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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 10-05-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1968 289 Carb Replacement?

You might've seen my thread in the Classic Talk forum about the fuel filter that broke off in my carb. Well, as my terribly luck would have it, the screw extractor also broke off inside the broken fuel filter! And I don't have a drill bit that will penetrate the hardened steel of the screw extractor to make a pilot hole to extract that whole mess. So...

Option 1: I go buy a special drill bit
Option 2: I buy a new carburetor

It's a bit of a stretch, but I wouldn't mind having a shiny new carb in my car Anyway, I'm wondering what people recommend as far as a new carburetor. I know next to nothing about them. Mine's a Holley 2-barrel, and I'm pretty sure it's a model 2300 (LIST-7508). But I have no idea what to look for if I were to buy a new one. Thanks in advance!
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Unread 10-05-2009   #2 (permalink)
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I'd just replace it with a 500 cfm 4 barrel. summit.com , youll get better performance and that one looks preety tired anyway.
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Unread 10-05-2009   #3 (permalink)
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I do know that if I get a 4 barrel that I'll need to get a new intake manifold too, since mine is a 2V, so I'm thinking I'd get another 2 barrel. But I don't know what CFMs are...
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Unread 10-05-2009   #4 (permalink)
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CFM's are cubic feet per minute...the flow rate of the carb. into the intake.(Fuel/Air mixture). Should be a number on drivers side of carb. either upper front or along lower base. This carb. was popular, and they are still availale. Several options online, or take it to your local parts store....best in my small town for this would be NAPA.
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Unread 10-05-2009   #5 (permalink)
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So is a higher number of CFMs better? Or is there an ideal number? I have a CarQuest/auto shop in town, so I could see what they have. Would you, macguyver198, suggest I just get a new carb of the same model (Holley 2300)? I also heard carbs may rebuilt and resold. Is this something I need to beware of? Thanks again, everyone.
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Unread 10-05-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Default 1968 289 Carb Replacement?

Hello macgeek,
Before you decide I would also like to mention, you could just replace the front bowl from another carb. perhaps someone has an old 2 barrel like yours I would look at e-bay. You don't need a running carb but the just the bowl.
Hell I will look in the garage tomorrow and I may have one.

Let me know what you think?

the carb does look a little tired but if $$ are tight, the front bowl is an option.

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Unread 10-05-2009   #7 (permalink)
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I would take a carbide dremel bit and cut a slot across that assembly. Remove the float bowl, soak it in water, heat the casting with a propane torch, re-attach it to the carb and stick a large slot head screwdriver in your new slot, grab the screwdriver with a pair of vice grips and back it out. You might have to heat and cool it a couple of times, but it will come.

Next time you screw in a filter, use some marine type grease on the threads.
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Unread 10-06-2009   #8 (permalink)
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My grandpa's coming over tomorrow with his tools and we're going to see if we can get the bit out. I'm just weighing my options in case we can't get it out or, God forbid, it gets uglier. Looks like a new carb of the same model will be around $300.

Print Dad, I didn't think of that. I'll consider that as an option as well. Thanks for the offer, let me know what you find

I'll definitely put some grease on the threads when I'm able to install the fuel filter.
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Unread 10-06-2009   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macgeek View Post
My grandpa's coming over tomorrow with his tools .....
Ah! That'll get 'er done. What would we do without Grandpas?
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Unread 10-06-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Default 1968 289 Carb Replacement?

Quote:
Originally Posted by macgeek View Post
My grandpa's coming over tomorrow with his tools and we're going to see if we can get the bit out. I'm just weighing my options in case we can't get it out or, God forbid, it gets uglier. Looks like a new carb of the same model will be around $300.

Print Dad, I didn't think of that. I'll consider that as an option as well. Thanks for the offer, let me know what you find

I'll definitely put some grease on the threads when I'm able to install the fuel filter.
Hello macgeek,
I looked in the garage and all I have found are 3 - -old 4 barrels. I will keep looking.

I bet grandpa has a few tricks up his sleeve.

I offer another idea if things get shakey.....Gently, carefully remove the front bowl. Watch the gasket.......... try to remove without breaking it. The you can probably punch out the broken bit using a center punch. Working from the inside of the bowl towards the outside. The see is he has a good solid extractor, (easy out) and see if you guys can get the piece to back out. Be careful neat the gas. If you have to... wash the bowl in water and then apply a little heat to the area of the broken piece. Be careful.
I am concerned about the gasket but I bet your grandpa will have patience. Watch what us old dudes can do. If you have trouble with the gasket be certain you use the proper silicone and only use a tiny tiny amount if you go that route.

