke etc) get up into the valve train area. Then it goes out the breather and you see smoke. You also usually get an excess amount of oil wetting on the top of the rocker cover. Is your motor high-mileage?
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1969 Boss 302 (Vintage Race Car) Calypso Coral
2002 Saleen SC281 True Blue
1967 Coupe, 5-speed, Grabber Orange
Hey guys, I need some help diagnosing the smoking coming from the filler cap on my 65 289. At first I thought it was just excess oil, dirt, or grease burning off. Just changed the oil and filter. There's still white smoke coming from the filler cap, though. I know I have the right grade oil, too. It's not a lot of smoke, but just enough to notice.
Any suggestions?? Any feedback at all is always welcome.
I used to see that a lot on my 68 Chevell. Its blow by gases. Why they have crank case breathers. Unless their is lots of it. If you do a compression check and all is within specs, I wouldn't worry.
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2008 manual GT with deluxe trim, FRPP CAI, FRPP GTB Mufflers & 91 All Out Tillman Tune. 3.73 gears, Coast Ultralight Drive-shaft. 18" OEM Polished Bullitts, Webelectric Sequentials, XM built into the Shaker 500. Alarm and Escort 8500.
Hello M3Rider013,
As stated sounds like blow by. This often is due to worn valve guies and/or valve seals. First thing i would od is check the PVC valve.
Pull it from the valve cover and see if it rattles when shaken.
If it does it is probably OK. If no rattle replace.
I agree with the blow by consensus. Replace your pcv valve no matter whether it rattles or not. Some rattle and work some don't. for a few bux, it can save other parts too.
There is pressure building up and fortunately its going out the oil breather. if it didn't, it could go out your valve cover gaskets or worse (say oil pan gasket). Changing the oil was a good thing to do. If you have blockage, you have lots of moisture mixed with the oil vapors and no where to go. Also make sure your filter on the breather is replaced. The system has to suck the vapor out of the crank case using engine vacuum. Air has to go in to replace what comes out, creating a closed loop.
Also disagree with the idea that wear causes blow by gases. It can be increased by worn rings etc, but not only caused by them. New cars have blow by, old cars have blow by. Before pcv systems were mandated, first in california then everywhere else, over 25% of all engine emissions were from blow by from the road draft tube.
When you see white smoke, usually it isn't smoke, but steam from a source of moisture. Have you experienced a low coolant level that continually needs to be topped off? Does the oil have a milky color? If so, it may be a head gasket problem, or a crack in the cylinder head that's allowing coolant to enter the crankcase.
hey guys i have a big problem. i build a 302 with 30 over pistons 1 stage higher cam(from factory) with gt40-p heads,650cfm carb.the engine is 1992. im getting valve noise. like the valves are not getting oil,but they are.i took the valve cover off and looked. the valve are not loose.i use the push rod and valves off an e7te heads.can that be the reason why? also the oil is milky. change it 3 times still the same color! please help im at the end of my rope
Milky oil is coolant in the oil. Don't run your engine this way. The lifter noise may be caused by damage to the hydraulic lifters from the contaminated oil. The engine's bearings aren't getting any benefits either.
Did you adjust the valves correctly? Did you use any reference material when doing the engine build? I'm referring to using the correct torque specs on the heads and correct valve adjustment procedure. Usually milky oil is caused by head gasket problems or cracked heads or blocks. Don't continue running the engine with the condition you have.
i did the engine build by the book. i get no bottom end, niose is only the top, valve noise any idea? the valve and push rods are from the et7 heads. i got them on the gtp-40 heads. could that be the reason why?