I recently bought a 1963 260ci that hasn't been started in 10 years. I need the best technique y'all know for getting it started with the least chance of damage. It's not siezed, but I'm not going to just fire it up.
A guy I work with has just gotten a '68 289 running after the car had set for about the same time as yours. The engine was in the car, though.
Fuel pump replaced, carb rebuilt, new points, condenser, wires and plugs. He also found a bad coil. It is smoking a little and needs to run some more, but that is what it took to get it running. Time will tell what else he may have to do. I told him to run some Marvel Mystery Oil in it for about an hour and then change the oil.
While you have the plugs out, spin it over with the starter for a while to get the oil pressure up and get things lubed internally.
Frank
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2008 GT Premium, Vapor Metallic, 5-speed stick w/MGW, GT500 front end, spoiler and replica wheels. Sequentials, GTA's, FRPP M6066M463V8 Whipple - can't wipe the smile off my face.
My 1966 289 sat for more than 10 years, too, before I got it on the road this past spring. I read the posts, did all that. But before I did any turning of the engine at all, I removed the plugs and put a couple of squirts of Marvel into each cylinder and let it sit for two days. I was scared to death of snapping a piston ring or scoring a cylinder. We've run it all summer without problems so far.
My 1966 289 sat for more than 10 years, too, before I got it on the road this past spring. I read the posts, did all that. But before I did any turning of the engine at all, I removed the plugs and put a couple of squirts of Marvel into each cylinder and let it sit for two days.......
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
Well, I got the old 260 running after changing fluids, putting in a new thermostat, changing plugs and squirting a little Marvel Mystery Oil in each plug hole as I changed the plugs. It runs a little rough, but is smoothing out. I was going to adjust the timing, but the distributor is FROZEN SOLID. So I'm soaking the area around the point the distributor goes into the block with PB Blaster. Four days later it finally budged, but not much...squirt again and go to the house. Finally, to the point, does anyone know of a forum for other ford products. This engine is in a '63 Comet and I don't want to take up too much Mustang time. I cannot find any timing marks on the harmonic balancer or any pulley on this 260 and I am stumped. My 69 has gone from 98% done to 99%. I got my clock back from Clockworks and it looks like a new one. When it goes in and I decide on a radio, it's done. Right now I drive and sing...rest assured, only when I'm alone.
Good luck with your comet but come on everyone knows that the mustang is never done. I had a 260 in my 66 mustang before my 302 swap. I also thought it was weird how the balancer was blank. We ended up just timing it blind and getting it running as best we could by ear. Again good luck with both projects
I don't think you need to find another forum. Many of us here have other Ford cars and sometimes we need some advice on them too. The Comet is still part of the Ford family. What's the real difference in technical advice if you said the 260 was in a 64 1/2 Coupe?
BTW, I think timing by ear is the best way.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
As you probably already know, the engine rotates in a clockwise direction if facing the engine from the front. Find top dead center (TDC) on the #1 cylinder when it is on the compression stroke. Both of the valves will be closed when it is at that point of rotation. A flashlight will illuminate the piston through the spark plug hole so that you can see when the piston is at its highest point. When you are there, mark the balancer in reference to the timing pointer.
After the mark is made, you can install a timing tape around the balancer referenced off of the TDC mark. The tape is marked off in degrees. Measure the diameter of the balancer so that you get the right tape and make sure the the surface is clean before you apply it. The tape is available from most speed shops.
To prime the oil pump all that is needed after the distributor is removed is a 1/4" socket that is 1/4" drive and a long extension. Use a drill motor that will run in a counterclockwise direction. Place the socket onto the oil pump's drive shaft and rotate for a few moments. When oil is seen coming out of the pushrods, the oil system is primed.
After 10 years the rubber valve stem seals and the front main seal's rubber portion has probably hardened. The valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the heads, but the front main seal will require removal of the timing cover because the early covers are designed so that the seal installs from the back side. The rear main seal may be OK because it was originally a rope type of seal which isn't rubber. Then again, it may have been updated with a rubber split seal.
As said, there's no need to change forums. The Mustang is based off of the early Falcon and Comet. The mechanicals are basically the same. I personally don't see a problem in helping anyone that has a Ford product.
Good luck
Restart 1963 Mustang 260ci after 10 year sit 