Tell him I'm rooting for him to make us look good..... LOL.... Print Dad
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Unread 10-06-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Well I'll be darned, we still couldn't get it out. A titanium drill bit didn't make a dent in the broken easyout! We did take the bowl off, but there's no access from the back, unfortunately.

We're drilling around the easyout through the broken fuel filter to try to free it that way, though that carries the risk of ruining the carb threads. My grandpa took it home with him to work on it some more, and we'll see if he can get it out. We might try heating it up too.
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Unread 10-07-2009   #12 (permalink)
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That sucks! I've broken a few easyouts over the years ane they are a b*%ch to get out. Hopefully your Grandpa has some tricks up his sleeve! If he isn't able to get the easyout out, you could try Pony Carburetors, Inc. They rebuild carbs to stock specs and also sell parts. They may have the front bowl you need.

Carburetor, Carburetors, Carbs, Carb Parts. Pony Carburetors - Your Ford Carburetor Restoration and Part Sales Specialist

Also, you could try West Coast Cougars in Oregon. They have lots of old Cougars and parts. Maybe they can help.

West Coast Classic Cougar - Specializing in Classic '67 through '79 Cougars :: Welcome

There's always an old car junkyard. Maybe some forum members in your area can help you locate one.
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Unread 10-07-2009   #13 (permalink)
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Well my grandpa managed to get a hold of another bowl and gasket. So we cleaned that up really well, installed it, and put in a new fuel filter with no problems. However now the bowl overflows and gas leaks out of the bowl vent! I tried lowering the float level a lot, but that didn't change anything. I'm going to take a look at the float tomorrow and maybe try replacing it with the old float. We also tried replacing the needle valve with the old one and it didn't change things. It sounds like the float might not be closing the needle valve. Until I take a look at it tomorrow, any ideas what else could cause this? It was working fine before the bowl replacement. Thanks in advance.
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Unread 10-08-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Default 1968 289 Carb Replacement?

Hello macgeek,
Hang in there. This will get fixed. In my opinion you are on the right track.
The bowl overflowing indicates 1 of 3 possible things.
1. - The needle and seat and stuck
2. - Float has a hole or is filled with gas
3. - Float level is not set right

Should be pretty easy to check things out.

What I would do....
1. -Try once more to adjust the float level. To be sure you are doing it correct, let's review. Put a 5/8 wrench on nut B, place a screwdriver in lock screw. Try turning the wrench clockwise as you turn the lock screw counterclockwise. You just go a tiny bit, enough to take the force off the lock screw. I would remove the screw and washer.
Next I would unscrew the whole needle and seat assembly by backing it out of the carb. Spray the needle and seat with a carb cleaner or starting fluid.

Now I would install the needle and seat and screw it in to the carb so that just enough of the top threads are sticking out and you can still get the adjuster nut on.
be careful there are 2 thin washers. Put the locking screw back in and while holding the wrench on the nut, tighten the screw. Right now, your fuel should be pretty low in the bowl.

I You may or may not know how to check the bowl height so I will explain.
See the brass screw...sight screw.
1. - Shut off the motor,
2. - put a small container under the screw to catch gas
3. - Gently remove the screw. (CAUTION) there is a thin metal washer behind it and the screw is brass (soft threads)
4. - If gas pours out of the hole, the floats are too high or the needle and seat are sticking
5. -If the gas doesn't pour out, that is good. You want to push down on the fender and let it bounce up. (shake the car). If the fuel level is correct, the gas should just trickle from the hole when the car is rocked

Now I this doesn't fix the problem, I would take off the bowl.
Check to see if the float feels hollow. Shake it. you should be able to tell.
If it is great.....pull the needle and seat from your old bowl and put it in the new.

The repeat the process of adjusting the bowl height.

Remember, a pretty good starting point is to have about 1/8 of an inch of the needle and seat assembly above the surface of the carb.

You are getting close. Naturally, when the car starts....give your grandpa a big hug and thanks. Print Dad
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Unread 10-08-2009   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply Print Dad! I'm actually a step or two ahead of you.

I removed and thoroughly cleaned the needle valve assembly with carb cleaner before I put on the new bowl.

I already tried swapping the needle valve assembly with the old one, after cleaning up the old one, but nothing seemed to change.

I did try adjusting the float level, but it was always too high, spilling out of the sight screw hole. I'll definitely give that another shot tomorrow though.

My grandpa seems to think, and I'd have to agree with him, that the problem appears to be the float. I'll probably end up taking the bowl off again tomorrow, after trying the float level adjustment again, to take a look at the float. I may try replacing it with the old float.

My grandpa has been very helpful with my car project so far. He definitely deserves plenty of thanks
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